racerx Posted October 31, 2017 Report Share Posted October 31, 2017 /\, that is part of what I wrote. I also said they should have driven it around and checked your idle using a tachometer. While checking your idle, they could have checked your timing. Most shops I know have digital timing gun that can check the basics. When you pay someone to do your work, they should do it right and not just slap it on there. Oh well, lesson learned and at least its running. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 This is the fast idle cam. It is pulled up into place by a linkage connected to the choke when it is in the closed position. The underside has steps that the throttle closes against to increase the idle speed. As the choke warms and opens the fast idle moves down the steps reducing the idle speed. The screw with the spring is for setting the warm idle speed. This is the adjustment for the fast idle speed. Usually it does not need adjustment and the linkage can be bent to change the position on the steps.. When the choke opens fully the fast idle cam linkage falls of it's own weight and the cam rotates out of the way and the throttle is free to close to it's warm idle setting Quote Link to comment
mx71 Posted November 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 After bumping up the idle speed just a tad and getting the fast idle dialed in, it doesn't appear to have any stumbling now. Thanks, everyone! Now we'll see what happens when it gets to ten degrees F. I've gone two days now starting it and not having to manually give it any gas when starting, and it only takes one start. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 The choke heater can be adjusted richer. This will also delay it coming off as soon as well as the fast idle. But we'll wait and see first. Quote Link to comment
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