Jump to content


Photo
* * * * * 1 votes

All right guys I dun goofed


  • Please log in to reply
84 replies to this topic

#61 DIY 1985

DIY 1985

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 87 posts
  • Location:Santa Fe, New Mexico
  • Cars:'75 Toyota FJ-40, '85 Nissan 720 rwd

Posted 08 February 2018 - 12:00 PM

How does you oil dipstick seal, as it fits in its tube, look? The crankcase needs to be closed for intake vacuum at this location.

Perhaps oil is getting in from above the cylinder rings?

#62 KELMO

KELMO

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,171 posts
  • Location:Edgewood NM
  • Cars:71 Goon, 72 1200 coupe x 2, 69 F250 72 510 4DR Sedan 2003 Maxima 2014 Frontier 2012 Xterra

Posted 08 February 2018 - 03:26 PM

NGK plugs 22401-W8915 (Nissan part #)

BP5ES applies to the A14 motor.

 

Where you have the electrical cover over the EGR port....have you sealed that or put a gasket in there?


NISMO: Nissan Impresses Sluts More Often
"Well, primer gray IS a color..." (quote: Kelmo's wife)

#63 datzenmike

datzenmike

    KING RAT

  • User Administrator
  • 72,245 posts
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 08 February 2018 - 05:33 PM

How does you oil dipstick seal, as it fits in its tube, look? The crankcase needs to be closed for intake vacuum at this location.

Perhaps oil is getting in from above the cylinder rings?

 

It should be sealed so that any blow-by doesn't push any oil fog out and make a mess or smell. The crankcase isn't sealed anyway as there is a breather pipe from the valve cover to the air filter and there is the crankcase breather that connects to the PCV valve in the intake.


Posted Image

#64 Dirtyowlnumber4

Dirtyowlnumber4

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 137 posts
  • Location:Silver City NM
  • Cars:Chevrolet S10, Cadillac DeVille, Datsun B210, VW Super Beetle

Posted 08 February 2018 - 07:03 PM

How does you oil dipstick seal, as it fits in its tube, look? The crankcase needs to be closed for intake vacuum at this location.

Perhaps oil is getting in from above the cylinder rings?

Could be doing, the valves are old. I'll look at em. Not really sure how oil flows around an engine. All I know is that the rings are brand new and professionally installed so I dont think its coming from the bottom.

 

NGK plugs 22401-W8915 (Nissan part #)

BP5ES applies to the A14 motor.

 

Where you have the electrical cover over the EGR port....have you sealed that or put a gasket in there?

Yeah I don't have high temp gasket so I made a gasket from normal gasket material and wrapped it in tin foil it seems to be faring all right.



#65 DIY 1985

DIY 1985

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 87 posts
  • Location:Santa Fe, New Mexico
  • Cars:'75 Toyota FJ-40, '85 Nissan 720 rwd

Posted 09 February 2018 - 11:54 AM

Under light throttle conditions, the PCV is closed to closed. It allows manifold vacuum to clear out bad gasses from the below the pinstons. If it is stuck open, prehaps because of intake backfire, it will possibly drink crankcase oil. You could probably inspect it's hose. The Z24 pcv was probably cleanable, but it costs less than a can of carb cleaner. It being stuck open is a kind of vacuum leak.

#66 datzenmike

datzenmike

    KING RAT

  • User Administrator
  • 72,245 posts
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 09 February 2018 - 02:13 PM

PCV works (is open) at all times there is vacuum. Technically a vacuum leak but the carb system is designed to allow for this. Any small leak can be tuned out by the idle mixture and idle speed screws. If curious, remove the PCV and shake it. The valve is held closed by a very weak spring. If it rattles it's presumed good. Suck on the manifold (vacuum) side and air should pass, blow into it and it should not pass air. 

 

The problem with it being open all the time, (stuck) is that it can't prevent a back fire flame going back down the rubber hose to the block vent and igniting any fumes there. Somewhat unlikely, but I did see a stalled and badly flooded early '60s car explode when I was a kid. It backfired and blew the valve cover and oil pan almost off. It's a one way valve.


