datzenmike Posted January 6, 2018 Report Share Posted January 6, 2018 You say don't let it idle for to long?... it is winter time how long should I let it worm up? I've been driving the rebuild for about 3 days now and I let it idle for about 5 minutes before I drive it is that to long?? Idling is inevitable, like at a stop light or in traffic, all other times shut it off. The aim is to keep the engine working through a variety of RPMs and loads, to speed up the break in. If in town try to use a lower gear and accelerate and slow, on and off the gas as much as possible. Lots of gear changes up and down. Get out of town if you can and drive longer and harder. Avoid driving along at steady, light throttle speeds. Engines don't have to be thoroughly warmed up to drive them in the winter. A few minutes when cold, then I drive away, it can warm itself while I drive. Naturally, allow it to warm before any hard driving. Check the oil and coolant level every day for a while so there are no surprises. Change the oil and filter in about 500 miles. 1 Quote Link to comment
Kingcab Posted January 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 Anyone know if the 300$ Lincoln stick welder 225 amp is any good from home depot? Ac current..... for welding my diff Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 8, 2018 Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 Personally I like the mig welder they sell for about 400.... does mig and flux core plus has the gas assist, (just add bottle).... I just don't like those stick welders, i think they are ment for thick metal and are messy conpared to other welding but that's me.... Maybe you have welding skills I don't know about.... but I think getting the diff tig welded would be a better option.... Quote Link to comment
Kingcab Posted January 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 I have a nice Lincoln tig welder.. but with all the research I've done my understanding is that stick welding is the way to go for a diff Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 8, 2018 Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 Outside of my knowledge so I won't debate it.... probably something to do with the level of penetration you can achieve.... Quote Link to comment
Kingcab Posted January 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 Yes 100 percent correct. I just picked the welder up I'm going to be welding the diff here shortly Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 Anyone know if the 300$ Lincoln stick welder 225 amp is any good from home depot? Ac current..... for welding my diff Welded diff.... AKA a Lincoln Locker You won't need a LSD or a welded diff with an L20B. Open diff is safer to drive. But, oh well. Expect constant slight under steer (ploughing ahead into corners) and the odd sudden unexpected over steer on corners. Stay alert..... and lots of tire wear. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 I have an LSD in my turbodiesel 521 kingcab and I don't like it, the back of my truck isn't heavy enough and it keeps getting a mind of its own going around corners/making a left turn when it is wet/raining outside and I give it some pedal, it is getting old. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 The outer rear wheel has to go farther than the inside wheel on a corner. The tighter the corner the more the difference. With a welded diff the tires are forced to turn the same speed so one or both are sliding some amount and to add to this the shifting body weight will bear down more on the outside wheel forcing the inner wheel to speed up and slip shifting the vehicle to the outside even more. An LSD will allow the wheels to turn at different speeds because traction overcomes the built in clutches and they do the slipping, on dry pavement that is, and if the clutches have a moderate break away setting. Poor traction like mud, snow, wet changes this also. LSDs and welded diffs are great in poor traction and straight away acceleration. On a sloped surface they tend to over steer to the down hill side. Once you lose traction it's very hard to get it back. Ever watch those U tubes where muscle cars are leaving a show and they light the tires and get out of shape and swerve back and forth and then hit something or go off the road, and you say to yourself... fuck what an idiot, I could have done better steering that car??? Well that is almost certainly an LSD that adds unpredictable over steer to those who are not used to it, or thought they were used to it. Quote Link to comment
Kingcab Posted January 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 I've done more than enough research about welded diffs. It's a drift truck anyway not to woried about tires. And yeah it will defenatley take some getting use to let's hope I don't unexpectedly loose control. What rear end oil should I use.. i think I have some 85 150 or something like that laying around if that will work?.. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 Stock 90W is fine. 150 would be better for severe heat which Oregon isn't. Too thick isn't good when very cold either. I've used a synthetic blend and... it leaked past the pinion seal and make a damn mess. Switched back and it dried up. Quote Link to comment
