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Aaron's 1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory


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#21 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 01 December 2017 - 11:13 AM

You try a imming light?maybe dist of off and or offa tooth on oil spindal

 

fuel filter I would have got on a car that has sitting outside a long time(drain the tank)

 

 

I didnt see a need to rip it all apart/I bet I could have pour gas in the carb to see if it would fire.

 

post are too long. too detailed on stuff that dont need detail

 

just get to the main points.

 

adjust valves, carb works, timming , fuel delivery , have spark.


Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#22 the510keeper

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Posted 01 December 2017 - 11:48 AM

What a killer score, have fun with it



#23 Busta Nut

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Posted 01 December 2017 - 12:29 PM

:thumbup:


The Loogie (Parting Out :bye:)       5Teezy(Revived)      KiwiMelon (The Father/Daughter Project) 

 

 

 

Datsun Life... crapface page.......

 

 


#24 Aaron Datsun

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Posted 01 December 2017 - 06:53 PM

You try a imming light?maybe dist of off and or offa tooth on oil spindal
 
fuel filter I would have got on a car that has sitting outside a long time(drain the tank)
 
 
I didnt see a need to rip it all apart/I bet I could have pour gas in the carb to see if it would fire.
 
post are too long. too detailed on stuff that dont need detail
 
just get to the main points.
 
adjust valves, carb works, timming , fuel delivery , have spark.

I let my timing light be borrowed. I got it back and that is where I noticed my timing seems like it is off, but the car is running way to well to believe the timing is that far off. I am pretty sure I am just reading the timing wrong.

Also I agree the posts are really long. I am attempting to be very detailed if that is off putting people should be able to read the To Do list for the day, and look at pictures and videos if so desired. I do really appreciate the honest feedback

1975 280z Turbo with MS1 MSNSe (Garage Queen)
1993.5 Infiniti G20 (The beater) SOLD
1979 Datsun 210 (The basket case) SOLD
2003 VW Passat Wagon SOLD
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon SOLD

1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory


#25 Aaron Datsun

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 08:59 PM

Project Log (19 Nov 17): Part two

Start Time: 2000L

End Time: 2225L

 

To Do (Daily): None made, just continued work from earlier

- Replaced brake Master Cylinder, went to bleed brakes, rear passenger’s side bleeder valve broken off. Will have to remove

- The part run was $55.93. Two biggest items were fuel line and coolant

- Considered doing the rear disc swap so I don’t have to deal with broken bleeder valve

Author’s Note: Decided against doing the swap based on the desire to do a bearing change when I do the swap

-  Removed check valve from master cylinder based on internet reading (author’s note: I drew a picture of the check valve in the note book)

-  When installing the Master Cylinder I found metal shavings in one of the check valves

-  Clutch fluid checked, it is disgusting

-  I am not 100% sure installed the push rod correctly

-  I bench bled the master cylinder

 

Notes:

-  I am hoping to get it driving under its own power by next Saturday under its own power (25 Nov 17)

-  Thanksgiving is this week, doubt I will get much accomplished prior to Thanksgiving.

 

Images: Next Set of Updates

Links to Timelapse: Combined with next couple updates


1975 280z Turbo with MS1 MSNSe (Garage Queen)
1993.5 Infiniti G20 (The beater) SOLD
1979 Datsun 210 (The basket case) SOLD
2003 VW Passat Wagon SOLD
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon SOLD

1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory


#26 Aaron Datsun

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 09:04 PM

Project Log (22 Nov 17):

Start Time: 1700L

End Time: 2300L

Introduction Paragraph

Received the new wheel cylinders from O’Reilly’s yesterday. I decided to get the car driving before swapping the brakes. I also didn’t want to do the rear wheel bearings yet, and those should really be done while you are swapping the rear brakes.

-  Took off the wheels for the rear wheels for the first time today. The rear has an unneeded spacer on it, perhaps to push it out to align with the front?

   o   Author’s Note: It was needed, which I learned when I put it all back together

-  I am sure you noticed that I have not been accomplishing everything on my to do lists, which is a common theme in my life, I decided it is most important to get the car starting and stopping before I leave for two weeks.