Posted Image

#67 Dirtyowlnumber4

Dirtyowlnumber4

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 137 posts
  • Location:Silver City NM
  • Cars:Chevrolet S10, Cadillac DeVille, Datsun B210, VW Super Beetle

Posted 09 February 2018 - 05:18 PM

All right I'll have a look at that.

 

Took off the head to see if the valves were screwy but besides a little oil in the exhaust valves everything looked fine.

 

I found that the exhaust hookup to the EGR was rusted away so there is just a hole in the bottom of it I corked it we'll see how that holds up.

 

lBkMFO3.jpg?1

 

Kp74LMI.jpg

 

EAsHuDs.jpg

 

3cmse5Y.jpg

 

I don't know what this thing is I thought it was supposed to be flat but turns out under all the carbon buildup there are ridges fancy that.

 

6wdIbOL.jpg



#68 DIY 1985

DIY 1985

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 87 posts
  • Location:Santa Fe, New Mexico
  • Cars:'75 Toyota FJ-40, '85 Nissan 720 rwd

Posted 09 February 2018 - 05:28 PM

In a pinch I'd, reach for aluminum foil.  IMO, if you were to fab up a EGR delete plate, you could probably get a totally flat surface from a medium to thick aluminum frying pan, check for flatness using a straight-edge .  Use a jig saw for the profile, and drill clearance holes starting with a center punch.  I use a candle, or bees wax to keep cutting tools from loading-up with sap or soft metals.  If the EGR delete-plate is kinda thick, it will resist changing shape when tightened or exposed to temperature changes. 

 

When time comes, just send it with the rest of the intake manifold to the bead blaster, then get them powder coated.



#69 datzenmike

datzenmike

    KING RAT

  • User Administrator
  • 72,245 posts
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 09 February 2018 - 06:39 PM

6wdIbOL.jpg

 

This is pinched between the intake and the exhaust manifolds and MUST be sealed tightly or you will have a vacuum leak in the intake. It is heated from below by exhaust gasses and helps evaporate fuel dumped in from above by the carburetor.

 

 

 

 

EGR uses exhaust. Exhaust has almost no free oxygen in it, basically it's inert and just takes up space in the cylinder. If the hose from the exhaust is rusted away outside air will get sucked in. Outside air contains 20% oxygen and will dilute and lean out fuel mixture whenever the EGR valve is activated. So, either fix that exhaust tube and run the EGR, or disconnect the EGR hose from the carb. This will deactivate it. You can remove the EGR valve but why? if deactivated it's doing nothing and removal means making a block off plate and gasket that may leak. Better to simply leave alone.


Posted Image

#70 DIY 1985

DIY 1985

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 87 posts
  • Location:Santa Fe, New Mexico
  • Cars:'75 Toyota FJ-40, '85 Nissan 720 rwd

Posted 10 February 2018 - 07:19 AM

His reasoning behind the EGR delete was for carb clearance.

#71 datzenmike

datzenmike

    KING RAT

  • User Administrator
  • 72,245 posts
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 10 February 2018 - 07:39 AM

Then it must be completely sealed. I removed mine when I got rid of the co-joined intake and exhaust on my L20B. I switched to a '79 intake.
 
This...
CFOY8X4.jpg
 
To this...
wPXiRYX.jpg


Same intake. Some grinding, some JB weld, some tapping to get the PCV valve working. There's no gasket to leak or bolts to come loose.


Posted Image

#72 Dirtyowlnumber4

Dirtyowlnumber4

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 137 posts
  • Location:Silver City NM
  • Cars:Chevrolet S10, Cadillac DeVille, Datsun B210, VW Super Beetle

Posted 10 February 2018 - 02:46 PM

All right put the engine back together nothing changed wasn't expecting it too because I didn't really change anything.