Kingcab Posted January 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2018 Anyone know where i can get a new timing chain front cover?? With waterpump?? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 10, 2018 Report Share Posted January 10, 2018 There is a 2wd 1980 Datsun 720 with an L20b engine at the Sherwood OR pick and pull, it still had the engine with the front cover/water pump on it, I was there today getting the oil pan, starter, bypass coolant piping, and fuel piping. The transmission was gone, the radiator and shroud were still there also, it had brand new non-vented rotors(drilled type). Quote Link to comment
Kingcab Posted January 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2018 That 3 hour drive from me all I habe is the datsun for transportation haha. Was wondering if there was any company that made bran new ones. Otherwise I'll just look at local junk yards Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 10, 2018 Report Share Posted January 10, 2018 The local yards is your best avenue, any L20b will work(620/720). It's actually almost and 2 hour drive for me round trip if traffic is normal, it sucked today, I seriously believe all them people are crazy/loony for going thru that bullshit 5 days a week, there were no wrecks, so why was it stop and go for 15 miles, they are loony, I am not going back there for a while, I had my dose of loony today, I am good for a month at least. Quote Link to comment
Kingcab Posted January 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2018 Is it possible to resurface the timing cover?? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 11, 2018 Report Share Posted January 11, 2018 A very mild re-surface I don't see why not. Pull the two tiny alignment dowels out. Replace the front seal. Bolt holes should be large enough for the oil pan and head. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 11, 2018 Report Share Posted January 11, 2018 Why would that part ever need to be resurfaced? Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted January 11, 2018 Report Share Posted January 11, 2018 Scrub it clean with some scotch Brite pads and call it a day. Quote Link to comment
Kingcab Posted January 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2018 You all have been so helpful with my build and issues during it all! I can't thank you enough!! I'm thinking about cutting about 2 feet off the rear end of the bed and rewelding the tailgate and hinge section back on has this ever been done do you know? Quote Link to comment
Kingcab Posted January 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2018 And the reason for me wanting to resurface the timing cover is that the head was resurfaced due to over heating and I believe the timing cover is also aluminum and it has always dumped oil out no matter how much gasket seal I use Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 11, 2018 Report Share Posted January 11, 2018 You all have been so helpful with my build and issues during it all! I can't thank you enough!! I'm thinking about cutting about 2 feet off the rear end of the bed and rewelding the tailgate and hinge section back on has this ever been done do you know? It's called 'bobbing'. I don't know about 2 feet. There has to be frame for the leaf springs to mount to. I've seen the frame, driveshaft and box shortened in front of the rear wheels and everything moved forward. Gas tank is a problem but one could be mounted where the spare is. And the reason for me wanting to resurface the timing cover is that the head was resurfaced due to over heating and I believe the timing cover is also aluminum and it has always dumped oil out no matter how much gasket seal I use Get several sheets of #200 sand paper and tape to a glass table top. Slide the timing cover gently back and forth on it. If there are low spots it will show. There's no reason for it to leak unless damaged and it couldn't have been damaged if it was on the engine. New gaskets will fix this. Quote Link to comment
Kingcab Posted January 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2018 Sooo just a thought... for later down the road... whay would I need for a supercharge kit for my l20b full list would be ausome so I d'can slowly buy parts Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 16, 2018 Report Share Posted January 16, 2018 A supercharger.... maybe from an Xterra? Larger carb? The rest would be custom made one off parts. Intake, mount for SC, belts and pulley. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 Basically what Mike said. There isn't a kit. You will be custom building it. You will need to understand blow through vs suck through supercharging so you can decide which you want to deal with. Start by looking at kits made for other 4cylinder engines, like the TRD kits for scions or aftermarket kits for Hondas and Subarus. You could also look up KA24DER builds. Quote Link to comment
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