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DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap


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Project has a name:


 


DATSANATI


 


Current budget: $ 1,004.57


 


The forward subframe connectors are coming together. It's basically just a few pieces of 2x2 1/8" square tube I had in the pile. I'll make sure to weight everything I fab since I buy my steel by the pound from a local shop. 


2" slot cut into the upward slope behind the rear seat.


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The middle of the tube lines up with the hole in the subframe bushing, or close enough to it. There will be a captive nut inside the tube and the bolt will insert from below. There will also be a tube dowel for locating the subframe during assembly, which will act as a sleeve around the bolt. It will make more sense in pictures once I build it.


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Quality chisel time getting a lot of the sound deadening up so I have clean stuff to weld to.


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Now that looks sanitary! 


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Viewed from below


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The subframe mounts are almost the same width as the rear "frame-rail-like" features. There is some length overlap between those and my square tube, so the chassis stiffness shouldn't be affected. If anything, I will be making it stronger. It's an 80's Datsun afterall. 


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Almost like swapping a 510 irs into a 510 wagon... almost. :lol:

 

I'm new to the Datsun scene, so I had to look that up. I didn't even know 510's had IRS, though it's only a semi-trailing arm. I probably have the first 210 with double-wishbone front and rear. 

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I'm new to the Datsun scene, so I had to look that up. I didn't even know 510's had IRS, though it's only a semi-trailing arm. I probably have the first 210 with double-wishbone front and rear. 

 

Actually, someone beat you by about 3 months. There's someone local to me with one  :thumbup:

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I'm still claiming first fully double-wishbone Datsun 210 until I see otherwise :) 

 

Getting serious this week about attaching the IRS. First I had to clean up the aluminum subframe. It's quite a nice piece and really shines up!

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Since I am adding new steel to a Challenge car, and I buy steel by the pound, I weigh everything first. Here's 5.3 lbs for attaching the subframe.

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The forward mounts needed a hole, a captive nut, and a pilot tube. That's what I'm calling it, a tube for piloting the installation of the subframe.

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The tube was bolted to the captive nut I tacked in before this shot. It keeps the tube straight while I weld it in.

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Similar for the rear mounts.

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Oh, the G35 springs should fit perfectly here. Now I just need to build between the frame rail and the subframe mount. 

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The front mounts are tacked in and bolted up, with the rear of the subframe shimmed up to the right height using 2x4's. The track is a bit wide for the body. The brake rotors are almost flush with the body panels.

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I'll concede defeat once I see it rolling :)  Looks like a S13 assembly. I'm on an extremely tight budget of $2,018 so I won't have nice coilovers. Hoping I can make the "free" G35 shocks and springs work.

 

I'll take a picture of my measurements whiteboard in the garage next time. 

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Ask and you shall receive! Only pics hes posted so far

 

 

 

Well played. :lol: 

 

 

I'll concede defeat once I see it rolling :)  Looks like a S13 assembly. I'm on an extremely tight budget of $2,018 so I won't have nice coilovers. Hoping I can make the "free" G35 shocks and springs work.

 

I'll take a picture of my measurements whiteboard in the garage next time. 

 

 

Thanks. 

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All I remember is the rear pickup points need to be 12" off the ground, and the front pickup points are 9.25" off the ground. Because I measured those each about 50 times this week trying to get it all lined up! 

 

Also, I think I would like to move this thread to Project Datto. Is that something you can do as a mod or do I just create a new one there and dump this all in?

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I'll concede defeat once I see it rolling :)  Looks like a S13 assembly. I'm on an extremely tight budget of $2,018 so I won't have nice coilovers. Hoping I can make the "free" G35 shocks and springs work.

 

I'll take a picture of my measurements whiteboard in the garage next time. 

 

Are you keeping the stock style front suspension as well as rear? If you do, I might be able to help you in the coilover department! Got some Tein Street Basis for 350Z/G35 that use the stock rear spring bucket that we're selling off discounted at work because of some paint chips.

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Yep, it's all stock Nissan geometry all around, or as close to stock as I could keep it. Where do you work that gives you cheap coilovers? I'm clearly in the wrong line of business!

I work for Z1 Motorsports (link) I guess cheap is a relative term haha

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IRS subframe almost attached. I started making the mounts for the rear pickup points. Started with CAD as usual.


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3.54 lbs from the budget


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End plate are tacked in. That's about all I got this weekend.


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Here are some G35/350Z IRS subframe measurements in case anyone is interested.


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I had to pull the Datsun outside to turn it around. It's always nice to see your project in the light of day. This roughly ride height, thought the front is a little high. It looks lower than it is without wheels. You can still get under the rear bumper with a creeper.


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I finished welding the rear pickup points, bolted them to the subframe, and jacked the whole thing up into the Datsun.


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With the jack holding the diff upward, and the pickup points torqued, I tacked all the mounts into place.


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And then added the side plates and welded everything in once I was happy. Hopefully I didn't induce too much axle thrust.


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Here is an IRS subframe held in by bolts instead of a pile of wood and furniture dollies! Yeah milestone!


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With everything still bolted up I also finished welding the front pickup points. I still need to beef this up and tie it into what's left of the frame rails below it.


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Mad offset. We are almost cleared for box flare take-off. Still in holding pattern until the rear is sprung.


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I've already scoped out a good spot to put the upper spring perch. Now I just need to make it. The stock springs might work, but will probably need a coil or two cut out because I can't go high enough with the perch. Shocks also have a funny problem I'll dive into later.


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Spring perches are made! Just have to weld them in now.

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I decided to weigh this whole sheet and take it from the budget since I will probably use the whole thing and you can't just buy the weight you use for a Challenge car. 21.27 lbs from the budget.

The majority of tonight was just cutting and cleaning metal. I was always told welding is 90% prep, 10% welding.

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Tack 'n bend method use various clamps, hammers, and body weight.

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The G35's upper perch cushion fits right in. 

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But even with eBay lowering springs, it still needs to go lower because the Datsun frame rail limited the perch height. So here's a trick I learned from a 10 year old 350Z forum post. 

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The perch lip was too short anyway.

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The little "wings" are built-in gussets for welding to the Dastun frame rail.

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If the lowering springs are still too tall, I will just cut coils out of the stock ones and not use the eBay ones. It will save money in the budget anyway.

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Spring has sprung! And my perches are welded in. I did at some point suspend the vehicle by its own wheels after tacking! But forgot to take a picture. The used eBay lowering springs will be just right, but any amount of compression rubs the fender edges into the tire, as you might expect. The $79 lowering springs also included fronts, in the same awesome blue, so at least they will all match. 


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Stuck on you?


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Then I took the IRS out and cleaned up the undercarriage, including a few patch panels and stiffening pieces.


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Might as well prime and paint while I'm in here.


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I also experimented with cutting the G35 rear coils, but I went too far now I can't use them. That's fine, I have room in the budget for the eBay springs, they look awesomely blue, and they won't have cut ends. The black shock is a G35 shock. It's quite tall and will need an extra tall tower made that will interfere with the back seat. The yellow shocks I picked up from faceplace marketbook last night for about $10/piece. They are Koni 30 series adjustable, which are used for late-model modifieds. They feel substantially stiffer than the G35 shock, even on the softest setting. I hope they work because the shorter height will be easier to fabricate mounts for. I have plenty of extras to share for cost+shipping. PM me if interested.


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The Koni's have a hiem joint on each end that takes a 1/2" bolt. The bushing on the G35 knuckle uses a 12mm bolts. That's only 0.5mm difference. I needed to replace the shock bushing due to a destructive disassembly technique. So drilling out the hole a little allows a 1/2" bolt to slide through. The metal is very hard though and I'm having a tough time. 


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