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#21 Dirtyowlnumber4

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 10:23 AM

thanks for the scans wayno, I did set mine up like that thats what my manual said to do it didn't mention the marks on the chains and sprockets but I did line those up, I guess I will take the timing set off and put it on again and not out the timing cover back on until I know it starts this time.

 

It would not be 180 degrees out if the valves on cylinder one are closed at TDC right?



#22 wayno

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 10:34 AM

I got to looking at the firing order he keeps talking about, 1, 2, 4, 3 clockwise is 1, 3, 4, 2 counter clockwise, not the way we think here as the rotor doesn't turn clockwise, but if it truly is as he said then the plug wires are in the correct order done clockwise and it should have run if everything else is correct.

Obviously everything else is not correct as it would have run.


 

 


#23 wayno

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 10:47 AM

thanks for the scans wayno, I did set mine up like that thats what my manual said to do it didn't mention the marks on the chains and sprockets but I did line those up, I guess I will take the timing set off and put it on again and not out the timing cover back on until I know it starts this time.

 

It would not be 180 degrees out if the valves on cylinder one are closed at TDC right?

 

Quit thinking about valves, you have to do it the way the photo is I scanned, the cam gear while connected to the cam has to be the way it is in the scanned photo with the camshaft dowel hole pointed directly at the crank, that will put the cam in the proper position, and the crank key groove needs to be pointed the same way, both need to be pointed at 4:30 and in line like in the photo, if the chain is put on while these 2 gears are that way then it doesn't matter about the chain marks. 

Both gears have marks on them, you said the chain had 2 silver links correct, them silver links should align with the marks on the cam and crank gears, if they don't then the gears are not aligned like the ones in the scanned photos.


 

 


#24 Dirtyowlnumber4

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 02:21 PM

Dear friends, thank you for all the help. I opened it up and it appears to be 180 degrees out, also noticed that cooolant was leaking into the oil so good thing I had a look.



#25 wayno

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 03:24 PM

The coolant could have got into the oil when you removed the front cover, or you could have another issue, keep that in mind.


 

 


#26 Dirtyowlnumber4

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Posted 05 December 2017 - 12:07 AM

The gasket I got was kind of papery and shitty, looked like the coolant had soaked through it. Just gonna replace it with red RTV. Hopefully don't have another issue but I'll keep an eye on the oil after I get the engine back together.



#27 wayno

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Posted 05 December 2017 - 12:48 AM

You need good gaskets around the water jacket, buy another set of gaskets or make them if you have to.

I make gaskets all the time out of cereal boxes or other boxes of the same thickness as the stock gasket, they also sell gasket material at auto parts stores, I suspect you only want to do this one more time, I sure don't want to keep re-doing things I already have done because I got in a hurry and just had to get it back together now.

Just step back and get what you need to finish the job right, then finish it, you just rebuilt this engine, get the front on it properly and then before putting the rest of it back together(radiator, ect.) test fire it and make sure it runs, once it hits and starts, shut it down and finish putting it back together, I have run engines sitting in a frame for a couple minutes at an idle just to make sure they were good/didn't knock, then I pulled them to store them or sell them, as long as they have oil it will not hurt to see it run for 10/20 seconds.


 

 


#28 KELMO

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Posted 05 December 2017 - 08:56 AM

I have used Felpro and Victor Rains gasket sets in the past with no issues.  Got them out of Rock Auto. Also, these were used on "A" engines.


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#29 Cosmonaut

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Posted 05 December 2017 - 10:19 PM

Any news?

#30 Dirtyowlnumber4

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 11:00 AM

Well I put the timing chain back on like the manual specified, I remarked the timing mark and got the distributor in the correct place, all the valve clearances are good and they are firing at the right time, I cleaned off the spark plugs and took the carb apart cleaned the jets and checked the float, fuel is pumping well, points are working all plugs are firing but it seems no closer to starting than it was before.

 

And I put it back together so I could let the gasket maker dry overnight because I was fairly confident it would work. Whoops.

 

A similar situation was developing the first time I was trying to start it a while ago, and buying a new carb helped, but the new carb still looks brand new inside. I am quite stumped.



#31 Dirtyowlnumber4

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 12:44 PM

The guy at the shop told me to do a compression test as well to see if I broke any valves or if the piston rings I put in aren't making any compression



#32 wayno

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 06:26 PM

Did you set up the cam gear and crank gear the way it was in the photos I scanned from my manual?

What Datsun manual are you using, maker and manual number please.

