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All right guys I dun goofed


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#41 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 06 February 2018 - 06:12 AM

you even time this?

 

Buy a new weber.

 

 

saw the vid/ try pouring gas in from the top. see if it fires right away. if it does then the carb is fucked.


Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#42 Dirtyowlnumber4

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Posted 06 February 2018 - 10:08 AM

Fuel tank vent. Did you fuck with your fuel tank, lines, or return? If your tank can't vent, your pump can't deliver.


only the hoses for the fuel evaporation thing. whenever i open the cap there's pressure in there. And if i take the fuel hose off the carb and crank it it will move like a gallon a minute.

#43 Dirtyowlnumber4

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Posted 06 February 2018 - 10:10 AM

you even time this?

Buy a new weber.


saw the vid/ try pouring gas in from the top. see if it fires right away. if it does then the carb is fucked.


i timed it.

don't have money.

will try.

#44 Dirtyowlnumber4

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Posted 06 February 2018 - 01:48 PM

All right so this morning I went out, took off my egr cover and put it back on, and the car is a lot better. started normally, can idle for like 10 minutes and I took it on a 10 mile drive, still broken but it only had to stop once.

 

I was recording when I first tried to start it in the morning, and I stood there recording it for like 10 minutes waiting for it to die and eventually it did. That dying its doing in the end is what it will do on the road when it stops working and exlodes and whatnot.

 

 

I wasn't able to pour gas down the carb to see if it would fire because it is starting right up today.

 

It is also difficult to ignore the fact that every time I try to seal that egr hole better it starts working better. Doesn't make any sense since I've run it for a decent amount of time with no over and then for a while with a really shoddy cover and it didn't make a difference. But it is hella sealed right now if not a little rigged and stuffs still broken though. Maybe indicates something..?

 

Ssx6l3v.jpg?1

 

The EGR wouldn't fit back on with the weber. In the pic on their website it looked like they were gonna send me a little seal for it but they didn't, so if anyone knows where to get one of those that would be cool.

 

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#45 racerx

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Posted 06 February 2018 - 02:26 PM

Don't want to read through the whole thing but is that a real weber? Or some knock of like empi?

#46 Dirtyowlnumber4

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Posted 06 February 2018 - 10:43 PM

Don't want to read through the whole thing but is that a real weber? Or some knock of like empi?

yepper its real.



#47 DIY 1985

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Posted 07 February 2018 - 04:53 AM

I would work on making a very good EGR delete cover as part of a greater strategy to deal with potential vacuum leaks.  Fuel delivery, and air / fuel mix, are two other sets of issues.

 

I am assuming that the gang plate cover hole is on your intake manifold?  Time to fabricate.  I'd go with something thicker than the gang plate so that the fasteners can actually hold the profile.



#48 datzenmike

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Posted 07 February 2018 - 07:27 AM

It's common for the hole under the EGR to carbon up and plug itself so yes you might have been able to drive with it off. But then it cleared itself and you have a massive vacuum leak. Always best to just leave the EGR in place and disconnect it so it doesn't work.

 

Gas tank...

There is never pressure in a gas tank. There's no where for pressure to come from. What happens is that as the gas level lowers a small vacuum forms and when you take the gas cap off air rushed IN. The gas cap is fully sealed and as gas is removed air should get back in to replace it from your vent line to the charcoal canister.


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#49 Dirtyowlnumber4

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Posted 07 February 2018 - 10:25 AM

Alright I made sure not to change anything from yesterday (it was working fine) and sure enough today it won't work at all. I poured some gas down the carb, didn't do anything.

 

I can't think of anything else that would cause such inconsistent operations, the ignition system is the only other thing I would look at but the stuff is all new. Took the distributor apart a a little bit, don't really know what I'm doing but the points were working fine nothing looked broken or dusty in there. Have been cleaning the spark plugs every day they are black makes sense since I've been cranking it for like an hour every day eh. Coil is new too. Spark plug wires as well.

 

It's common for the hole under the EGR to carbon up and plug itself so yes you might have been able to drive with it off. But then it cleared itself and you have a massive vacuum leak. Always best to just leave the EGR in place and disconnect it so it doesn't work.

 

Gas tank...

