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All right guys I dun goofed

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#81 Dirtyowlnumber4


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Posted 13 February 2018 - 08:26 PM

if the speed screw is the idle mixture screw i try to keep it about 1 turn out. otherwise not sure.

got new spark plugs today. it has gone from being inconsistently broken to consistently broken. which is good.

instead of either not starting at all or running perfectly it will now start every time and idle really shittily for a few seconds then die. at least it made up its mind and i know it needs a stronger spark. ill try and get it one here

#82 DIY 1985

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Posted 14 February 2018 - 05:27 AM

The idle speed screw is not the idle mix screw.  The mix screw is on the corner of the base of the carb.  The speed screw is what the throttle shaft rests on during idle.  It should be between 1 and 1.5 turns in after it touches the throttle.


When your motor is cold, the choke button should be all the way out, then, after starting the motor, the butterfly should open partly, you may have to just slightly push in on the choke button to make that happen.

#83 Dirtyowlnumber4


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Posted 14 February 2018 - 10:16 AM

ah the speed screw is all the out. still idles too high, problem with my throttle. choke still wont work, can't give it any gas while starting or after it starts.

#84 datzenmike



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Posted 14 February 2018 - 05:25 PM

All your symptoms can be explained by not having a choke.

Two weeks ago. Engine will run like shit when cold if the choke not working, if at all.
Do all trouble shooting on a warm engine, 20-30 min of running.
Make damn sure that EGR is SEALED TIGHT. Any air leak will make tuning the carb a bitch.
Idle mix screw should be out 1.5 turns approximately. In less than one turn the jet is too big. Out more than 2 turns it's too small.
 Read what you posted about every time you seal up the EGR it runs better....

All right so this morning I went out, took off my egr cover and put it back on, and the car is a lot better. started normally, can idle for like 10 minutes and I took it on a 10 mile drive, still broken but it only had to stop once.
I was recording when I first tried to start it in the morning, and I stood there recording it for like 10 minutes waiting for it to die and eventually it did. That dying its doing in the end is what it will do on the road when it stops working and exlodes and whatnot.

I wasn't able to pour gas down the carb to see if it would fire because it is starting right up today.
It is also difficult to ignore the fact that every time I try to seal that egr hole better it starts working better. Doesn't make any sense since I've run it for a decent amount of time with no over and then for a while with a really shoddy cover and it didn't make a difference. But it is hella sealed right now if not a little rigged and stuffs still broken though. Maybe indicates something..?
The EGR wouldn't fit back on with the weber. In the pic on their website it looked like they were gonna send me a little seal for it but they didn't, so if anyone knows where to get one of those that would be cool.

The video shows it running pretty much normally so everything is working. I can stress enough how important a sealed up EGR is. You cannot have ANY vacuum leak. That tin cover isn't going to cut it.

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