 

To Do (Daily):              

1. þ Install Passenger’s rear wheel cylinder

2. þ Install Driver’s rear wheel cylinder

3. ¨ Bleed Rear Brakes

4. þ Flush Brakes

5. þRe-Install Wheels

6. ¨ Check Idle RPM

7. þ Clean the backseat (later addition)

 

1. The brakes came apart easily. The brake line did not come apart easily. I heated the fitting at least two times and hit it with penetrating fluid to get it to break loose. I still spun off the nut and will eventually need to replace that hardline (when I replace the rear drums with discs). I did not want to use the vice grips to break it loose, but it definitely forced my hand. Again it will get swapped when I swap the brakes.

   - The brakes are pretty easy to disassemble , just remember to remove the hand brake cable, and use a bolt to pop the drum loose

   - I had to re-install the cylinder because I forgot to run the rubber boot at least once

2. Took off the wheel and most of the brake parts very easily. This is when I determined the spacer was actually needed on the wheel; that is unfortunate.  

   - When attempting to remove the hardline, I broke it. I am stuck until I fix that.

   - I attempted to heat and cool the hard line at least two times. The nut was rusted to the hard line to bad and it finally broke the hardline about an inch from the nut

   - This is what happens when you don’t soak parts overnight

   - Just realized after I cleaned up my tools that I can still put the whole thing back together without that hard line, realized this @ 2131L. Hope you get a kick out of me realizing that

   - The brakes went back together way easier on the driver’s side than on the passengers

3. By the time I broke the hard line all of the parts stores were closed so there was no way to bleed the brakes

4. I was able to flush the rear brake lines even with the giant hole in the brake line

    - The fluid came out a terrible rusty color

5. When re-installing the wheels I realized the spacers were needed to run the wheels, but more importantly the spacers leave almost no thread engagement with the lugs and studs that are currently on the car

   - This to me is a danger and I will be working to fix this very soon

6. I decided not to start to determine the idle RPM tonight, will do that tomorrow on Thanksgiving

7. Cleaned the backseat with the same leather cleaner I used on the Buick it really cleaned up the back seat upholstery quite well.

 

Notes:

   - My kids Olivia and Cooper helped today doing the bleeding. Cooper actually helped quite a bit today when I was installing the passenger’s wheel cylinder I hope he learned something I explained how brakes worked with him. 

   o I am thankful for Cooper and Olivia helping it was sweet

   o I am also grateful that I am actually able to have a project car

   - Took a break from 1900-2000L

   - I measured the rear cross member pass-through for the exhaust. The inner diameter is 2.5”. That means that I can comfortably run a 2.25” diameter exhaust.

   o The current exhaust is 1.5” diameter

   - Checked under the back seat and brought of the center seat belt buckles that were missing

   - I am quite pleased with the work done today.

 

Images: Next one

 

Links to Timelapse: Next Update


1975 280z Turbo with MS1 MSNSe (Garage Queen)
1993.5 Infiniti G20 (The beater) SOLD
1979 Datsun 210 (The basket case) SOLD
2003 VW Passat Wagon SOLD
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon SOLD

1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory


#27 Aaron Datsun

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 09:18 PM

Project Log (23 Nov 17):

Start Time: 0900L

End Time: 1215L

 

It is Thanksgiving today. I checked online and there was an AutoZone open a few miles from my house. While I don’t really love those shops having to open, I most certainly took advantage of it.

 

To Do (Daily):

1. þ Bleed rear brakes

2. þ Flush old fluid from front brakes

3. þ Bleed front brakes

4. þ Flush old fluid and bleed clutch

5. þ Adjust and set up idle

 

1.  AutoZone did not have just the line to bend and cut to purchase in my size (3/16th Inch). So I bought a premade length with flares and fittings. It was a 20” line which is a bit long. I added extra bends to make it work. It attached very easily and should work well enough until I swap in the new rear brakes. Total cost was about $5.50

   - I would like to redo all the lines in the car in the future to ensure I have no issues in the future

2.  Nothing really to it. Both bleeder screws worked great. The fluid came out very rust colored, but was much easier than the rears.