 

Starting to suspect it's an ignition problem I tightened up the boots on the dizzy to try and get better contact and it's been idling pretty happily for a few minutes now. Just seems like any excess amount of fuel overwhelms it and floods it for a while. I'll work on getting an electronic system set up before I complain anymore probably.

 

Checked the pcv seemed alright it was letting a little air through when it was closed but not much at all. Wouldn't want my car to explode.

 

I was thinking of just welding a cover to the top and bottom of the egr but don't have a shop to do it in unfortunately.



#73 flatcat19

flatcat19

    Back in Black

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 20,697 posts
  • Location:Tri-Cities, WA/PDX
  • Cars:Smaller. Better. Slower. Lower.

Posted 10 February 2018 - 04:55 PM

Not enough spark? Weak/fouled plugs?
Think fuel? Fix ignition. Vice versa.


You can't hang if your nuts haven't dropped...it's physics


#74 DIY 1985

DIY 1985

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 87 posts
  • Location:Santa Fe, New Mexico
  • Cars:'75 Toyota FJ-40, '85 Nissan 720 rwd

Posted 10 February 2018 - 05:51 PM

Welding cast materials is sketchy. Cast metal lacks the tensile quality that allows for the expansion and contraction of the localized melting. It probably could be done, but, are you sure that the plate that you made isn't functioning. They may give you second rate service if you took your ride in to the mechanic with that plate, but I bet that it mostly functions.

What are your main jet sizes? Air correctors? Idle jets? Was it an A14 kit? Maybe your are carbon fouling plugs with too much fuel causing weak spark, as suggested by the inability to cold choke?

#75 Dirtyowlnumber4

Dirtyowlnumber4

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 137 posts
  • Location:Silver City NM
  • Cars:Chevrolet S10, Cadillac DeVille, Datsun B210, VW Super Beetle

Posted 11 February 2018 - 12:42 AM

Yeah seems like the spark is as strong as it was originally still not sure why it stopped functioning so abruptly. Check this out;

 

-Giving the car a lot of gas it will hardly ever die

 

-Idling it will die in a few minutes

 

-If I am driving and I take my foot off the gas but leave the car in gear (like engine breaking I guess) that will make it explode then die in a few seconds.

 

Getting new plugs we'll see how that goes over

 

I think my plate is good but as I discovered the hole in the bottom of the EGR port is open. I corked it. with a cork. I'll keep my eye out for a big ol bolt I can screw in there

 

Don't know what hoodickeys are what I'll figure it out. Don't have calipers either I have a ruler though. Someone told me I need high altitude jets. I believe it was an a14 kit https://www.piercema...uct_p/K624.html



#76 DIY 1985

DIY 1985

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 87 posts
  • Location:Santa Fe, New Mexico
  • Cars:'75 Toyota FJ-40, '85 Nissan 720 rwd

Posted 11 February 2018 - 06:11 AM

Giving it a lot of throttle is different than giving it a lot of gas.  Lots of throttle (gas pedal, or idle speed screw) lets air into the motor, but it allows vacuum to engage 'circuits' or different paths of air/fuel mix.  If your plugs are blackened with suit/carbon and they are not straw colored or whitish, you need more oxygen.  My Z24 gets oil on one cylinder plug, but the wet oil burns down to a bit of a dry deposit that I deal with as regular maintenance. 

 

Don't install new plugs if they are merely carbon fouled.  You can gently clean the electrodes, just expose some fresh metal on opposing  sides of the electrode with a bit of fine grit sandpaper or Scotch Brite.  Make sure that the gap is correct.  It might take you a while to lean-out the mix and you will clean the plug every time you 'read the plug' and it is dirty.

 

We need some data here.  Where the accelerator linkage is bolted on to is the shaft for the primary barrel on the DGV, on that side, what size (numbers printed) are on the idle jet (the one accessible without disassembly), what is the main jet (the one on the floor of the bowl), what is the air corrector?  What is correspondingly installed on the other barrel of the carb?  How many turns in for the idle speed screws and the idle mix screw?  You may not want to reinstall the cotter pin that holds the choke linkage every time you remove the top of the carb, pull the top of the carb straight up so you don't damage the float.  Careful with gas spilling near a hot exhaust manifold.

