datzenmike Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 There was a guy from Florida with a worn pin who complained about sloppy shift. The wear was hardly noticeable but may have translated to a larger movement on the shifter. Maybe the pin is loose? That would be an easy fix if it were. The pin looks very much like the one holding the shifter on Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 So I'm missing a roll pin for my shift rod (probably). Thanks Mike. Diagnosis is the hardest part. I should have the motor and trans out reasonably soon and will address it then. In the meantime, am I risking catastrophic damage by driving it this way? Not necessarily. It can break, but still grab enough to shift. If this is the problem, it will eventually fail completely. Catastrophic failure? Maybe,. The pin can fall into the gears, but it usually gets chewed up without any other damage. If installing new pins, look around for "dual roll pins" where it has one inside the other. They are much stronger. Google it and you'll find other threads discussing where to get them, or just go to McMaster Carr and pick for yourself. Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted November 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 I'll check the pin on the outside of the trans first and hopefully get to pulling the motor/trans sooner rather than later and hope nothing falls apart. Thanks guys. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 Good luck. Hopefully you find something. Nothing is worse than having a problem you can't find. 1 Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted November 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 I had a chance to look at that pin and e clip. It slides back and forth in its hole about 1/8th of an inch but is not sloppy up and down. The pin on my 4 speed outside my truck is firmly in place. Could this be my issue? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 Yes, it.... might be. Leave the shifter in the neutral gate and pull the E clip off and push the pin out and look at it. The pin might be badly worn. It rides in a groove in the striking rod guide. This groove is such that the striking rod has limited rocking motion side to side (first/second gate on the left and the fifth/reverse gate on the right) before hitting the pin. The pin prevents any forward or backward movement of the striking guide. 2 Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted November 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 If I can get to the pin while the trans is installed in the truck I'll swap the one from my 4 speed and see if that fixes the problem Thanks again, Mike 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 That pin keeps the rod from sliding back and forth, but it doesn't account for the hard left the shifter makes when he puts it in 5th. I still think a broken shift fork is the likely culprit. 1 Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted November 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 Hopefully that isn't the case. It feels good in 1st through 4th, isn't that evidence against a broken fork? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 That pin keeps the rod from sliding back and forth, but it doesn't account for the hard left the shifter makes when he puts it in 5th. I still think a broken shift fork is the likely culprit. It does keep it (the striker guide)from moving forward and back but does allow some left and right movement of the striking rod else you wouldn't be able it go left for 1st and 2nd or the far right for 5th and reverse. I'm theorizing that wear could allow the shifter to go too far to the right for 5th and when the shifter is released it simply flops toward and against 3rd. If the pin is worn it can be replaced if it's the striker guide it's not as simple. 2 Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted November 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 It doesn't appear that the pin is to blame. The pin in my 4 speed moves the same way and it didn't have a similar problem 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 I was hoping the pin was damaged or grooved. Oh well. 2 Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted November 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 I'll have to do some research and open it up when I pull the motor and trans in a bit. Thank you for the help, I'll post some photos here for you when I get it pulled apart. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 4, 2017 Report Share Posted November 4, 2017 Give us a shout if you need help pulling the cases off the trans. It can be tricky. Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted November 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2017 I will! Thanks Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted November 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 Hi there guys. Resurrecting this thread. I have the following done in an internally regulated alternator swapped in to replace the original one. I installed a 1991 hardbody alternator (unsure of brand, off the shelf from O'Reilly) 60amp and it fit great. Wired the alternator up, unplugged and removed the voltage regulator, made a pigtail wit the plug that connects the white/black wire to the white/red wire, and the yellow wire to the white wire. The others are hanging free not connected to anything. I also unplugged the choke relay. I have SU's so the wires to the carburetor aren't connected to anythingMy problem is that the battery is draining. I was excited to see everything working yesterday, but the battery was dead today. With the motor running the battery is showing almost 15 volts, and 12 with the motor off.Any ideas? here are some photos of the current wiring: [/url]">http:// Pigtail [/url]">http:// ">[/url] Choke relay unplugged (i think thats the choke relay at least based on my wiring diagram in my manual) [/url]">http://http://s1253.photobucket.com/user/erickwithnok/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20171109_173734_zpskyyfzm9e.jpg.html'> Wires beneath carbs are the red white and blue wires that used to run to the stock hitachi carb Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 10, 2017 Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 http://community.ratsun.net/topic/57488-voltage-regulator-removalwith-internal-regulator-altinator/ This is the trouble with double posting. It's hard to keep track of answers when they are made. Get those wires soldered and shrink wrap covered. Loose the other wires. Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted November 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 Sorry about the double post. You're saying just pull the extra two wires out of the back of my pigtail? I'm not sure what plastic plug in the back of the alternator you're referencing. As I remove each fuse, how do i see if there's a draw on the battery? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 10, 2017 Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 Leave only the two wires you have joined. The others are not needed and may touch something. Solder those connections at least. Vibration will loosen twisted together wires. Shrink wrap is much more secure.... and looks better. There is a two wire plug in the back of the alternator besides a Black ground wire and a White/Red power wire. I expect the alternator is the problem. How did you determine how these two wires fit the KA alternator? The plugs are different. This plug... ...to this plug... Get a $4 test lamp and connect between the negative battery cable and the battery post. If there is a draw it will light up. Pull fuses until it goes out. Are you sure it's discharging? Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted November 10, 2017 Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 One of those small wires needs to be a 12V supply, the other feeds the dash light. Are they hooked up properly? Does the dash light come on before you start the truck, then go out after its started? If so, the alternator is working properly and I'd look at other things like the stereo that may be draining power via its memory wire - typically yellow or red. 1 Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted November 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 I cut the original plug into two separate plugs with a dremel, and the remaining plastic worked well as a plug to the KA alternator. I think think the alternator is hooked up properly. I only started it once since the change and don't remember if the charge light came on when I turned the key on, I only remember that it was off while the motor was running. Can I ask what the 12v supply to the alternator is for? I have the stock AM radio and no aftermarket electrical components aside from the new alternator. Mike suggested it could be a faulty alternator which I would totally believe, but how would a faulty alternator drain the battery with the car off Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted November 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 I have a multimeter I'll use that to test for battery draw? Thanks for the help guys. I'll get a good picture of my custom plug when I'm home, jump the truck so I can see the charge light is working properly, and start pulling fuses. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 10, 2017 Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 The alternator is connected to ground and the positive side of the battery. All you need is a failing diode in the rectifier. I have driven (KA alt.) with the sense wire and the charge light wire reversed for several years. Never noticed that the red charge light was not working. Only after I added a voltage gauge did I notice something odd. I swapped the two wires back to correct and now I have the red light. Like I said it worked without any problems for years wired wrong. Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted November 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 So since the alt is made from cheap parts, a DOA part is probably more likely than a wiring issue. I'm hoping that unplugging the alt stops the draw and I'll just take it back and get a new one. If the alt is drawing power it would be through the plastic plug 12v wire right? Or could it also be through the main wire to positive on the battery Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted November 10, 2017 Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 Verify its charging by checking battery voltage before and after starting the engine. Don't blame it until you check to see if its wired right. If its not, it CAN drain your battery! Not all do, but it can! Quote Link to comment
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