Jump to content


Photo

A layman's guide to a beater (85' 4x4)


  • Please log in to reply
73 replies to this topic

#21 720inOlyWa

720inOlyWa

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 860 posts
  • Location:Olympia, WA
  • Cars:1984 720 2wd King cab, 1985 720 Nissan King Cab 2wd ‘the Fudgecicle’, ’86 Nissan 720 4x4

Posted 07 December 2017 - 09:52 PM

It took me a long time to track down and eliminate my cab leak. I think I finally got it, however. My mpg model 720 has a tight cab, and it has always been tight and man, what a difference that makes! It really motivated me to go after the leak in my daily.



#22 bottomwatcher

bottomwatcher

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 90 posts
  • Location:FL/ME
  • Cars:82 720, 68 beetle + dailies

Posted 08 December 2017 - 04:08 AM

The cowling leaks are difficult to fix since it is nearly impossible to see or attack the rust. The drain doesn't seem to be at the lowest point. I do lots of boat repairs so I used epoxy resin thickened with cabosil, jacked the truck up slightly on one side and poured it on the rust. Hard to explain but you just want to fill the low spot so the water will continue on the the proper drain hole. This may take a couple of tries and lay some plastic inside to catch drips to avoid an unclean able mess. Epoxy is very expensive and you will need only a few tablespoonfuls. I think the cheapest way to get a small amount is harbor freight has some in syringes and I have used flour before as a thickener where strength was not an issue. Some of that stuff sets so fast you probably don't need to thicken just keep pouring in microbatches until the leak is clogged up. Think what happens when you pour hot bacon grease down the sink. You may get away with it a couple of times but then you will have a problem. 720inOlywa he may be referring to eying young nubile camel toe.

#23 720inOlyWa

720inOlyWa

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 860 posts
  • Location:Olympia, WA
  • Cars:1984 720 2wd King cab, 1985 720 Nissan King Cab 2wd ‘the Fudgecicle’, ’86 Nissan 720 4x4

Posted 08 December 2017 - 09:09 AM

720inOlywa he may be referring to eying young nubile camel toe.

 

Guilty as charged...



#24 datzenmike

datzenmike

    KING RAT

  • User Administrator
  • 70,316 posts
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 08 December 2017 - 10:18 AM

Wear reflective sunglasses just like Boss Godfrey. You young'uns will have to do a movie search to get that one.


Posted Image

#25 ClumsyBird

ClumsyBird

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 26 posts
  • Location:Canby OR
  • Cars:85' Nissan 720 4x4

Posted 08 December 2017 - 07:42 PM

No man can eat fifty eggs



#26 wayno

wayno

    Datsunahaulic

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,990 posts

Posted 08 December 2017 - 07:49 PM

No man can eat fifty eggs

 

You would be surprised what a person can eat if they workout 3/4 hours a day 4 days a week and have an 8 hour job 5 days a week also.

People would start staring at me after I downed my my second heaping full plate at the Mongolian Grill and was heading back for my third or even my forth plate, I loved that place, I would actually get full there, I only weighed around 150lbs back then.


 

 


#27 ClumsyBird

ClumsyBird

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 26 posts
  • Location:Canby OR
  • Cars:85' Nissan 720 4x4

Posted 10 December 2017 - 09:25 AM

The way I'm thinking about going about this is, ripping the seats out (save the rails), ripping out any carpet or vinyl left, checking for any rust underneath the seats, if everything is okay then ill work on the cab bushings. I'm thinking of jacking the front of the cab up and off the bushings, and welding a plate or thicker sheet metal on each side of the floorpan, I'm doing two as to displace the weight more evenly. then I'll plasma cut some holes out for the cab bushing nut to sit on top of, and lower the cab onto the bushings. For the rest of the holes in the floor, I think ill just weld some 16 ga sheet metal on the top layer and cover everything with rust reformer and some rubberized undercoating. Once the cab ceases to have holes in the floor then I can go about finding that cab leak. I might even tear out the dash and try and fix the vents while I'm at it, its getting  a tad bit cold to be driving without the defroster... anybody see any problems with this plan?



#28 Lockleaf

Lockleaf

    Hall Monitor

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,449 posts
  • Location:Happy Valley, Utah
  • Cars:'71 510 Goon, '90 240SX, '85 720, '69 Roadster, '96 Pathfinder, too much other shite

Posted 10 December 2017 - 10:40 AM

To really repair rust severe enough to be buckling you need to cut it completely out. Rust reformer type products only work on surface rust. So to really fix the problem first remove, then replace.

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#29 ClumsyBird

ClumsyBird

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 26 posts
  • Location:Canby OR
  • Cars:85' Nissan 720 4x4

Posted 25 December 2017 - 03:01 PM

Currently in the process of pulling my seats out and jacking the cab off of the bushings, i'm ordering a new blower motor, ignition cylinder, engine and transmission mounts, and accelerator cable all from rock auto (the first of many I fear), with the cab mostly disassembled and rock auto charging me over 40 dollars for shipping, it seems like a prime opportunity to get some replacement parts as she is a tried old truck (over 300k), any general advice on parts to get?



