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z24 motor


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L series pan will fit but be tilted slightly the wrong direction, still considered useable though. L series engine mount brackets can be flipped from side to side to tilt the motor the correct direction.

 

L series transmission will bolt up but be tilted way over to one side. So you can either bend your shifter to make it vertical, or you find a z series trans, which would add its own series of issues.

 

Likely doesn't have the mechanical fuel pump lobe on the cam or have the fuel pump opening machined out on the head. The opening is cast but not opened up. These could easily be opened up with a drill and a Dremel or files. Lobe is bolted to cam so that's easy to put in.

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If you intend to run it as a Z24 you will need

 

The engine brackets from the 720 and maybe having the rubbermounts as well won't hurt either.

 

A Z series 5 speed. L and Z series engines are about 18-20 degrees differently tilted. The Z series engine is way over to the left side and will try to twist the transmission over to the left shoving the shifter into your hip. The rubber mounts will fight each other and tear out. If you modify the transmission cross member to properly allow for the twist the L series transmission could work tilted. Bend the shifter and perhaps modify the hole in the floor. If you can only find a broken Z series transmission the front Z case can be swapped for the L series front case to convert it. All Z24s used a 240mm clutch so grab the release bearing collar or keep it if you keep the Z transmission. The collar is matched to the 240mm clutch. If it's an automatic you could put your L20B flywheel and clutch on and use your 620 collar. Just remember to keep the collar with the clutch it's mated to.

 

Is this '86 fuel injected??? Does the engine plate (on passenger side inner fender below the hood hinge) say Z24i???? this will be a lot more work than a carb Z24. I'll assume this is is a carb Z24

 

I don't know if the 720 rad will fit a 620 rad support, unlikely, so you will need to get a hose and pipe connection to the left side of your L series rad. The bottom will be so close it won't matter.

 

The 720 alternator is much larger than the 620 because it has more room. I would try putting the 620 alternator on the Z24 engine.

 

You will need two 720 coils or two '78 or newer 620 coils for the ignition. The 720 uses dual plugs per cylinder and an EI ignition so some wiring needs doing. Totally do able... I did it.

 

Install a much longer 720 throttle cable.

 

You will need to graft the Z24 exhaust down pipe to your exhaust. The 720 down pipe to the cat might just fit the 620.

 

The Z24 does not have a mechanical fuel pump, so get the electric one from the 720 OR drill and hog out a hole for the L series pump arm. The mounting bolts are still there and used for things like power steering pump mount that you won't be needing. the fuel line to the Z24 carb is up from under the middle of the Z intake and the fitting has the return line right on it.

 

Keep in mind that this is a later KA24E head but Z24 is similar. Has stud holes already threaded so drill hole....

 

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And hog it out large enough for the L series mechanical fuel pump. You will need to put an L series fuel pump excentric on the front of the Z24 cam sprocket.

 

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If you want a driver it will fit, I put a 521 cab onto a 720 chassis/drive train and it drove fine, the guy that bought it from me called me once about what brake booster I used as the one on it failed, I asked him how he liked it and he was positive.

That all said my work truck engine(LZ23) will kick that Z24s ass, they were both about the same starting out, but on the freeway my work truck that weighs 3400lbs will walk away from that 521 Z24 powered engine with a new Weber carb.

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Volume 1.4 liters per minute, or less and 2.7-3.4 PSI

 

Will SUs work with that pressure, or will I need a pressure regulator?

 

I suppose I could weld shut the end of a short piece of metal line and then drill a 1/16th inch hole threw the weld on the end, or maybe I could find the piece I need in the wrecking yard.

What did the Z24 use to control fuel pressure, maybe I already have what I need in the scrap pile.

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The pump controls the pressure just like the L series mechanical one does. The return line does not do this. The hole remains the same size and is just a small 'leak' to circulate fuel. The pump would easily over take this leak and keep the pressure the same.

 

I don't know how sensitive the SUs are to fuel pressure. I don't think it's really an issue at 3 PSI

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The pump controls the pressure just like the L series mechanical one does. The return line does not do this. The hole remains the same size and is just a small 'leak' to circulate fuel. The pump would easily over take this leak and keep the pressure the same.

 

I don't know how sensitive the SUs are to fuel pressure. I don't think it's really an issue at 3 PSI

The whole point is that I am going to move the work truck cab to a 1986 Nissan 720 frame/chassis, it has the fuel pump plumbed to the tank and it is working, I was just going to wire the pump to run full time without any of the 86 wiring or relays as I am going to use a 1980 Datsun 720 wiring harness.

Do you see any issues here?

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No. I guess just wire the pump to the ignition. I put my 620 on an '82 frame and did basically this.

 

Later 720s have a fuel pump relay that is held on (once started) as long as the engine is running regardless of the ignition switch. Handy in an accident.

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