NapZ in my '64 320

[LKPar1270]

I am in the process of putting an '89 NapZ and 5 speed transmission in my 320.  I am converting to a weber carb, don't want the FI or the computer control.  I am using a distributor from an '84, have it installed already.  I have test fitted the engine and have motor mounts and transmission mounts built.  Won't be ready to fire this engine for a while, maybe a couple of weeks.  I will be using an alternator from a Chevy Spring, which comes with a pulley for flat belt so have to make a v belt pulley before I mount it.

I have been taking a few pictures as I progress, will post here if there is any interest.

Anyone else done this before, be nice to communicate so we don't 'reinvent the wheel'

[Charlie69]

The 3rd Annual SWDP Barbecue there was a person that showed up with a NL320 that he had put a Z24 5 speed in with Weber carb.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steering linkage was his biggest hurdle.

Edited September 5, 2018 by Charlie69
Fix photos

[Ratwagon1600]

I have been taking a few pictures as I progress, will post here if there is any interest.

 

Haha, who is this guy?  Fancy asking if people on Ratsun like pics.

 

Welcome to Ratsun mate and get them pics up; this site is infested with picture whores.

 

p.s.  do not ask about Photobucket.

[wayno]

Welcome to the Zoo. :lol:

 

That has to be tight in there, what radiator are you using?

Where in Oregon are you?

[LKPar1270]

I live in Roseburg now, just recently moved from Salem.

Charlie69 mentioned that the steering gear was the bigest hurdle, not in my case. The pan on the NapZ looks like it was made for this little 320, it's got steps in the pan that match the cross member and tie rod exactly. I did have to trim a little off the bottom of the fire wall for transmission clearence, and to make it easier to remove and replace the engine I made the center section of the radiator suport removable.

Pics coming shortly.

[LKPar1270]

Oh yeah, the radiator. Havent chosen how I'll go with that. I think a stock D21 radiator would fit if it wasn't for the fan clutch on the NapZ, they are pressed on. This will be a daily driver so I don't want to have to find a machinist if I should loose a water pump on the road someplace away from home. Another thought is a Honda Civic radiator a little off to the right hand side at an angle. I tried tha when setting up the motor mounts and it will work.

[LKPar1270]

Was going to add some pctures, but it's not obvious how that's done. I will post as soon as I figure out how

[datzenmike]

Swap a 3.889 or 3.70 diff in there. The Z24 is a low speed high torque truck engine, make use of it

[LKPar1270]

Already in the plan. Gonna leave the stock one there for a while just for fun

[wayno]

I was going to suggest using an earlier L block water pump, but it appears they are different, too bad. :(

Dmike is correct about the rear gears, that engine really don't like it above 4000rpms, and freeway speeds will be above that with 488 gears, also the 320 axles are different than everything else made afterwards, so you will have to put your 320 side gears into what ever gearset you decide to go with.

[LKPar1270]

I will probably go with a narrowed rearend out of a car when I get ready to change it.

There is a pump out of a Pathfinder, I think it is, that appears to have the same gasket shape as the D21 engine but with a bolt on fan clutch, I'll be looking into that.

[datzenmike]

I was going to suggest using an earlier L block water pump, but it appears they are different, too bad. :(

 

 

All L and Z series water pumps will interchange but the Z series have a larger cavity and impeller and move more water. Then there are the different clutch fans and blades but they will swap if you have everything.

[wayno]

All L and Z series water pumps will interchange but the Z series have a larger cavity and impeller and move more water. Then there are the different clutch fans and blades but they will swap if you have everything.

These are not the same, not even the same distance between the bolt holes, right is L series, left is Z series.

[datzenmike]

I don't know what the one on the right is but not L or Z. It's also an inferior after market one with stamped steel impeller. I have a Z series water pump on my L20B for the larger impeller.

 

L16/18/L20B water pump...

 

 

 

Z series or L series air condition water pump. Note the deeper cavity and taller impeller blades...

 

[LKPar1270]

So, is there a Z pump that fits my engine that doesn't have the clutch fan pressed on?

[wayno]

It appears I some how confused an A series water pump with an L block water pump, how I ended up with a loose A series water pump is very confusing to me.

I found a Z series water pump gasket and test fit it to my LZ23 I have, it fit perfect.

 

So again I would suggest looking at L series water pumps, some of them have fans that are set back towards the engine which make them short compared to Z series water pumps/fans, here is a photo of my LZ23 fan assembly in my 521 work truck, it sticks out a total of 3 inches from the timing chain plate cover on the front of the head to the front of the fan, 3 inches isn't a lot, but it is not a clutch fan either.

[LKPar1270]

That is exactly how I was going to look for a pump. I have an old pump an was goino to take a pattern of the gasket and check fit on other nissan pumps at a parts store. This gives me a starting point, thanks.

Still havent figured out how to post pictures.

[LKPar1270]

I ended up milling the fan clutch off the water pump, I also pulled the vibration damper and machined off the outter half of the outter pulley. I now have enough clearence to change a belt if need be. I am using the radiator for a 2000 honda civic, but need to have the outlet rewelded so it comes out at a 45 degree angle to miss the alternator mount.

Thought the shifter was going to be a problem being so far back, but it comes out about an inch in front of the seat.

Still don't know how to post pictures on here.

[DanielC]

You have to host the pictures on another site, then in the second lower tool bar of the "Reply to this topic" window, there is a blue square with a green smaller square inside it. 

Open the picture you want to post in another tab, or window.  Copy the full link of the picture.  "control C"

Go back the post you are editing, write words until you get to the point you want to put the picture.

Click on the blue square, with a green square in it.  A window opens, with a blank spot.  Paste the picture link in the blank line. "control "V"

The picture should show up in your post.

 

By the way, you can go back and edit your posts including adding pictures indefinitely.

[LKPar1270]

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.533385886997520.1073741835.100009783401871&type=1&l=fefec93181

 

This should be a link to pictures of my 320

[captain720]

Nice! That has significantly less rust than my 720 daily.........

[LKPar1270]

Haven't been on in a while, some progress has been made. I ended up using a 2000 Honda Civic radiator. Cooling may be a problem as there is only room for a 10 inch pusher fan behind the grill, may end up adding a couple of 6 inch pull fans on the upper portion above the pump pulley.

Does anybody know if a water temp sending unit is still available for the 1200 engine, or one from another engine that has the right ohm range to work with the origalan temp guage?

[datzenmike]

I'm going to guess that the 720 sender will work with the 320 gauge. The temp and gas gauges are likely powered by the same 8 volt voltage regulator. To prevent a low voltage charge at idle giving a poor lower reading than a 14 volt charging alternator when revved up. I've used a Z24 engine (and a gas tank) with a 620 temp gauge and it read the same.

 

If you ground the sender wire to the block the gauge only reads full hot so you can't harm the gauge by trying.

[wayno]

One has to keep in mind that these trucks were positive ground with a generator, I successfully got the fuel gauge to work negative ground on my NL320 I bought from Mike K, but that gauge rests at empty when the ignition is off, but the temp gauge rests on full hot when the ignition is off, not sure if it will work negative ground, so far I have not tried as Mike had an aftermarket temp gauge installed so I didn't even bother to try, but he was using mileage for the fuel gauge, I needed to fix that.

[datzenmike]

The sender is just a variable resistor to ground OR to positive ground. Resistance is unchanged by polarity or direction of current flow. The actual gauge will read backwards if polarity is switched, but should be ok if the gauge wires are also reversed.