#30 Lockleaf

Lockleaf

    Hall Monitor

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,449 posts
  • Location:Happy Valley, Utah
  • Cars:'71 510 Goon, '90 240SX, '85 720, '69 Roadster, '96 Pathfinder, too much other shite

Posted 25 December 2017 - 04:38 PM

All you control arm bushings. Front lowers have probably never been changed.

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#31 ClumsyBird

ClumsyBird

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 26 posts
  • Location:Canby OR
  • Cars:85' Nissan 720 4x4

Posted 26 December 2017 - 12:00 PM

Yeah looks like I'll be buying whole new control arms, 4x4 parts sell new ones that are 2 or 3 inches taller than stock, which would be nice for some bigger tires (31's), I'm going to keep my IFS as replacing it with SAS is way way way too complicated for a first build, after all I'm not the fabricating genius that lockleaf or poor-mans-720 is (see - tiny havok & 720 shenanigans). But I will be replacing the back axle as their is almost zero aftermarket support for the c200 rear diff that I have, and I dont really want to weld it, sounds like wagooner axles and mid 80's Toyota are good choices, And I'll just add a leaf to the back to the back to level it, depending on the axle, I may be able to keep my stock leaf springs right? 4x4 Parts also sells some steering stabilizers for my truck that sound pretty cool too



#32 wayno

wayno

    Datsunahaulic

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,990 posts

Posted 26 December 2017 - 01:09 PM

Changing a control arm doesn't change the bushing, the bushing is what the control arm is connected to, I have never actually seen a bad/lose one myself.

What do you mean by a control arm is taller than stock?

They make drop spindles, do they make raise spindles for Datsun/Nissan 4wd trucks, you have a link, I never heard of such a thing, but I am not into 4X4s either.


 

 


#33 ClumsyBird

ClumsyBird

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 26 posts
  • Location:Canby OR
  • Cars:85' Nissan 720 4x4

Posted 26 December 2017 - 02:28 PM

At least that was my understanding, check it out for yourself. 

 

https://www.4x4parts...ntrol-arms.html



#34 wayno

wayno

    Datsunahaulic

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,990 posts

Posted 26 December 2017 - 06:16 PM

I was talking about lower control arms and the bushings they connect to when mounted, my fault for not being more specific.

I suspect that them upper control arms are a waste of money, have you adjusted your torsion bars yet?


 

 


#35 ClumsyBird

ClumsyBird

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 26 posts
  • Location:Canby OR
  • Cars:85' Nissan 720 4x4

Posted 26 December 2017 - 06:38 PM

No sir, from what I can tell it hasn't been touched since purchase.



#36 wayno

wayno

    Datsunahaulic

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,990 posts

Posted 26 December 2017 - 07:32 PM

You have to adjust the torsion bars to raise it, them upper control arms don't raise it, they just angle the upper ball joint at a different angle so it can be raised higher without binding the upper ball joint.


 

 


#37 Lockleaf

Lockleaf

    Hall Monitor

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,449 posts
  • Location:Happy Valley, Utah
  • Cars:'71 510 Goon, '90 240SX, '85 720, '69 Roadster, '96 Pathfinder, too much other shite

Posted 26 December 2017 - 08:43 PM

Those lift control arms aren't a waste. They allow you to maintain proper camber with 3 inches of lift. Without the lift control arms you are rocking like 6 degrees positive camber at that height.

I have a set on my truck. Well worth the proper camber.

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#38 ClumsyBird

ClumsyBird

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 26 posts
  • Location:Canby OR
  • Cars:85' Nissan 720 4x4

Posted 29 December 2017 - 05:19 PM

Anybody here have any experience on doing a rear axle swap? I'd rather not weld it for ride quality sake, having some sort of locker would be nice, but since there is like none for a c200 (any that exist are far too expensive, it seems its actually less expensive to get another axle and then buy a locker) I don't plan on driving it any time soon and I already have the damn thing torn apart and on jackstands, any recommendations or tips? I've heard a mid to late 80's toyota axle or a wagoneer axle works well. But I cant find any threads using the sites search feature, and using my search engine and including 'ratsun' doesn't yield much either, as most of the discussion is under a thread under a different name. Assume that I don't know anything, probably because I don't haha. Any advice from anybody is welcome, thanks!



#39 wayno

wayno

    Datsunahaulic

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,990 posts

Posted 29 December 2017 - 06:13 PM

First your going to have to find an axle that has the gear ratio you have in your front, or at least it can be bought, next it would be nice to be six lugs as you already have them now, then you need to find one about the same width.

I thought this was going to be a beater 4X4, do you really need an LSD?


 

 


#40 ClumsyBird

ClumsyBird

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 26 posts
  • Location:Canby OR
  • Cars:85' Nissan 720 4x4

Posted 29 December 2017 - 06:33 PM

Its a beater now but I would like it to be a working truck that I could take camping and do some mild offroad with, So I think some sort of locking diff is in order