3. This was also very simple took about 15 minutes per side. I believe one of the front brakes is a bit frozen, but with some use I think it will start working better. If the brakes don’t start working better I will look for a caliper rebuild kit for the front. Usually they aren’t very expensive on Rock Auto

4. Cleaned out the clutch master cylinder, it was pure black. Replaced the fluid and tried to bleed at the slave cylinder. The bleeder valve was completely corroded closed. So I removed the bleeder valve completely and it still would not push fluid out. I unclogged it with a tooth pick and then when the fluid started coming out I replaced the bleeder valve

5. I spent time reading Weber’s website to determine steps to correctly set idle. According to the website: (please read all before starting)

   1. Back idle screw to where it isn’t touching throttle

      a. Actuate throttle to ensure it isn’t touching throttle

      b. Turn Back until touching throttle stop

      c. Turn additional 1.5 turns

   2. Adjust fuel idle mixture screw all the way in (Do not over tighten)

      a. Turn back out 2 full turns

3. Start car

4. Adjust idle mixture screw in/out until car is running smoothly (by ear tuning)

5. Adjust idle speed screw to desired engine speed

   o Note: Prop open choke, check timing after, enjoy life

 

-  I have alluded to this several times while writing. It was at this point I determined I had switched cylinder 3/4 spark plug wires with each other. Holy cow this thing runs MUCH better on all 4 cylinders rather than just two.

 

Notes:

-   Adjusted push rod for the brakes, I had forgot to tighten the jam nut

-   The wheels have to go. The spacers really make this car unsafe in my opinion

-   I am going to work to hook up old exhaust before moving the car out of the garage, I also need to burn off the old gas before long so I can get newer nice fuel in it

-   There seems to be a coolant leak (a new task!) and I don’t know if the thermostat is working (thermostat)

-   Front passenger’s dust cap is missing, and that is no bueno

-    I found goof spots for the jack stand

Images:

25103579128_a0e9a9a6fd_k.jpg

27197391589_92e0089db7_k.jpg

24158708897_e042ec4c67_b.jpg

The Exact moment I broke the line:

25103584828_06d6339dd5_k.jpg

25103583148_3f871588ef_k.jpg

27197389189_949229d8de_k.jpg

25103581268_7c91428d37_k.jpg

 

27197382669_21edd2af83_h.jpg

27197382189_ffc25f5a2e_h.jpg

 

 

TimeLapse: 


1975 280z Turbo with MS1 MSNSe (Garage Queen)
1993.5 Infiniti G20 (The beater) SOLD
1979 Datsun 210 (The basket case) SOLD
2003 VW Passat Wagon SOLD
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon SOLD

1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory


#28 The Taterhead

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Posted 13 December 2017 - 10:39 AM

Loving the detailed posts. Can really get a feel for what's going on.
Roads? Where we're goin' we don't need roads!

#29 KELMO

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Posted 13 December 2017 - 11:20 AM

^^^what he said.  Also dig the time lapse.


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#30 Aaron Datsun

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Posted 26 December 2017 - 10:09 PM

I have not been idle, but holy cow work has been crazy lately so getting videos edited and my super long internal monologues typed takes time. I actually have the next video done too. I will be typing up the notes over the next week and will post up soonish.

 

Project Log (24 Nov 17):

Start Time: 0930L

End Time: 1200L

 

Today was a light day. I just mainly cleaned the garage and worked to attach the exhaust. I wanted to get this car out of the garage so the wife could park in the garage while I was away for work for a few weeks. Mission Accomplished.

 

To Do (Daily):

1. þ Hook up exhaust

2. þ Clean up garage

3. þ Measure wheels and brakes

 

1. The exhaust was fairly easy to hook up. I am grateful that my pack rat nature didn’t allow me to throw out old Datsun bolts over the years. I was able to only attach with 2/3 bolts. I also attempted to use the exhaust gasket that came in the kit. It did not fit, so I removed and set to the side, as it would have definitely leaked. The circular holes were not big enough on the gasket

 

2. Put away tools, swept, and put up Christmas lights. Found the bolts for the Datsun 240z seats that came with the 510; will hopefully sell those this weekend.  

 

3. Measured offset/backspacing as well as brake fitment for FutoFab front brakes. Current wheel backspacing is 5.25” with the spacer the backspacing is right around 4.8”.

  - I am not comfortable with the wheels running that close to the suspension.

  - Planning on getting the offset closer to the 4.5” point (with no spacer, I don’t want to run a spacer)

  - Brake assembly is massive w/ needed inside room of ~14” total. A 16” wheel is probably a safer bet than a 15”

 

Notes:

  - I did get the seats sold that weekend. One less thing in the garage and more money to fix the little things in the project.

 

Images: No images really today. The timelapse will have to do.

 

Timelapse: 


1975 280z Turbo with MS1 MSNSe (Garage Queen)
1993.5 Infiniti G20 (The beater) SOLD
1979 Datsun 210 (The basket case) SOLD
2003 VW Passat Wagon SOLD
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon SOLD

1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory


#31 Aaron Datsun

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Posted 28 December 2017 - 09:45 AM

While I am a few weeks behind on getting my videos and other stuff done. I got my tags today so now I can drive her!

