Wayne, you have a great recipe, but like any recipe if you don't follow through with ALL the ingredients, its not going too turn out well. This is one that won't work if you put a stock worn distributor in it. A heavy stock flywheel also won't allow it to perform as it should. Shave that flywheel down to 16 lbs and have it balanced. Then you need a distributor set up to run at 14-16 degrees BTDC at idle with an advance curve that won't ping like crazy at 2700 rpm. Unshroud the valves in the head so they can breathe clear out to the cylinder walls. Remove anything remotely close to a sharp edge on the valves, in the chamber, and lightly bevel the edge of the bore. Make the edge/head of the exhaust valve round. Then time the cam to 107/108 Intake CL and you'll have a strong puller without needing race fuel. You will likely need premium or at least non-oxy real fuel.
The head on it has less than a couple thousand miles on it, the block has unknown miles but I listened to it run in a shop, it sounded alright as a Z20 with a carb, the guy had nice cars in that shop, one was a 1970ish GT 6 cylinder Triumph as I recall.
I am just going to see if it will run, I will be out some gaskets and time, the rest was just sitting around here taking up space, now it is all in one spot as the engine is fully assembled and has been for a few weeks now.
I didn't understand half of what you said above, I believe that having the distributor advance less than stock is likely a good idea, but how to do that is rocket science to me, likely it has something to do with stronger springs(a guess), I will not lighten a flywheel unless I know it is going to work, then I might spend money on that.
As for the un-shrouding of things, well that's more rocket science to me, it has the stock valves with hardened seats, it has a brand new RV cam in it, my machinist told me not to do it, but I thought it might breath better, he was right, I lost torque which I needed, so I had him rebuild my first super head(big valves/stock cam/port matched to SU manifold) and I put together my first LZ23, this head stayed on the L20b engine and that was installed in my 520 ute project, didn't like the cam in that either, so I had the shop rebuild the 219 head I had and I installed that on the L20b, it then was slightly better off the line, but then DMike posted that photo of a properly timed cam, so I went out and re-timed that cam and the engine has more power now, and it drives better all around, I also re-timed the cam on the work truck, it has slightly more power, but it uses WAY LESS GAS, that is what I have noticed the most, way better mileage.
When you start throwing numbers at me about cam timing, well that is French to me, I don't speak French, if I can get it to run at all I then will start changing things, if it will run and move the vehicle down the block and back, I will then think about doing more to it, I have no idea what timing the cam to 107/108 intake CL is.
This is the engine.