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510 Front Sump anti-sway bar


reza

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I've been searching for about a month on where to find a sway bar for a Datsun 510 with a Ka swap. It is a KA24e with front sump and flipped cross member. I just checked at Futofab,  Is there any other manufacturers? Out of all the old threads I've pulled up, it seems no other company makes them any more.. Are there any junkyard swaps available? 

My 510 is low so the trick I've seen where people make a platform for the bar to hang down lower is not an option. I have been driving without a bar for the last 2 years, its a goal of mine to improve the cars suspension before spring, with this being the major piece missing. 

Pictures because............obviously they are needed on Ratsun.

r: 

Edit- spaced the Date- I see its past jan 2018 :)


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If I have no alternatives I will buy from futofab, Although, I feel like 265 + shipping is a rough price to pay for a bar. are there are other options, or companies making this that I could price check?

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Me and Sam have been working on one.  All the prototypes sucked so we've changed the design again.  It's going to be a straight bar that goes under the front frame rail, the splined type.  It will work with low cars unlike all the others.  We don't know when it's going to be ready though.... :(  

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Me and Sam have been working on one.  All the prototypes sucked so we've changed the design again.  It's going to be a straight bar that goes under the front frame rail, the splined type.  It will work with low cars unlike all the others.  We don't know when it's going to be ready though.... :(

Very cool to know you are making an alternative.  

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Me and Sam have been working on one.  All the prototypes sucked so we've changed the design again.  It's going to be a straight bar that goes under the front frame rail, the splined type.  It will work with low cars unlike all the others.  We don't know when it's going to be ready though.... :(

What are your thoughts on the orange line bar from futofab, does it not work with lowered cars? 

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I used a Speedway engineering sway bar on my son's 510 with KA swap.

 

1speedway.com, It took some fabrication but no welding.

Will try to dig up some pictures but don't count on it. Saw this type of straight hollow bar on a 510 with an FJ20. Someone should know about it.

They make sway bars for race cars including NASCAR. Bars are hollow and thickness varies to change strength.

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I think $265 is a very good price for a custom bar...

My Cressida is no where near as old as a dime, and I still had to pay more than that for a used aftermarket front bar.

 

And the speedway bar is a definite option, but probably more after you get done buying all the parts.

Although, the ability to change roll stiffness once you fabricated everything is a BIG advantage for tuning if you ever track the car.

I buy a lot of suspension parts from Speedway.

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I think $265 is a very good price for a custom bar...

My Cressida is no where near as old as a dime, and I still had to pay more than that for a used aftermarket front bar.

 

And the speedway bar is a definite option, but probably more after you get done buying all the parts.

Although, the ability to change roll stiffness once you fabricated everything is a BIG advantage for tuning if you ever track the car.

I buy a lot of suspension parts from Speedway.

Love cressidas, also have a MX32. See, I don't consider it a custom bar, they are made in batches and at that point become a production product. when I start looking at prices for other production bars I think that the 265 plus shipping looks high but I've never bought a aftermarket bar before. So I don't really know. I'll buy the bar if it works with a lowered vehicle, can't blame a guy for trying to find a better price or company producing them. 

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I used a Speedway engineering sway bar on my son's 510 with KA swap.

 

1speedway.com, It took some fabrication but no welding.

Will try to dig up some pictures but don't count on it. Saw this type of straight hollow bar on a 510 with an FJ20. Someone should know about it.

They make sway bars for race cars including NASCAR. Bars are hollow and thickness varies to change strength.

Thanks, I'll search for what you are talking about. 

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FutoFab's Front sump 510 sway bars are back in stock. They are $265 +S&H.

 

We are getting back orders shipped out today and new orders will ship within 24 hrs of purchase.

 

These are 1 1/8" diameter bars and use the stock mounting location. They require the crossmember be modified (flipped) as the offset in the bar fits behind the oil pan sump and in front of the modified crossmember. 

 

They have been successfully used on lowered cars, but as with all modifications, you may or may not have the correct combination of parts to work properly together. 

 

The only way to assure fit would be to 1) build your own parts, 2) build around the parts you buy or 3) to buy a complete package where all components are designed to work with each other. 

 

Here is a portion of the back order bars going out today.

27544740_944291485729318_120270727495765

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FutoFab's Front sump 510 sway bars are back in stock. They are $265 +S&H.

 

We are getting back orders shipped out today and new orders will ship within 24 hrs of purchase.

 

These are 1 1/8" diameter bars and use the stock mounting location. They require the crossmember be modified (flipped) as the offset in the bar fits behind the oil pan sump and in front of the modified crossmember. 

 

They have been successfully used on lowered cars, but as with all modifications, you may or may not have the correct combination of parts to work properly together. 

 

The only way to assure fit would be to 1) build your own parts, 2) build around the parts you buy or 3) to buy a complete package where all components are designed to work with each other. 

 

Here is a portion of the back order bars going out today.

27544740_944291485729318_120270727495765

 

 

 

 

 

Dave how do people fit them on lowered cars?  To make it work on my car I mounted my TC rod to the bottom of my control arm and spaced it down quite a bit.  It ended up 2" lower then it would be if it was mounted on top of the LCA. I also made custom clamps and cut down the bushing to pull the bar up.  Although I do have the super giant T3 TC rod (came no a parts car I bought)  Any sway bar that mounts in the stock location is going to have this issue.  That's my guess why the BRE team went under everything.  There just isn't enough room.  I'm just trying to be informative not saying anything bad, you make awesome parts.  I know how the internet can make things come off.  Me and Carter have a different definition of "low" as do most people.  My car to me isn't low.  Dillon on the other had.  

 

 

Dillon's car is low,  14" wheels with rubber band tires.  Like 1" of ground clearance.   

 

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My car with 195 50 15's not nearly as low with much more suspension travel. 

 

 

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Much better after the spacer

 

 

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I've bought FutoFab parts and been very impressed.  I've also watched IceHouse design his shit on here.  You can't go wrong.  Get the FutoFab because the price is right, and get IceHouse to make you one when he's got it worked out.  Watching closely, thank you for this thread and the great responses.  

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Dave how do people fit them on lowered cars?  ... Me and Carter have a different definition of "low" as do most people.  

 

Low is as you suggest, a subjective dimension. I have used a standard configuration oversize bar on my hillclimb car without any issues. It is set-up with shortened struts (roughly 2") and runs old Datsun Comp road race rear springs. I would say it is 2-3" lower than stock. 

 

The images you posted show a car much lower than what I have personally run, so what has worked for me may not work as well for others with out a work around like you have done. 

 

This is the problem with questions like "Will it work on a lowered car?" Well yes it does on my lowered car, but if you are looking to run lower than what my car is at there may be issues such as you've pointed out and adjusted for. 

 

The other part of this issue is we generally run on 15" or larger wheels, which pushes the tire even higher into the wheel opening to maintain a lowered ride height. This makes the condition worse, especially when the cars were designed around 5.60x13 bias ply tires.

 

I also have looked at placing the bar more forward (like under the radiator support). I haven't done all the math, but the bar diameter will need to be significantly larger than our 1.125" diameter due to the increased arm length.

 

Maybe one of Speedway Engineering's  1 1/4" hollow bars would work, but I think you would need to bump up to their 1 3/4" NASCAR sway bars to have enough spring rate.

 

If folks think $265 is too much, I'm not sure what they would think of the Speedway set-up. The Speedway 1 1/4" bar and arms is over $300 and that is w/o any hardware or mounts. 

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Low is as you suggest, a subjective dimension. I have used a standard configuration oversize bar on my hillclimb car without any issues. It is set-up with shortened struts (roughly 2") and runs old Datsun Comp road race rear springs. I would say it is 2-3" lower than stock. 

 

The images you posted show a car much lower than what I have personally run, so what has worked for me may not work as well for others with out a work around like you have done. 