1975 280z Turbo with MS1 MSNSe (Garage Queen)
1993.5 Infiniti G20 (The beater) SOLD
1979 Datsun 210 (The basket case) SOLD
2003 VW Passat Wagon SOLD
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon SOLD

1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory


#32 Aaron Datsun

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Posted 30 December 2017 - 03:57 PM

Driver's side rear door

24531266297_507164ce43_k.jpg

38688993184_453f71d9e5_k.jpg
Driver's Rear
39366828792_cf84ae909a_k.jpg


Driver's Front Fender

24531358217_bc47e8a6b8_k.jpg

Passenger's Side rear Door
39396853361_17c77bcb15_k.jpg



Passenger's side Rear
38519008705_c8f2385133_k.jpg

1975 280z Turbo with MS1 MSNSe (Garage Queen)
1993.5 Infiniti G20 (The beater) SOLD
1979 Datsun 210 (The basket case) SOLD
2003 VW Passat Wagon SOLD
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon SOLD

1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory


#33 BambooU

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 04:52 PM

Very cool project. I look forward to how you tackle the rust.



#34 Aaron Datsun

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 10:29 AM

Very cool project. I look forward to how you tackle the rust.


I will be honest, I am dreading it. I have never done it, but I did buy some tools the other day so I can start tackling the rust. I have been doing some work, but haven't been keeping up with the updates very well so here is the latest.
 

Project Log (25 Nov 17):

Start Time: Not Recorded

End Time: Not Recorded

Today I got the tires mounted on the Datsun Iron Cross rims. I need the car to get running so I can move it out of the garage, because I will be gone for 2 weeks for work.\

I ended up going to Walmart & got some cheap all season tires to mount on the car. Brought the wheels home and mounted them and moved it outside.

Because I didn’t have a front dust cap I used a spray paint lid to cover the front wheel bearings, until I could get a dust cap for the car (I have no center caps for the wheels).

 

Project Log (09 Dec 17):

Start Time: Not Recorded

End Time: Not Recorded

Left for two weeks, I got a parking ticket for no tag on the car, and two tires went flat. The wife is amazing, took the wheels off the car, took them to walmart to get them sealed with some goop, and then moved the car into the garage.

Work is crazy and I have been away more than I have been home lately so little work is getting done on the car.

 

Project Log (14 Dec 17):

Start Time: Not Recorded

End Time: Not Recorded

When I got back from my trip I met Yenpit who was awesome enough to show me around his shop, and to give me a set of dust caps. I also traded my XXRs for a set of 17” wheels that were a better offset. I got the wheels home and they were in fact the EXACT same offset as my old wheels. I should have measured I was in a hurry and it was my own fault so now I have a set of 17” wheels I don’t even like as much as the XXRs and aren’t worth as much. I am usually pretty good at trades, every once in a while you just lose.


1975 280z Turbo with MS1 MSNSe (Garage Queen)
1993.5 Infiniti G20 (The beater) SOLD
1979 Datsun 210 (The basket case) SOLD
2003 VW Passat Wagon SOLD
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon SOLD

1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory


#35 Aaron Datsun

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 10:50 AM

Project Log (17 Dec 17):

Start Time: 1500L

End Time: 1745L

Today I wanted to install the dust caps and determine if the mechanical fuel pump is still good. I also want this to be a daily driver so I am wanting a radio so I want to determine if I can swap in a stereo I already have that will at least give me aux-input.

 

To Do (Daily):

1. þ Add Dust Cap to Passenger’s side front wheel

2. þ Check mechanical Fuel Pump

3. ¨ Replace radio with updated radio

 

1. This was pretty straight forward. I remoed the front passenger’s side tire, removed the remporary dust cap (spray paint lid) and then used a very large socket and a rubber mallet to tap the dust cap into place. Then put the wheel back on.

