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Which LSD path should I take for my 510


KamakSun

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Hello fellow Ratters,

 

The only items left on my non body resto check list is to go through the rear.  I plan on doing all the bushings and having the rear shocks rebuilt but I'm stuck on which route to go for an LSD.  

1. Has anyone tried one of those traction concepts lsd conversions or similar brand?  Was it a difficult install? Would you do it again?

2. Is the R180 upgrade that much better than the R160 conversion?  Does it justify the extra cash?

 

I'm running a closed chamber l20b with Mikunis.  The transmission is a 4 speed with a 240z flywheel (so I was told).  13x7 libres with 4runner brakes.  I'm trying to keep it period correct (early 80s), so please keep that in mind  :thumbup:

 

Thanks all!

 

Kamaksun

 

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So first question is how are you using the car?

 

I can't speak to the R160 vs R180 conversion other than dependent on the power / torque output you'd likely want the stouter unit.

 

If the traction concepts is one of those low bucks clamping force things, skip it and by a proper LSD, trust me I wasn't thrilled about spend $1300 for the H190 LSD for my 1200 but for my race car the performance is worth it.

 

Edit; for a street car the limited slip may well be pointless. Below a certain power level the only time you'll notice is when try to take off from a stop. Realistically how often do we get to roar off at 4000 rpms in a road car.

 

My personal view has always been either open or proper limited slip, wanna be limited slips & lockers do more harm than good, they're only benefit is they are cheap and they offer an improvement from a standing start over an open diff.

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TCXPOCUS1-2.jpg
 
Run, don't walk, away from this abortion as fast as your feet will take you. All this does is jam the two side gears into the differential case hard enough to provide drive force. This is NOT what the gears were designed for. Traction Concepts is just a re-badged Phantom Grip from a decade ago...
 
maxresdefault.jpg

There's nothing new under the sun and this is classic 'old wine in new bottles' and every year a new round of gullible suckers learn to drive. (no offense I just hate seeing people flim-flammed out of money) If wanting LSD for the 510 sedan find a '90 Subaru H-165 LSD diff.

 

LSD37.jpg

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Find one of the old subi R160 clutch LSD's.  They are going up in price but worth every penny!  The R160 LSD is super strong since it doesn't have any spider gears.  Depend on your build you might want to find some lower gears.  I went from 3.7 to 4.44's.  So much better on the track!!!  

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find a early R160 clutch type and use the 510 stubs.  one day install.

I had a extra I bought for 200 and later sold for 400 as I wasn't using it. however THEY ARE 3.70 gear ratio good for the Hiway.

 

I only like tthem when I turn the wheel hard and hit the gas so I can spin the car around.

Takeoffs of better at a light when wet.

The Cool factor of telling somebody you have one is the MONEY SHOT of it really. I got a LSD. Oh wow your so cool.

 

 

If you have a high power car it might make driving harder if one don't know how to drive(spin car around)

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Edit; for a street car the limited slip may well be pointless. Below a certain power level the only time you'll notice is when try to take off from a stop. Realistically how often do we get to roar off at 4000 rpms in a road car.

 

 

Literally every single stoplight/sign with a turn, even a little too much throttle with an L19 (yes, 19) LOL

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Had my 3.7 LSD regeared to 4.11:1 for my L19, and it has saved my ass on more than one occasion between snow and mud. My car isnt a garage queen/fair weather car. Its been through some shit lol and sidestepping the car on takeoff is always fun. They are more useful than just "bling" on a street car. 

 

Now I have a VG in the works... that will still have the 4.11 LSD... yikes!

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I'm big on the AP Racing Surtrac LSDs that came in the older WRX, typically with the 4.4 gear set. 

 

Always on eBay for less than $300, or $200 more if still in housing (easy way to do one)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-STI-R160-Rear-4-44-Differential-Suretrac-LSD/122941970297?epid=2214989583&hash=item1c9fe99779:g:hwkAAOSwjyhaR-CV&vxp=mtr

 

Easy to mod 510 output shafts to work with the Sube LSD, just machine snap ring grove, and plug the through bolt hole.

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I'm big on the AP Racing Surtrac LSDs that came in the older WRX, typically with the 4.4 gear set. 

 

Always on eBay for less than $300, or $200 more if still in housing (easy way to do one)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-STI-R160-Rear-4-44-Differential-Suretrac-LSD/122941970297?epid=2214989583&hash=item1c9fe99779:g:hwkAAOSwjyhaR-CV&vxp=mtr

 

Easy to mod 510 output shafts to work with the Sube LSD, just machine snap ring grove, and plug the through bolt hole.

 

 

 

 

The splines are the same 

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Subaru R160 CLSD will usually set you back somewhere in the $500 realm. They are 3.7:1 which may be good if you have short tires on your 13” wheels. How you’ll be using the car is a factor. If it’s just a putt putt car for the city, then $500 could be spent on something more useful, but it doesn’t seem like you’ll spend much time on the highway if you’re using a 4 speed, so the tall ratio might be a negative.

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The splines are the same 

 

Was that a question ?

If so, yes they are.

 

In fact, the people doing CV joint conversions on a dime should look at using the Sube LSD, and their output shafts, and inner CV joints.

That would only leave the outboard stub shaft and joint to have to convert/adapt.

And the way Subaru barrowed heavily from Nissan, the outer stub shaft should be looked at, to see if it can be used in the dime swing arm bearings.

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The R-160 is/was made by Fuji Heavy Industries and at one time was part owned by Subaru/Nissan Toyota and others. JATCO is another company that makes automatic transmissions that are found in these vehicles with the only difference being the bolt up patterns. Would the Big Three be this sensible? Hardly. Although the first year Pontiac GTO did use a FoMoCo three speed transmission.

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Kamak, the Subi complete unit will bolt right in, it just doesn't have a hole drilled in the casting on the left side for the parking brake stuff.

Simple to drill.

Datsun shafts just need the through hole plugged, and snap ring groves machined in them, and they will pop right in to the Subi diff.

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