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#21 Conner

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 10:59 AM

Here are some pics of what I've got, wiring-wise.  Unfortunately some of the harness and individual wires have overspray on them, so it isn't the clearest what is going where.  

 

I also noticed that a bunch of the wires that go to the front headlights are just wrapped up and tucked in behind the grill and don't connect to anything, so I guess I shouldn't be surprised that the headlights are working.  

 

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#22 difrangia

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 04:54 PM

Our 320 has the wiring for the fog lights though I don't believe it ever had the lights. The wires were, kinda like you described, just doubled back and taped into the loomin the front header area. I'd have to refer to a printed copy of the colour marked wiring diagram that I have out in the shop, but the copy I have on my computer looks to have a black and a red/green wire for the fog lights. Maybe they were pretty much all wired for at least some of the options so that if a potential buyer wanted something dealer added, it would be pre-wired and all the dealer would have to do was bolt on the hardware and locate the wiring and hook it up ?? 

 

Man, that is some crummy looking wiring in the photos. The actual loom looks not so bad, just dirty/corroded as hell. I believe that I'd start by doing a real good cleaning of all the electrical terminals starting with the fuse box. I've experienced a situation where I lost all external lighting. I traced it down to a crummy fuse contact on the fuse box. Cleaned all the terminals and 'No more  problemo'.


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#23 wayno

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 10:54 PM

Where is this starter relay, here is mine, it has the negative battery cable going to it(mine is positive ground), and the other main cable goes to the starter.

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#24 Charlie69

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 06:07 AM

You can use some acetone or lacquer thinner on a rag in a well ventilated area to clean over spray off of the wires and loom.  Both of these liquids are highly flamable so please disconect the battery and remove it for better access to the wiring.

 

I totally agree with difrangia on the cleaning of all the terminals and devices (fusebox, etc.) as this is the major cause on these old Datsun's wiring problems.



#25 Conner

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 10:53 AM

Where is this starter relay, here is mine, it has the negative battery cable going to it(mine is positive ground), and the other main cable goes to the starter.

 

 

 

I don't have anything that looks like that in my engine bay.  I guess it's missing.  When I got the truck the negative battery cable went directly to the starter and the positive to the engine block.  The only other wire from the battery splits off the negative and runs over to the voltage regulator--it is the yellow wire connecting to the top left of the voltage regulator in the first picture in Post #21 above.  

 

 

Progress!  I pulled the starter and removed all the connections and re-connected the wires and re-installed it.  I also cleaned up the ground cable going from the underside of the starter to the frame.  

 

Now I have no trouble connecting the battery.  No more sparks.  

 

However, I still don't have any power to anything in the truck with the battery installed.  When I turn the key I get nothing, and no lights in the cab or headlights work.  



#26 Conner

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 11:17 AM

I'm thinking my starter may have been replaced with a later, perhaps J13, starter with the integrated solenoid before I got the truck.  The starter is a Mitsubishi MCA03-0 starter and has part 23300-B5010 cast into it near the nose.  Also, when I removed and replaced the battery cable the nut required a 13 mm socket--another clue that this is from a later truck.  



#27 wayno

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 01:52 PM

OK, I have no idea what you have, if you have a starter with the solenoid on it then you have to wire the truck differently, it would be wired more like a negative ground vehicle.

The negative battery cable would go to the starter, then another large cable would likely have to go to the generator or regulator from that starter lug, the positive cable would go to the block.

I have no idea if this would work either, especially with the starter you have, I just don't know, are you sure that starter will work on the flywheel you have, have you ever turned it over with that starter?


 

 


#28 difrangia

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 02:40 PM

Conner, is this a column or floor shift pickup?

 

Are you the 'Grommet Guy' from a couple years ago?

 

If you are, you'll know what I'm talking about.

 

Steve


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#29 Conner

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 03:08 PM

Oh boy.  I'm not wedded to keeping this truck positive ground.  Just thought it would be easier to get it running as-is without changing too much, and I would like to keep the generator if possible.  Can I just reverse the wires and switch to negative ground?  There's no radio in the truck.  Will the generator work with a negative ground set-up?  

Alternatively some of the British vendors (like Moss) sell starters that I have heard will work and I assume they are positive ground, and they also sell the external solenoid that looks similar to the stock on on the 320.  That's another possibility.  

 

Steve--it is a 64 L320 and is a column shift.  And yes, I'm the one who pulled together the engine bay grommets.  

 

Thanks for your help.  



#30 Conner

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 03:25 PM

This is the British starter, seems to fit a lot of models from MGAs to Sprites from a range of years.  I'm not saying I know this will fit, but it may.  It definitely looks different than the one that came with my truck.  

 

https://mossmotors.c...t-1?assoc=33716



#31 wayno

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 05:46 PM

That is the type of starter I have on all my 320 trucks, I also had a MG Midget starter that looked like my 320 starters, but I was able to sell that engine so i never test fit that starter to see if it would work on a Datsun engine.

You can see if it will turn the engine over if the engine is not seized, all you have to do is put the transmission in neutral, connect the battery cables up(positive ground), then it would be best to use a remote trigger but all you need to do is give the starter exciter wire post power and it should turn over, and what I mean is power from the negative post on the battery to the exciter post on the solenoid, that will activate the starter.

You cannot just switch to negative ground, the generator will not  work and it could possibly hurt it, I do not know if it can switch it to negative ground but someone likely can but why, if going negative ground just use an alternator. 

I just went out and tested a starter with a solenoid both ways and it worked both ways(positive and negative ground), it also turned the same way both ways/times so it is likely the starter will work no matter what way it is wired, but the generator doesn't work that way.

If you turn it over and it sounds bad/wrong stop as the teeth on the flywheel might not be the same as the ones on the starter.