There is never pressure in a gas tank. There's no where for pressure to come from. What happens is that as the gas level lowers a small vacuum forms and when you take the gas cap off air rushed IN. The gas cap is fully sealed and as gas is removed air should get back in to replace it from your vent line to the charcoal canister.

The EGR won't go back on with the weber there unfortunately.

 

I don't know what is happening then I got water on my hand and put it over the cap and opened it and i could feel air coming out. And when I take the fuel hose off the carb it will spray fuel out like its under pressure. I tried uncorking the hoses that went to the canister didn't change anything I'l leave them open though.



#50 datzenmike

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Posted 07 February 2018 - 10:29 AM

Leave the gas cap slightly loose and see if your problems go away. As to pressure build up in the tank where would it come from???? Only exhaust is under pressure.


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#51 Dirtyowlnumber4

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Posted 07 February 2018 - 10:50 AM

Leave the gas cap slightly loose and see if your problems go away. As to pressure build up in the tank where would it come from???? Only exhaust is under pressure.

My jerry can always has a decent amount of pressure when I first open it could be because we have cold nights and warm days here. Tried it with the gas cap loose but still won't start right now.

 

The spark plugs looked very clean today but there seemed to be a covering of oil on the piston heads. Don't know how that got there.

 

D0jJmNf.jpg?1



#52 Dirtyowlnumber4

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Posted 07 February 2018 - 11:07 AM

So yeah yesterday fired right up drove 10 miles with little issue, today with no changes tried to start it for an hour straight nothing happened.

 

Cleaned the spark plugs afterwards, tried fiddling with the carburetor, tried a new cap on the distributor put some spark plug grease on the wires still nothing.

 

Gotta go to work now but any more speculations would be appreciated.



#53 racerx

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Posted 07 February 2018 - 01:32 PM

how many turns out did you do for the idle mixture? and what was your idle rpm?



#54 Dirtyowlnumber4

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Posted 07 February 2018 - 03:28 PM

the idle mixture usually runs well at about 1 turn out. idle rpm is 1000rpm can't get it any lower problem with the throttle linkage

#55 datzenmike

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Posted 07 February 2018 - 04:15 PM

Depends how you clean a platinum or iridium plug. Normally they aren't cleaned but replaced. You can very easily fuck them up.

 

Which brings me to what make of plug? Should be NGK for an A series.


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#56 Dirtyowlnumber4

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Posted 07 February 2018 - 07:56 PM

they are ngk platinum. i clean them with a toothbrush

#57 datzenmike

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Posted 07 February 2018 - 08:44 PM

Again the tank should be vented to the charcoal canister which collects and saves the fumes. I had what I thought wa pressure in my 620 tank. Every time I refilled where was a huge whoosh. I ignored it until the gas tank imploded. Looked like a squashed banana.

 


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#58 Crashtd420

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Posted 08 February 2018 - 07:43 AM

they are ngk platinum. i clean them with a toothbrush


Maybe try the standard ngk plug for the motor... not the platinum....
On a different motor, not a datsun, my brother tried to put better plugs in and the motor started getting bad gas mileage and throwing codes.... he later found online that the motor didnt like the newer plugs for some reason.... he put some 3 dollar autolight plugs in and the motor ran perfect again.... might be worth the $10 to see....

#59 KELMO

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Posted 08 February 2018 - 10:03 AM

^^^This, use the regular NGK plugs. An "A" motor requires nothing fancy.  I will look later on today but I think BPR5ES or BPR6ES.


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#60 Dirtyowlnumber4

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Posted 08 February 2018 - 11:08 AM

I will try some new plugs.

 

Tried kajiggering my chinese carb on there to see if it changed anything but it appeared to have broken while sitting in the shed. Throttle doesn't work anymore. Starting to think it might not be a problem with the carburetor though.

 

I was thinking maybe it is dying because the cylinders are flooding over time because the spark plugs aren't able to keep up, but I take the spark plugs out when it dies and there's no fuel in the cylinders..

 

Valves needed some adjustment which I couldn't do can't rotate the engine with my giant ass radiator in the way but they seemed to be working well enough. If I can get a second I will take the head off and look at the bottoms of them.

 

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