You actually don't even need a carb to fire an engine, one just pours a tiny amount of gas in the intake(teaspoon) and start it up, if it is back firing it's getting gas and will run if everything is set up correctly, I have started several engines over the years without the fuel pump, I fill the carb bowl full of gas, I turn the engine to TDC, I turn on the key, then I turn the distributor till the spark plug I got on number one wire sparks while the threads are grounded, I put the spark plug wire back onto number one plug, I then pour a small amount of gas down the carb, pull the choke on and I start it.

If anything is not right it will not start.

Does the engine turn over unevenly or very fast?


 

 


#33 Cosmonaut

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 01:37 PM

New cap n wires....wether yours r new r not...get new GOOD QUALITY parts. Change out the points n condensor....better yet get an electronic ignition from a later model b210 or 210 (avoid the CA ones). Have the coil tested.

You had fire at the beginning n now u are going backwards. All of the stress you have put on the points will have for sure fried them. Also, make sure you do not have a massive vacuum leak.

From the start it fired n missed per revolution..bad plug wire or cap...being that u have inspected the valve gap.

#34 Cosmonaut

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 01:40 PM

I might have a electronic ignition, but I do not have a box..PM me your address n I will send you the distributor for free.

#35 Dirtyowlnumber4

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 02:17 PM

Did you set up the cam gear and crank gear the way it was in the photos I scanned from my manual?

What Datsun manual are you using, maker and manual number please.

 

Does the engine turn over unevenly or very fast?

I did. It is the Haynes manual.

 

The engine is firing, it will even run at 300rpm for a few seconds at full throttle but after a few backfires it knocks out.

 

New cap n wires....wether yours r new r not...get new GOOD QUALITY parts. Change out the points n condensor....better yet get an electronic ignition from a later model b210 or 210 (avoid the CA ones). Have the coil tested.

You had fire at the beginning n now u are going backwards. All of the stress you have put on the points will have for sure fried them. Also, make sure you do not have a massive vacuum leak.

From the start it fired n missed per revolution..bad plug wire or cap...being that u have inspected the valve gap.

 

I have looked at the distributor it would be great to have an electronic one for sure. The one I have is brand new, as well as the cap and the wires, and everything looks clean. I have checked all the plugs to make sure they are firing right.

 

My last theory was that perhaps the valves had gotten bent by the pistons when the cam was on wrong, but I just did a compression test and it was great. I figured that messed up valves would affect the compression, I could be wrong though I will have a look at them anyway. Besides that with a new carb, new ignition system and all new timing components besides the cam, I think I have ruled out everything I can think of.. I will keep tinkering with it for a while but I can't see any success coming out of that if I can't figure out what the problem is. Might just have to turn it in for the winter.



#36 wayno

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 06:51 PM

Take number one spark plug out of the head, turn the crank till the mark/notch on the front pulley is at top dead center(0) like in the photo below of the pulley and the timing chain cover, I took another photo after I cleaned up the notch so it can be seen better, once it is at TDC stick a screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole, is the piston at the top?

 

DSCN7488.jpg


 

 


#37 Cosmonaut

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 12:55 AM

I did. It is the Haynes manual.

 

The engine is firing, it will even run at 300rpm for a few seconds at full throttle but after a few backfires it knocks out.

 

 

I have looked at the distributor it would be great to have an electronic one for sure. The one I have is brand new, as well as the cap and the wires, and everything looks clean. I have checked all the plugs to make sure they are firing right.

 

My last theory was that perhaps the valves had gotten bent by the pistons when the cam was on wrong, but I just did a compression test and it was great. I figured that messed up valves would affect the compression, I could be wrong though I will have a look at them anyway. Besides that with a new carb, new ignition system and all new timing components besides the cam, I think I have ruled out everything I can think of.. I will keep tinkering with it for a while but I can't see any success coming out of that if I can't figure out what the problem is. Might just have to turn it in for the winter.

 

Do you mind if I asked where you sourced the new Distributor and Carburetor?



#38 Dirtyowlnumber4

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 01:34 AM

yup the pistons are in the right place at tdc. Don't know where the distributor came from I ordered it at oreilleys the carb I got off the internet 50 dollar sort of temporary deal. Not the greatest parts maybe but the engine was running smooth before I rebuilt it a few weeks ago. I might go ahead and buy a better carb like I had planned, but I don't know if that would fix it.. i will probably take it into the shop and see what they say.



#39 Cosmonaut

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 06:19 AM

Pm me, you need to replace that distributor and carburetor before you go any further.  I have enough to spare you what you need.



#40 Dirtyowlnumber4

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 07:20 PM

I saved up enough to buy a real redline carb, don't suppose that'll fix it but you never know. Unless I can pull something out, it'll be going into the shop on the 26th, ill let yall know what was wrong with it.