  • To clean the dust cap I used a wire wheel attached to my cordless drill
  • I have center caps for these wheels but they are in Kansas

 

2. Pulled the mechanical fuel pump next. I didn’t see anything wrong with it so I went ahead and re-installed it and tried it out. It seems to work (Author’s note: as of 13 Jan 18, the car is stumbling on hard acceleration, this could be the mechanical fuel pump or I could be getting low on fuel, only time will tell)

  • The mechanical fuel pump is held on by 2, 12 mm bolts
  • Dumped the old gas out
  • Replaced the old fuel filter
  • Re-installed mechanical fuel pump
  • Ran the fuel hose without cutting it down (will need to shorten later after I determine it does work well)
  • Disconnected electric pump from battery
  • Attempted to start the car
  • Car started right up
  • Removed the electric pump
  • Adjusted idle

 

3. Removed radio face plate and looked at it. I had to leave in about 30 minutes so I threw it all back together and went inside

I am hoping to get the car tagged soon, the wife wants/needs her garage spot back, and I want to drive this car

 

Notes: (Section for statements at the end of the day that don’t follow the to do)

-  Future Projects (wants)

  • Tachometer
  • Vinyl 510 emblems
  • Relocate battery to the trunk

- I also attempted to remove the slack from the ignition coil mount so I could remove the paper “gasket” around the coil, but it will not tighten enough to keep the coil secured, so I left it alone for now

 

Images: N/A

Links to Timelapse: https://www.youtube....EvCo3Otv7SUO5Xa


1975 280z Turbo with MS1 MSNSe (Garage Queen)
1993.5 Infiniti G20 (The beater) SOLD
1979 Datsun 210 (The basket case) SOLD
2003 VW Passat Wagon SOLD
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon SOLD

1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory


#36 BambooU

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 03:41 PM

The rust is definitely the hard part. I have bad rust on both my rear corners. I'm having them cut out by a friend of mine and new panels put  on. From your pictures, the rust is in similar places. Some of it may be worth taking out and replacing metal, if you have the tools. 

 

Have you taken a look at the floorpans? Chances are if you have rust where you do, you may have a few pinholes there. Maybe that's just my car, though... 

 

Lovin' the videos.



#37 Ratwagon1600

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 06:18 PM

Different!

 

Like the vids and good narrative.

 

Well done.


Hahahaha RW bring called an ass kisser is awesome. Don't know him personally but he always seemed belligerent, not brown nosey.

You have standards?

detective ratwagon


#38 Aaron Datsun

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Posted 20 February 2018 - 06:41 PM

Working on the stereo today. I want to replace my radio with a CD player that has an auxiliary input

 

To Do (Daily):

1.  þ Remove old radio
2.  þ Inspect Wring
3.  þ Mount New Radio
4.  þ Re-assemble

1.  The old radio came out easily. The stock dash hadn’t even been cut up so it pained me a bit to cut it, but it is my car. The radio was secured with the side mounts and volume/tune knobs as well as a metal strap on the back. The radio wire was very cleanly done so I attempted to preserve that

 

2. The radio was wired in with a nice adapter so I left that along. There is definitely extra wiring , but it is so well bundled that I am not going to trim out the extra right now. Of note there is a speaker in the middle of the dash that is not currently hooked up to anything. In the future I will likely remove that speaker.
- The front and rear grounds are tired together on the wiring
- There is a spot for a dash light on the 510 that literally has nothing hooked up to it
- Using the existing wiring and the wiring diagram, I made the old adapter work with the car without cutting into the stock wiring harness
- Wiring was WAY better than I was expecting
- I soldered the entire harness so it should last a good long time

 

3. To mount the stereo I used the side tabs that were located on the side of the old radio. I mounted them but realized on test fit that my stereo was sitting way father back so I had to mount the tabs much farther back.

- Had to cut the original plastic to let the front of the radio poke through the dash

 

Accomplished this by measuring dimensions of stereo
Cutting a paper template
Taping to desired spot on the back of the plastic
Using white spray paint, I lightly painted the back of the plastic to give a negative of where I wanted not to cut (originally I used markers, I couldn’t see my marks very well so I used paint)
I didn’t have any dremel cut off wheels so I used a hacksaw blade and carefully cut along the lines. This definitely took patience
To turn the corners I drilled pilot holes (3x) to get my hack saw blade in and then cut down
Finished it all off with files and sand paper to smooth all the cuts

 

-  The cutout is very clean and I cut it with minimal extra space around the sides so I think it looks really good
-  I ended up having to weld the side mounting tabs onto the stereo itself, 3 medium tac welds per side
-  Had to add a new mounting holes to the side tabs because the old radio was slightly larger than the new stereo

 

4. The stereo and dash went back together very easily. It looks relly good in there, and now I can listen to my tunes. 
 

Notes:
- Bonus: I found my Relient K album that I thought I lost YEARS ago, turns out I left it in the stereo when I removed it from my 280z probably about 8 years ago
- The speakers in it are super crappy so I will likely look for nicer replacements in the coming months

