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Get it done, 521


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#21 wayno

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Posted 26 December 2017 - 05:28 PM

They make light sockets that clip in with spring tension, the hole in the housings when the stock socket is removed is around the right size, I will admit they are kinda cheap, but I believe they are sold to get a person home legally.

I used Ford Pinto/Maverick sockets in my 520, but it has metal housings so I didn't need to add a ground wire to the housing/socket housing.

Everyone here needs to keep in mind that the 521 has a plastic taillight housing except for the 1968 Datsun 521 that don't exist according to some, but this is not one of them.


 

 


#22 volkswagner

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Posted 24 January 2018 - 09:01 PM

Whoops, accidentally made my truck a 3 cylinder.

NaB0ABi.jpg

 

Not sure what the cause was. Since my wagon is out of commission I decided to yank the head from my L20 in that. The L20 head is a ported open chamber big valve A87 so I hoped it would breathe a bit better on the highway. Then the added bonus of being able to put the closed chamber A87 on the wagon where I actually care about performance. 

All bolted up and been driving a few days, all seems good and it actually does seem to handle my high RPM highway commute much better.
 



#23 gene knight

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Posted 24 January 2018 - 09:26 PM

wayno: pm sent



#24 wayno

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Posted 24 January 2018 - 10:26 PM



wayno: pm sent

OK Gene I will answer your question here, you were asking about the sockets I suggested in post 21 in this thread, I bought these at the auto parts store a few/several years ago when I was working on my 520 taillights, I ended up using Maverick/Pinto taillight sockets in them housings, anyway the sockets in the photo below are spring loaded, you squeeze the sides together and install them in the hole and let loose they they hold themselves in there, but they do not have a ground wire, that would have to be added if put in 521 plastic taillight housings.

DSCN7721.jpg

These aftermarket taillight sockets also have a lot of spring pressure to hold them in the holes, well this may erode/break 521 taillight housings if they are old and falling apart, there are a bunch of different types of taillight replacement sockets at my auto parts store as I actually looked today, but they didn't have the type in the photo above anymore at the Baxters close to me, fact is this Baxters don't even sell Felpro gaskets anymore, I might have to start going somewhere else for gaskets.


 

 


#25 wayno

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Posted 24 January 2018 - 10:33 PM

This is what I did in my 520 I mentioned above, I used Maverick/Pinto sockets in my metal housings in the 520, I used screws to hold them in position.

DSCN0914.jpg


 

 


#26 volkswagner

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 08:57 PM

Got the 3.7's in the rear. Wow what a great improvement. So much nicer to drive on the freeway. Obviously I have to down shift in a couple more places on my commute but that way outweighs the high RPM of the shorter gears for me. 
IT's funny, now that the motor isn't so loud, I realize I really need some new window felt. So much wind noise all of a sudden!

 

Note on the diff install. When I went to jam the new diff in the housing something was clashing. I could only get to about 1/4" gap and then something clashing. 
I suspect it was the bearing caps hitting the lip where the housing pumpkin is welded on. I started some of the nuts and torqued them a little at a time to see if it was maybe just a burr on the housing or something stopping it. Right as I was about to give up and didn't want to torque any more it jumped into place. Then everything moved perfectly freely. I took it out at one point and could see no witnesss marks of where it was hitting. Anyone run into this? Just curiosity at this point now that it's in.



#27 wayno

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 09:26 PM

If your talking about putting the pumpkin/gearset into the axle housing it should have just dropped in, maybe it wasn't dropping/sliding in straight.

If your talking about an axle, I would be worried, it should have went home when the axle teeth aligned.


 

 


#28 volkswagner

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Posted 01 February 2018 - 07:03 PM

pumpkin into axle housing. a tried wiggling it all over to get it straight. I think the tolerance on the axle flange and the pumpkin boss must have been clashing. Either way, it's probably gonna be a bear if it ever need to come out!



#29 wayno

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Posted 01 February 2018 - 09:31 PM

Maybe a couple of the studs were bent when it was dropped out the last time, I have never had this issue you are talking about, I am just guessing.


 

 


#30 carterb

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Posted 07 February 2018 - 09:51 PM

Fun read Sam. 



#31 volkswagner

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Posted 03 March 2018 - 06:31 PM

I pulled the wagon into the garage for motor swap so I've been dailying the 521. 

 

It's been much nicer since the 3.7 gears. However, low rev. high torques boggs on my commute have taken their toll on the already weak clutch. 
It was almost to the point where I would have to give it enough power to slip in order to make it to 4th on the highway. No bueno.

Luckily, I just barely put a new clutch int the wagon about a 1000 miles ago an now with the motor swap I won't be using it. Love being able to repurpose parts!
Unfortunately the lightened flywheel from the wagon is 6 bolt. Can't win them all.

 

Had to take advantage of the sun since the wagon is hogging my 1 bay.
b9Xyw14.jpg

 

Clearly the clutch was actually toast and it wasn't a different issue. Worn to the rivets and started marking the pressure plate, luckily didn't marr the flywheel.
1kc8enz.jpg?1
 

Test drive success, had to have been the easiest transmission job I've ever done.
Question though, if I actually wanted to take the tranny out, do you have to remove the torsion rods? Didn't look like it would fall between them. 

 



#32 mklotz70

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Posted 03 March 2018 - 07:55 PM

You can pull one of them, pull the motor....or I think it was proven that you can unbolt the cab and jack it up a bit.


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#33 DanielC

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Posted 04 March 2018 - 09:57 AM

If you have a bench seat in a 521, you have to remove it to remove the transmission, and the plate in the cab that covers the shifter.

Do all the normal remove transmission stuff, remove the rear transmission mount from the frame cross member.  

The transmission can then be slid aft, until the input shaft clears the pressure plate.  I think you can then rest the transmission on the torsion bars, and relax for a bit.  Then roll the transmission slightly, the starter bump will clear the torsion bars, you can drop the front of the transmission, while the tailshaft goes in to the cab, where the seat was, and then slide the transmission forward and down under the engine, and the tail shaft clears the transmission cross member. 

With me, putting the front end of the 521 up on drive on ramps gets the truck high enough that I can work easily under the truck, but not so high that I am reaching up too far.



#34 Charlie69

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Posted 04 March 2018 - 05:00 PM

Great discription of the 521 trans removal DanielC.