1973 620 Fusible Link off of the battery

[ratspec620]

Hey out there! I finally got my very own bulletside!!

I am new and in need of some guidance to ID some issues, please. Thank you in advance!!

 

Premise: A one owner farm truck; rewired "farm-style" with a couple jumpers after the fallowing burnt issue (see below); sat the last ten years, but fired up and ran, though acting cold blooded / not staying running without keeping the revs up. Oil level and quality is good, antifreeze is good, new battery and now the following:

 

Burnt/Melted:

Blk/Wht (to the ignition coil resistor);

&

Wht/Blu (to the Anti-Dieseling Solenoid in the carb)

 

 

1)  What does a proper/original FUSIBLE LINK look like as it connects the smaller cable from the positive battery terminal out to:

   **The schematic shows it feeding:

     Alternator post "A"

    

     Ignition switch White wire

    

 

2)  Why would the IGNITION COIL BALLAST and the IGNITION COIL (fed by the Blk/Wht >>>  be getting excessively hot when the battery is connected? What is the normal operating temp for said parts?

 

3)  When I connect the positive lead to the battery and the key is in OFF/ON/ACC position, the Charge and Oil Dummy Lights come on, BUT when I switch the key to start and it is running the lights turn off.

 

I rewired the "Instrument Harness" according to the Chilton's.

 

Later found a thread that had a .png file of the full "Engine Room" and "Instrument/Chassis Harness".

 

Now I am thinking I may need to back track and go through the "Instrument Harness" to double check myself with the better schematic.

 

I am also wondering if:

-the oil sensor is bad

-the voltage regulator is bad

-I may not be grounded OR not making a full circuit somewhere, like the cut temp. sensor sw. (two wires) at the Thermostat housing

-One of the other relays or regulators has gone bad

[Lockleaf]

You have A LOT going on in that post. Most people won't read through it even if they know the answers you need.

 

Start with the first question. The fusible link. I'm not even sure what information you are seeking. Post a pic of what you have describe why you are concerned it's a problem. Then move on from there.

[datzenmike]

Ballast resistor gets HOT. So hot you can't touch it. This is normal. Catching fire isn't though. The coil will get hot if the points are closed with key ON and engine not running. Usually best to avoid thisas it's not good for the points.

 

Charge light should not be on in the OFF position. Should be on in ON and ACC when the engine NOT running. Should be off with engine running and charging

 

Oil light should not be on in the OFF position. Should be off only when running and there is oil pressure. Should be on in ON and ACC when engine not running.

 

Ignition switch may be wired wrong. Or bad.

 

 

If temp gauge not working find the Yellow/White stripe wire to the sender in the thermostat housing and ground it to the head. Temp gauge should read FULL HOT.... gauge is working. Connect to the sender and warm up engine... should read something. If fails to reach the run range replace the thermostat with a 180F. 

[Ratwagon1600]

You have A LOT going on in that post. Most people won't read through it even if they know the answers you need.

^^^^ correct.

 

I looked at the Question(s) and the structure of the thread was hurting my head.

 

Sorry, no advice from me.