 

Single Image: 

38591738180_a52e9ca2f0_h.jpg

 

 


1975 280z Turbo with MS1 MSNSe (Garage Queen)
1993.5 Infiniti G20 (The beater) SOLD
1979 Datsun 210 (The basket case) SOLD
2003 VW Passat Wagon SOLD
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon SOLD

1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory


#39 Aaron Datsun

Aaron Datsun

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  • Location:Aurora Colorado
  • Cars:75 280z turbo. 1972 510

Posted 22 February 2018 - 11:18 AM

Project Log (10 Jan  18):

Start Time: 1300L

End Time: 1530L

 

I finally got tags so I can drive the 510 daily. It is missing quite a bit under acceleration I don’t know whether this is a low fuel issues (I have never fueled it up, I am trying to burn the old fuel off)

To Do (Daily):

 

1. þ Mount Horn Button

2. ¨ Get long battery cables from the junkyard

 

1. Cut into the horn button mount additional slots to mount behind the steering wheel so I could mount the horn button, I used my dremel to slot it. I actually bought some cut off wheels so it was pretty easy to do.

- Mark spots to drill pilot holes

- Drill pilot holes

- Cut down to pilot holes with dremel

- Mount

- Install horn button

2. I went to the junk yard and pulled two long battery cables. One from a 3 series BMW and another from a Volvo S60. The S60 was much harder. It also has a nice power distribution box. That will be good to use in other projects. The pieces were about $6.50 plus the cost to get into the UpullandPay. I will be using these to mount the battery in the trunk.

Notes: The car is running and driving which makes me less likely to work on the flaws and just enjoy driving it. But there is definitely some work I need to get done in the next couple months below I broke out the near term and mid-term goals for the car. I also ordered all of the wheel bearings so I can do the coilover swaps, as well as the rear brake swap.

 

-  Short Term (before Feb 20)

o   Battery Relocation

o   Coilovers installed

o   Check fuel tank

o   Fix the stumble

o   Tighten shifter linkage so it doesn’t wander as much

-  Mid Term (End of April)

o   Fix exhaust (add a gasket, and add a muffler)

o   Find small oil leak and fix if possible

o   Wire tuck (purely cosmetic)

o   Swap rear brakes

 

Images: N/A

Links to Timelapse: N/A


1975 280z Turbo with MS1 MSNSe (Garage Queen)
1993.5 Infiniti G20 (The beater) SOLD
1979 Datsun 210 (The basket case) SOLD
2003 VW Passat Wagon SOLD
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon SOLD

1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory


#40 Aaron Datsun

Aaron Datsun

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 661 posts
  • Location:Aurora Colorado
  • Cars:75 280z turbo. 1972 510

Posted 27 February 2018 - 05:56 PM

Project Log (13 Jan 18):

Start Time: 0900

End Time: 0945
I want to get the shifter tighter. It is very hard to tell where I am shifting to currently.

To Do (Daily):

  1. Remove shifter coverings
  2.  Remove Clip and pin
  3. Create shim
  4. Install shim
  5. Reassemble

1. In the past the shifter boot had been spilt so there was no need to remove the shift knob, everything past that was just moving carpet and insulation out of the way.

2. The pin is held on by a C-Clip. I removed it easily and almost lost it onto the transmission, had to use a magnet to get it out. The pin slid right out

  • An assessment of the shifter it appears there isn’t an excessive amount of play in the shifter, it is just a terrible design

3.  For the shim I tried 2 different washers, both were too thick to slide in, I then tried to make a shim from an aluminum can, which seemed to be much closer to the desired width

4. There was NO installing a shim. The aluminum kept folding over and not going in. I gave up, and put it all back together. This problem will be solved when I install the 280zx 5-speed transmission some day

5. Everything went together just fine. With C-Clips you have to be careful not to drop it before it is fully in place or you might lose it

Notes:

  • I failed to actually accomplish anything today
  • I would like a new shift knob at some point and time, this one is ugly and messed up

Images: Nope

Links to Timelapse: None today


1975 280z Turbo with MS1 MSNSe (Garage Queen)
1993.5 Infiniti G20 (The beater) SOLD
1979 Datsun 210 (The basket case) SOLD
2003 VW Passat Wagon SOLD
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon SOLD

1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory