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How do I get to those motherf*cking nuts to get the g*d-d*mned motherf*cking carburetor off?


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#21 emanistan

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Posted 31 October 2017 - 04:27 PM

Thanks guys.  I got the valve cover off.  I'm actually considering just trying what KELMO said regardless, or maybe even taking out the whole engine and dismantling it on the bench.  We'll see this weekend.



#22 Dguy210

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Posted 31 October 2017 - 04:48 PM

I concur, they are 12mm. And yes, same wrench here.  ^_^

 

101463d1334595270-diy-valve-adjustment-w

 

 

The nuts are 12mm, I have a wrench with a 75 degree bend in it for them.  I also ground down some of the open end outsides to get a bit more swing, it doesn't take much to take the roundness out, and since you aren't reefing on this, the compromise to structural integrity is negligible.

Sorry, I blame my shitty memory for thinking they were 10mm.



#23 wayno

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Posted 31 October 2017 - 05:41 PM

You think they are hard to get off, wait till you try to get them on, I find that starting them is the hardest part, oh and make sure they spin on the studs freely, you want to be able to spin them on with the tip of your finger, you don't want to have to turn them on with a wrench.

I don't have any special wrenches to remove down draft carbs, I just find the shortest/skinniest wrench I have and make it work, and removing the valve cover is not optional, it is required, and you are going to have to use a open ended wrench.

By the way, I go to great lengths to not have down draft carbs on my vehicles, they are a pain, once I get them off I generally don't have to put them back on, I install dual SUs on everything if possible.


 

 


#24 emanistan

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Posted 31 October 2017 - 06:45 PM

Thanks wayno.  Everything you guys say is being filed away.  I sure hope the threads those nuts fit on haven't been damaged.

 

Incidentally, here is the newly removed valve cover.  Anyone dare to venture a guess as to why I was having so much trouble getting that middle screw out with my screwdriver?

 

38078537371_ce31ccd6af_z.jpg20171031_192312 by emanistan



#25 wayno

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Posted 31 October 2017 - 06:52 PM

Cause it is a bolt not a screw.


 

 


#26 emanistan

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Posted 31 October 2017 - 07:02 PM

Cause it is a bolt not a screw.

Great minds think alike.



#27 flatcat19

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Posted 31 October 2017 - 07:11 PM

Because you use Harbor Freight screwdrivers?

You can't hang if your nuts haven't dropped...it's physics


#28 emanistan

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Posted 31 October 2017 - 07:17 PM

Because you use Harbor Freight screwdrivers?

Damn right! I should take that screwdriver right back to HF & demand my money back because it's no good at removing bolts! 



#29 KELMO

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Posted 01 November 2017 - 04:00 AM

When you go to reinstall, get yourself an extendable magnet (bet you can get one at HF), it really helps when putting the nuts back on.


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#30 datzenmike

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Posted 01 November 2017 - 06:23 AM

What I did was set the washers and nuts on the carb base and carefully set the carb in place. When the studs come up through the washers fall down on and the nut sits on top. Then just reach in with fingertip and carefully spin it on. Not for the faint hearted. I also have a dental pick that you can spin them on with.

 

Had my L20B carb off 6 times last spring chasing a problem. Got pretty good at it.


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#31 flyerdan

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Posted 01 November 2017 - 07:52 AM

If I recall, there are only a couple that need started with the carb a bit elevated for clearance, but of course those are the hardest to see / access.  And while the carb is off is the time to make sure the stud threads are good and the nuts spin down by hand, and swap out any damaged nuts for good ones.  Stuff a rag or yogurt cup cap plug in the intake hole or Murphy's law will bite you in the ass.


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#32 LenRobertson

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Posted 01 November 2017 - 08:13 AM

And please let us know what size the carb nuts actually are. I checked the ones on my F10 (with A14 engine) and they are 10mm. L-series are 12mm (or all the ones I've worked on). But maybe some A-series engines used 12mm. I'm curious.

 

In my opinion doing the nuts on an A-series (at least a smog control version) are much worse than an L-series since there is less room for fingers.. And L-series are really miserable. My hope is I'll never again need to install a carb on an A-series.

 

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#33 KELMO

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Posted 01 November 2017 - 11:38 AM

98% sure A motor carb nuts are 10mm. Gonna take a look when I get home.


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#34 wayno

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Posted 01 November 2017 - 11:54 AM

I have an A series intake manifold out in the garage, I just checked and it has 10mm bolts holes in it, I suppose it had studs at some point but they have been removed, so I spun a bolt in the hole(bolt with 10mm head on it).

10mm should be way easier to work with as the wrenches are small already, I have a couple really short 10mm wrenches.


 

 


#35 emanistan

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Posted 01 November 2017 - 05:41 PM

THANK YOU EVERYBODY!!!

 

26325381449_e8fc3f03be_z.jpg20171101_170756 by emanistan

 

38070694142_527b10dff0_z.jpg20171101_170544 by emanistan

 

You guys have now more than earned the right to insult my screwdrivers--and my manhood with them--all you want.  Folks have been wondering about the size of these motherf*cker nuts ever since I posted this topic.  The answer, at least for the ones on my car, is 10mm, though, as I said before, other people have obviously been in this engine compartment before, so there's no guarantee they're factory original. 

 

In the end, the fact that the nuts were so jacked up worked to my advantage: the gouges and spurs enabled me to get them off by placing a flathead screwdriver against them and getting them started by tapping the end with a small hammer, then working them out the rest of the way by hand.  This particular screwdriver didn't come from Harbor Freight; it was a JEGS brand one I bought as part of a set off Ebay last year.  That's probably why it worked.



#36 wayno

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Posted 01 November 2017 - 06:00 PM

Maybe that is how they tightened them, same as you got them off.


 

 


#37 Dguy210

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Posted 01 November 2017 - 06:16 PM

10mm! I stand vindicated!

#38 captain720

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Posted 03 November 2017 - 06:20 AM


THANK YOU EVERYBODY!!!


26325381449_e8fc3f03be_z.jpg20171101_170756 by emanistan,

38070694142_527b10dff0_z.jpg20171101_170544 by emanistan,

You guys have now more than earned the right to insult my boltdrivers--and my manhood with them--all you want. Folks have been wondering about the size of these motherf*cker nuts ever since I posted this topic. The answer, at least for the ones on my car, is 10mm, though, as I said before, other people have obviously been in this engine compartment before, so there's no guarantee they're factory original.

In the end, the fact that the nuts were so jacked up worked to my advantage: the gouges and spurs enabled me to get them off by placing a flathead screwdriver against them and getting them started by tapping the end with a small hammer, then working them out the rest of the way by hand. This particular screwdriver didn't come from Harbor Freight; it was a JEGS brand one I bought as part of a set off Ebay last year. That's probably why it worked.

1986 and 0 Nissan 720 kc with a 1984 Z24 (third engines the charm?) http://community.rat...y-first-pickup/
1986 and 0 Nissan 720 kc 2wd http://community.ratsun.net/topic/71766-one-wasnt-enough/

 

 

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#39 hang_510

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Posted 03 November 2017 - 09:27 AM

HF tools are emergency 1 time use.
I use their screwdriver for digging weeds, but they rust after 1 season.


Custom tools rule!

I cut a wrench in 2
so if bending it heat it up first but dont hold it with your bare hands

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#40 afracer

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Posted 13 November 2017 - 03:18 AM

I bought a set of shorty metric wrenches many years ago that gets these fairly easy. The real answer is a different carb and eliminating all the emissions garbage.