 

This is the problem with questions like "Will it work on a lowered car?" Well yes it does on my lowered car, but if you are looking to run lower than what my car is at there may be issues such as you've pointed out and adjusted for. 

 

The other part of this issue is we generally run on 15" or larger wheels, which pushes the tire even higher into the wheel opening to maintain a lowered ride height. This makes the condition worse, especially when the cars were designed around 5.60x13 bias ply tires.

 

I also have looked at placing the bar more forward (like under the radiator support). I haven't done all the math, but the bar diameter will need to be significantly larger than our 1.125" diameter due to the increased arm length.

 

Maybe one of Speedway Engineering's  1 1/4" hollow bars would work, but I think you would need to bump up to their 1 3/4" NASCAR sway bars to have enough spring rate.

 

If folks think $265 is too much, I'm not sure what they would think of the Speedway set-up. The Speedway 1 1/4" bar and arms is over $300 and that is w/o any hardware or mounts. 

 

 

Defiantly subjective, Dillon (rusty car photoed above) would say his car is "kinda low"  

 

 

People complain no matter what the price is.  

 

 

We are working on a weld in under the front core support right now.  Yeah it's gotta be a big boy, they make hollow bars which will at least help the weight.   

 

 

 

 

Jeff,

You mention that BRE ran their sway bar below the TC rods as a solution. 

 

These are still available thru DP Racing. I have one on my newest road race 510 (it came with it). The price on these are $465 but they will not work with a front sump engine.

 

 

We prototyped going under a few different ways.  Just didn't pan out, since it can't go straight through you have to worry about the swoop it will now make.  Then different ride heights become an issue.  

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If folks think $265 is too much, I'm not sure what they would think of the Speedway set-up. The Speedway 1 1/4" bar and arms is over $300 and that is w/o any hardware or mounts. 

I don't know if 265 plus shipping is a good or bad deal, that's why I'm shopping around. when I'm frantically throwing money at my car it's nice to be able to save here and there. I was hoping there was a junkyard option that I didn't know about or a competitor that offered a similar bar for a lesser price. I ended up buying a used front sump futofab bar from a member on this forum, I'll post photos of fitment once it arrives. 

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Here it is, 

My car is too low for this to be a bolt in swap, I'll have to modify the location of the tc rod as stated by icehouse.  I could adjust my height, idk, I don't really think its slammed, just slightly lowered. I'll add the 1'' bump steer spacers as well. 

The orangeline bar is a quality piece, I ended up getting a slightly used one from a member on here. I would however suggest to anyone who buys this to toss the provided bushing brackets or realize they will need modification to work. they are way too tight a fit for the stock mounting locations. I forced them to fit but it required a hammer and a lot of swearing, definitely wasn't the right way to go about it. 
 

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The cure for the trouble mounting the bushings it to use Allen key cap screws instead of standard hex bolts to mount the brackets. Smaller head makes it much easier to get in there.

 

Brock  

I agree that would help to get them tight, the problem I was having was actually getting the threads to line up.  

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JUST finished installing one of Futofab's CA/SR front sump sway bars (haven't even washed my hands yet!!), and it is killer!  Yes, I had to shave off one little corner of the U bracket to clear the subframe, ground a "flat" on one side of the flat washers so they would snug up closer to the inside/narrowest part of the mounting holes, AND we used the allen head cap bolts as suggested above ^^.  The bolt holes were a hair too far spread apart once pushed over the urethane mounting bushing, so I installed the REAR bolt first, then gave the front edge of the bracket a good hard whack to pinch it closed a l'il more, and then installed the FRONT bolts.  These same MINOR fitment issues have been around since the big sway bars of the 70's-80's, had the same MINOR fitment issues years ago with an ADDCO sway bar on my MG, and it just doesn't make monetary sense for the sway bar manufacturers to design & manufacture a different bracket for the classic import cars.  Since this car is NOT slammed in the weeds, we have absolutely no clearance issues with the tension rods......about an inch apart.  Can't wait for some Rocky Mountain road carving & track day use!!  :thumbup:

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