 

I don't know that a cork is necessary in your manifold.  I'm still confused exactly how exhaust is routed into the intake on that motor, someone please chime in here.  

 

You need six parts.  Two nuts for the EGR studs, two washers, a gasket, and a plate (I'd fabricate the plate and improvise with the gasket, but I'm poor, talented, and inspired) 



#77 datzenmike

datzenmike

    KING RAT

  • User Administrator
  • 72,245 posts
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 11 February 2018 - 07:58 AM

Cork is no good. A single backfire can pop it back out.
 

Then it must be completely sealed.....



Exhaust Gas Recirculation is the small measured addition of inert (oxygen poor) exhaust with the air and fuel going into the combustion chamber. Basically it just takes up space and lowers the combustion chamber temperatures. It only happens at part throttle and NOT at idle or full throttle or if the engine is cold. Some engines add up to 20% EGR under tightly controlled conditions.

 

There will be a finger sized pipe from the exhaust manifold to the ERG valve which is mounted on the intake, usually near the carb base so all cylinders get equal amounts. The EGR is just a valve opened by a ported vacuum signal from the carb above idle and not present at full throttle that (again) usually passes through a temperature valve that only opens when the engine is warmed up. Later models had a BPT back pressure transducer which modified the vacuum signal using exhaust back pressure which is a more accurate indication of engine load. Any leak in the exhaust tube or EGR will allow oxygen rich air in, leaning out the fuel air mixture.


Posted Image

#78 Dirtyowlnumber4

Dirtyowlnumber4

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 137 posts
  • Location:Silver City NM
  • Cars:Chevrolet S10, Cadillac DeVille, Datsun B210, VW Super Beetle

Posted 11 February 2018 - 10:17 AM

The plugs are actually good, they are brown and dry. The points on the ignition are good too.

 

I know the idle jet on the throttle side says 50 and the other says 55 but I don't know about the other ones I'll have a look.

 

It is running rich even though I've got the idle mix screw in all the way. and lately it seems to want to run 4 or 5 turns out.

 

 

It is in a bit of a mood today was starting right up yesterday but not trying at all today so I won't be able to troubleshoot much.

 

RFBLzak.jpg?1

 

on the one attached to the engine the threads closest to the EGR port are rusted away, to I shoved a cork between that and the tube to try and plug both of them up.



#79 datzenmike

datzenmike

    KING RAT

  • User Administrator
  • 72,245 posts
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 11 February 2018 - 11:15 AM

If not running the EGR you can cut the tube off and pinch and crush it flat and curl it up to seal it using vice grips. Cork will shrink and dry out from the heat and fall out. All you need do is seal the pipe so exhaust doesn't get ot. You can also unscrew it, take it to a fastener shop and get a metric pipe plug and seal it permanently.

 

 

 

 

It is running rich even though I've got the idle mix screw in all the way. and lately it seems to want to run 4 or 5 turns out.

 

 

 

 

Something else is causing this. It can run at less than one turn and then need 5.

 

Read this for setting the Weber adjustments... http://www.carbureti...eber/adjust.htm

 

THIS ASSUMES THAT THERE IS NO ENGINE PROBLEMS LIKE A VACUUM LEAK, TIMING OR IGNITION PROBLEM AND THE VALVE LASH SET AND THE ENGINE IS IN GOOD RUNNING CONDITION. IF THERE IS ANOTHER PROBLEM WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING... ADJUSTING THE CARB WILL BE A WASTE OF YOUR TIME


Posted Image

#80 DIY 1985

DIY 1985

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 87 posts
  • Location:Santa Fe, New Mexico
  • Cars:'75 Toyota FJ-40, '85 Nissan 720 rwd

Posted 11 February 2018 - 12:15 PM

How many turns in on the speed screw?