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A-13 cylinder 3 not firing


B-210 GX

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After completely replacing the wiring harness and having the engine rebuilt at a reputable local machine shop, I still have a miss in cylinder 3. Plugs 1, 2, and 4 are fouled normally, 3 is clean as a whistle. Have replaced plugs and plug wires, to no avail. Also swapped in a Pertronix electronic ignition setup. Anything stupid I'm overlooking? Been working on this car for a year and a half now and I'm convinced it'll do anything to stay in the garage.

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engine rebuilt?  that's should have found a crack  valve or a valve not set right if constant.

 

wire harness? Now I don't know how or why that would be only of cylinder 3 bad as ythat dnt make sense trouble shooting wise.

 

now if 3 is not fireing you can tell buy grabbing it with yur hand with the plug wire . If you get shocked then the dist is routing the crrent to the spark plug. so its either cracked valve , bad plug ,severly blown ring or maybe the guy forgot to put the piston in , cause your not compressing the mixture to explode as it going ut some where or you got a massive intake leak on that runner if its a sideraft set up. If just a normal downdraft carb the other cly would see this also.

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I don't think it's timing. I'm with Mike and do a compression check or bad spark plug wires or connection.

If his timing is way off it could be a problem....

Pull all 4 plugs and make sure they are all sparking... then go from there...

If #3 isn't firing then switch the plug and wire and see if the error follows or not...

If the error stays with #3 then check the cap and rotor...

 

If that tells you nothing then start at the beginning...

As Mike said compression check

Valve lash....

then start at tdc...

Make sure the dizzy is installed correctly... then reset your timing...

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timming way off? a timming light would catch this. not a motor rebuild. before or after.

 

we assume he swapped the rotor and cap already as it cheaper than engine rebuild.  but one can grab end of wire and get shocked and that would be the ezeist or place near ground to get spark.

 

I don't know A motors if this Hydralic valve set up or not.

 

 

My 510 when it runs on 3 cly I pull the plug wire and runs (if I get shocked I know wire is good)  Ithe valve lash fell out of retainer. or valve too tight.

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After completely replacing the wiring harness and having the engine rebuilt at a reputable local machine shop, I still have a miss in cylinder 3. Plugs 1, 2, and 4 are fouled normally, 3 is clean as a whistle. Have replaced plugs and plug wires, to no avail. Also swapped in a Pertronix electronic ignition setup. Anything stupid I'm overlooking? Been working on this car for a year and a half now and I'm convinced it'll do anything to stay in the garage.

Firing order:  1-3-4-2  COUNTER CLOCKWISE 

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After completely replacing the wiring harness and having the engine rebuilt at a reputable local machine shop, I still have a miss in cylinder 3. Plugs 1, 2, and 4 are fouled normally, 3 is clean as a whistle. Have replaced plugs and plug wires, to no avail. Also swapped in a Pertronix electronic ignition setup. Anything stupid I'm overlooking? Been working on this car for a year and a half now and I'm convinced it'll do anything to stay in the garage.

 

 How do you know it's #3???

 

If idling and you pull the #3 wire off and there's no change in the idle then yeah something not right. Try pulling the other three off one at a time and observe the results.

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It can be simply too much fuel as well, but look at it from a scientific perspective:

loss of compression?  Check valve lash and test compression

Then check for spark - timing light on each plug wire to verify, try 8-10 BTDC at idle.  Ohm your plug wires and verify under 5000.  

Adjust fuel mixture to get a good plug color.  

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Its not uncommon to have a new cap with a terminal that's not machined correctly.  A significantly smaller air gap between the terminal and the rotor will result in a cylinder with a weaker or stronger spark.  A rotor with almost no clearance or scraping a terminal will have very poor spark.  Typically the gap is about the same size as your plug gap, and that helps boost coil output voltage.  Without that gap, that cylinder will have a weaker spark.  

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