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broken water pump bolt questions


ant720

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Hey all,

 

When I was removing the water pump on my 720 one of the 12mm head bolts on the passenger side of the pump broke. It didn't just break, it broke right where the threads start about 2 inches inside the block.

 

My first thought was to drill and tap it, but I think it's too deep. My next thought is to install the new pump with one less bolt.. any ideas?

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Take a pic so we know which one it is.  I am never a fan of leaving something like this - its probably one of the ones that clamps the front cover as well.  

 

When you say 2" inside the block - I'm assuming you mean inside the front cover.  It may be that you could remove the front cover and the bolt would be protruding from the block - allowing you to grab it and remove with some vice grips.  

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Picture below. It is one of the ones in the red box. Cheetah, it looks like you're correct and it's one of bolts that holds the front cover. I would really love to not pull the front cover. How crucial is this bolt??

If I did cut corners here, my next idea would be to tap the front cover hole and run a shorter bolt to hold the water pump. 

 

IMG_0069.jpg

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Those two go through the cover into the block.

 

 

You could possibly be leaking coolant from 2 places because how the water flows right there.

 

 

Stick something in there to see how deep it is/if the bolt is sticking out past the block.

 

 

 

If that was mine, I would remove cover and fix properly. There is really no way to cheat with this one.

 

 

Not u less you are really good in blind holes with tiny drill bits.

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I think it will work without it. Use a good quality gasket and don't over tighten the others. No harm in trying it and see.

 

You should check the old pump for the missing alignment dowel on the right center in the photo. The mate is in the middle of your red rectangle.

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Assume battery disconnected and rad removed.

 

Set to TDC compression stroke #1

Remove alternator belt tensioner strap swing alt out of way.

Remove lower rad hose and heater hose from inlet and secure out of way. Or unbolt the lower rad inlet.

Take oil pump off, drop the drive spindle that is up inside, remove distributor.

Disconnect the hoses for the three hard lines running across the front of the timing cover and remove out of the way.

If you have power steering or air con, all the the belts and tensioners must be removed and out of the way.

Loosen remove crank bolt and front pulley. Tap behind the pulley with a large socket to slide it forward.

Remove the front bolts from the oil pan that go up into the timing cover and loosen several down each side so pan can drop enough to slide cover forward

Remove the two 10mm bolts that connect the head down into the top of the timing cover.

Remove the rest of the timing cover mounting bolts. Don't forget the one that was behind the oil pump.

 

When a bolt snaps loose, tighten slightly then loosen again working back and forth till out. Don't just turn until removed. These bolts are very long and will easily twist off and break if the threads gall. Turn them back and forth to clean the threads.

 

Be sure to replace the front timing cover oil seal while it is out. Grease the seal lips so it does not start up dry. Install pulley carefully to not dislodge the three woodruf keys.

 

The oil pan gasket may let go of the timing cover and be usable. If not get a replacement gasket and trim to fit. Use a dab of RTV there the three parts (pan, block and timing cover) meet.

 

Smear a light coat of RTV on top and bottom of head gasket to seal. It only has to contain oil mist and fumes. Put dab in corner where block and timing cover meet at the top.

 

Clean the block/cover gasket surfaces carefully but thoroughly. You do not need gasket dressings or sealers on them, they go on dry. Note that there are two alignment dowels between the block and the front cover.

 

When the oil pump/distributor spindle is installed it should look like this...

 

8Gj0vYy.jpg

 

This is what it should look like wen removed also. If you get this right the distributor will go in exactly as it was removed.

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  • 1 month later...

Everyone just twists the bolt when removing; steel bolts in aluminum are chemically welded in by the aluminum oxide that accumulates between the two metals. When I was working in a transport shop the mechanic and I spent the best part of an hour beating on alternative sides of a tire, hitting the rubber only, to get one of those friggin' pretty aluminum rims off a cast iron hub.

 

Get a longer wrench that fits the bolt, put a little pressure on the wrench and using a small hammer tap the wrench. Tap to the tighten first, then the other way- continue back and forth until you can remove the bolt. When you replace it Nevr-Seez the snot out of it.

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