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Need help with ka24e swap!


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#1 chickenbuddy

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Posted 12 February 2018 - 05:17 PM

Hello, thank you for reading.

I have Ben slowly working on a single can ka swap into my 720. I had it running a few weeks ago, everything was ok except the idle was a little bit shifty 900+\-100rpm. I took it for a maiden voyage to start breaking in the motor. 30 min drive on my way back home it died, I thought I ran out of gas. Got gas, manages to fire it up but it would just barely idle regardless of the throttle input. :/ I had it towed home that night.

I finally got around to working on it today. Still can't get it to start. Confused, I started troubleshooting. Fuel, check, nice spray pattern/ injector pulse, 42 psi from pump. Firing order 1342 CCW. Strong spark check, although the plugs were soaked in fuel. Checked cam and crank timing, and then when I got to the disteibutor, I noticed that in the furthest left (ccw) position possible it was a few degrees shy(retarted) from cyl#1 with motor at tdc#1 compression stroke. So I figured I will have to drain the oil and pull the oil pump to reset the dizzy position.

I decided to test my findings, so I pulled the bolts out of distributor clamp to allow it for further adjustment and turned it a few more degrees cw, to line up with #1 plug. It started easily but idled poorly (misfire?) and it was impossible to rev up past 2k exhaust smelled like fuel. I'm getting really crazy with this swap, I'm mostly confused and can't figure it out.

What could change my timing this much? Anything to look out for ?

Any help greatly appreciated.

#2 flatcat19

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Posted 12 February 2018 - 08:07 PM

How long will it hold 42psi? Does it bleed off?

Do you have any codes in the ECM?

You can't hang if your nuts haven't dropped...it's physics


#3 chickenbuddy

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Posted 13 February 2018 - 12:44 AM

Will check leak time tomorrow , thanks for the tip.

Only code shown is 55, which is no fault detected I believe.

#4 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 13 February 2018 - 07:29 AM

Wiring could cause the timing to go out of whack. The TPS, MAF, knock sensor and temp switch all work together to adjust fuel and spark. If the wiring isn't correct, or if something was accidentally deleted/misrouted during the wiring mods, it could do exactly what you're describing.

 

Is the IAC clean and functioning?

 

Did you run the motor before you did the swap?



#5 nl320what

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Posted 14 February 2018 - 07:34 AM

I second the timing chain jumped a couple teeth or more since you said you had to drive to break in the motor..... possibly the chain wasnt installed properly, wrong chain length, or chain tensioner didnt pressurize the slack out of it.

 

I vote to pull timing cover off and verify.

 

Side Note: get it running and sell it off to install a V8 swap :)


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#6 flatcat19

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Posted 14 February 2018 - 07:52 AM

Shouldn't need to remove timing cover to verify chain is installed properly.

Remove valve cover. Turn to TDC indicator on pulley/cover; verify cam lines up to timing mark on top.

You can't hang if your nuts haven't dropped...it's physics