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#1 FiremarshalBill49

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Posted 25 November 2017 - 10:00 PM

Hey Guys,

 

I'm new to the forum and don't actually have a 620 yet.  I had a 73' many years ago and loved it, and I'm now considering purchasing a standard-cab/long-bed 74' that is currently in the process of being restored.  The seller would finish the restoration for me to MY specs. I'm really inclined toward a stock look, but was wondering what upgrades I might consider for comfort, safety, and reliability, such as:  Electronic ignition? Front disc brakes? 4-speed or 5-speed?  Interior upgrades? Bench seat or bucket seats? Any other suggested upgrades? What questions would you ask the builder? I'd really appreciate your thoughts.  Thanks.



#2 datzenmike

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Posted 25 November 2017 - 10:33 PM

The years are often mistaken, the long bed only came out at the beginning of the '75 model year. If the build date on the driver's door jam says Sept '74 to June '85 it's an '75 model year. If between Sept '73 and Aug '74 it's a '74 model .

 

Bucket seats are nice but tend to be quite thick and are better suited for a King Cab with more room. Check before you make the switch. Front disc brakes are worth it because the front drums do most of the stopping and really need to be adjusted every 6 months to keep them optimal. Disc brake need almost zero maintenance and no adjustment. If you primarily drive out on the highway a five speed is nice. If mostly in town it won't get used enough to be worth it. Electronic ignition is also nice as there is zero maintenance and no points to replace or constantly clean/adjust.


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#3 flatcat19

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Posted 26 November 2017 - 12:34 AM

Save your money and get a 78/79 king cab truck.

Already equipped with everything you'd want

You can't hang if your nuts haven't dropped...it's physics


#4 FiremarshalBill49

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Posted 26 November 2017 - 09:27 AM

My mistake. The truck is NOT a long-bed. The bed hooks have been shaved and to me it just appeared to be a long-bed in the bodywork photos. The seller says it'll come with a 4-speed and either an L20B or an 85' Z24 Nissan engine (my choice). Any recommendations there? Thanks.



#5 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 26 November 2017 - 09:38 AM

Running L20B or Z24?

 

Honestly, I'd take the L20B, but that's just me. Obviously the Z24 will have more punch.

 

See if you can get both and build yourself a LZ24.



#6 nl320what

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Posted 28 November 2017 - 09:07 AM

L20B for simplicity, electronic distributor, front disc brakes, and 5spd tranny.

 

If he is asking you what you want to do and you will pay for it, get the KA24E or KA24DE engine as it is better than the Z24 and newer with more power and bolts right in.

 

Either way you do want the front disc brakes and 5 spd tranny to drive comfortably in.


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#7 datzenmike

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Posted 28 November 2017 - 04:37 PM

KAs do fit with a lot of work and money, but hardly a 'bolt in'. 


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#8 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 07:33 AM

As far as engine swaps go, KA's into L powered vehicles are fairly straightforward. Calling them "bolt in" is an experienced person's way of telling you how easy they are. And a lot of parts do in fact, bolt in. With the right trans, the motor bolts to the bellhousing. With the right engine mounts, the block will bolt to the chassis.



#9 racerx

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 07:45 AM

Yep...you set it and forget it...and even cuts julian fries. Yep so easy...

#10 datzenmike

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 07:45 AM

Steve (]2eYeDe) has custom mounts for a 620. It's still a lot of work and for non owner a HUGE amount to pay someone to do for him. A KA will fit with about as much work as a Toyota R22 and transmission. Just about any 4 cylinder will fit the 620.

 

If the same price, I would go with the Z24. I had one in my 620 briefly. It pulls better than the L20B Truck was 3,400 lb and had a 4.11 diff.... it really needed it. 


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#11 racerx

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 10:20 AM

Boils down to how much you are willing to spend, skills, tools, time and how much heafaches are you willing to bare. Or else it will be another project that became a non starter then eventually u see it on Craigslist with a title, my lost your gain or went another route. Peeps really need to seriously think about this, it is a project after all.

#12 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 10:46 AM

I guess what I'm saying is that I wish all of my engine swaps were this easy. I have been doing a ton of LS swaps lately, and in most of my swaps, nothing bolts in, which means that everything is up to my judgement, and if I get it wrong, it's wrong big.

 

Mock up takes a huge amount of time, at least to do right. In some cases, I'll have an engine in and out of the truck 8 or 10 times before it's final.

 

A swap that begins with an engine that physically bolts into place makes the job so much easier.



#13 racerx

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 11:02 AM

/\..exactly, stoff has been doing this for years and he said it 8 -10 times in and out to make sure its dialed in.

#14 Lockleaf

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 08:41 PM

Hell just putting a z22 in my 510 I've had the engine in and out at least 4 times. And one more time at least will be necessary.

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#15 nl320what

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Posted 30 November 2017 - 05:58 AM

I guess what I'm saying is that I wish all of my engine swaps were this easy. I have been doing a ton of LS swaps lately, and in most of my swaps, nothing bolts in, which means that everything is up to my judgement, and if I get it wrong, it's wrong big.

 

Mock up takes a huge amount of time, at least to do right. In some cases, I'll have an engine in and out of the truck 8 or 10 times before it's final.

 

A swap that begins with an engine that physically bolts into place makes the job so much easier.

I mentioned it only because if he has a builder doing all the work for him and has an L or Z to install, id ask if he could go and locate a KA and spend a bit more for wiring and fuel upgrades to get it in there.

 

The smile on his face for the extra money on the KA will be worth it.


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I need NL320 Doors or complete L320 Doors to use, will barter:

NL Cab Corners, 320 Emblems, NL Fuel Filler/Door, NL Tailgate... & various hard to find other parts  :)


#16 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 30 November 2017 - 08:21 AM

Right. If I were swapping in a motor, I wouldn't waste my efforts on a Z series. I'd go with a KA.



#17 racerx

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Posted 30 November 2017 - 08:36 AM

Yep, gain on napz is minimal, with KA probably 50% gain. More gain more work, mo money. Nah, I will stay w my L18, till it takes a crap.

#18 FiremarshalBill49

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 12:27 PM

Still keeping my eyes open for a really nice stock or slightly modified 620 (under $9K).  I have until December 16th when I head down to look at having a Seattle area builder finish up a sweet little 74' for me, put together to my specs.  One last shout out here to any West Coast 620 owner looking to sell their super nice 620 I can feel confident about driving back to Washington State.  Any help out there with a lead?  Thanks!



#19 racerx

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 01:16 PM

Dang! With that kind of money, u should be able to get a clean, good running one.

#20 FiremarshalBill49

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 01:49 PM

Racerx, you'd think so, huh?  Unfortunately most all For Sale adds on the Internet are not dated so there's no way to tell if they're still available.  I've inquired about several, but those that even bothered to  answer were sold long ago.