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How do I get to those motherf*cking nuts to get the g*d-d*mned motherf*cking carburetor off?


emanistan

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Okay, now, for the first time, I need some real help from the wise folks here.   In the engine bay of my 78 B210 there is a very important device which needs to come out.  It sits sandwiched between the air cleaner and the manifold. Company literature refers to it as the "carburetor" in North America, or "carburettor" in the U.K., Austalia, etc.  Many of you refer to it simply as "the carb." I refer to it as the "that g*d-d*mned carburator"  or "f*cking carburetor" or "motherf*cking carburetor," or even "g*d d*mned motherf*cking carburetor piece of sh*t."  It is secured to the manifold by a set of four fasteners which will henceforth be referred to as the "motherf*cking nuts."

 

The four different repair manuals I have are no help.  Basicly they all say, after disconnecting the battery and removing the air cleaner, to disconnect the hoses, disconnect the linkage, and unscrew the four nuts (the motherf*cking nuts.)  But what they don't say is a) how do you disconnect the linkage, and how do you get to the motherf*cking nuts.  They are too close underneath the carb body to get a socket over them, too close to the corners to allow most conventional wrenches room to turn, there is next to no room to position tools around them anyway, and on my car, there's the added problem that the last people to work on it ended up damaging the nuts to the point where the corners are either rounded off or have metal spurs sticking off.

 

So what I want to know is:

A) how do you remove the linkage?

 

b) What is the secret to getting those nuts off?

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I always pick up El-Cheapo wrenches at garage sales/pawn shops just to have a selection around when I need to chop/cut/bend/grind one to get at something like your "f*cking carburetor".

Have like a dozen or so that were tweaked to get into some poorly designed application.

Once they have done their job, the $1 or so I paid for them was well worth it.

Some I've had so long, that I have forgot what they were 'tuned' for.....

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My L series has 14mm nuts on studs. What I did was shorten an open end spanner (or wrench) so it doesn't hit anything when turning. On all, I can only get maybe 1/12th of a turn and have to take the wrench out and flip it over to get the 1/6 nut face turned. It's laborious but the carb has been off so many times once loosened you can spin with your finger.

 

It's impossible to fully loosen each nut, so work your way around lifting the carb for clearance. I have one of those magnetic tool picker upper wand things to collect the nuts once loosened off. The washers I leave on the carb flange and sometimes the nuts also. Then carefully lift the carb away without spilling them. 

 

KjCl9kC.jpg

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Thanks everybody, especially the great Datzenmike.  You answered one thing I specifically forgot to ask: what size are those motherf*cking nuts?  since I can't even fit a caliper down there to size them, and the burrs on the edges would throw off the measurement anyway.  I think next week after payday I'll try my luck with a 1/12 box-end ratchet wrench with a flex handle.

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If you take the Valve Cover off it's 100% easier if you do.

I think you're right.  I started doing that, but the screws on the side next to the carb were so hard to get at that I left off to see if it was entirely necessary.  I lost my good long philipps-head this week, so that's another thing that will wait till the next trip to Harbor Freight after payday next week. 

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Thanks everybody, especially the great Datzenmike.  You answered one thing I specifically forgot to ask: what size are those motherf*cking nuts?  since I can't even fit a caliper down there to size them, and the burrs on the edges would throw off the measurement anyway.  I think next week after payday I'll try my luck with a 1/12 box-end ratchet wrench with a flex handle.

The nuts are 10mm on a B210. As Doctor510 said take off the valve cover and it is easier.

 

These nuts are a real pain in the ass. Cheap super thin 10mm open end wrenches with a bend helps, when I still had a Hitachi I had several to make this job easier.

 

The nut closest to the firewall and next to the valve cover is put on by Satan himself.

 

I usually use a flatblade screwdriver to help put-on/remove it when I can't get a wrench in there, removing the valve cover helps so much.

 

Check these nuts when you are done, they have a tendency to loosen up and cause an airleak.

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I cut a wrench in 2 and welded it back together at 90 degrees 

i did this because it broke when i tried to bend it 

so if bending it heat it up first but dont hold it with your bare hands 

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Like DM, I have a few open end wrenches that I cut in half for the sole purpose of removing a carb off of an "A" motor.  Also, hate to say it but, if the nuts are too jacked up you may need to pull the intake manifold....hopefully not though. 

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On that... I seem to remember it being a 12mm but the one I found was 14mm. I think the one pictured was for getting at the bottom bolts holding the manifolds on. Pretty sure the L carb bolts were 12mm.

 

I can see the B210 nuts being 10mm.

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The nuts are 12mm, I have a wrench with a 75 degree bend in it for them.  I also ground down some of the open end outsides to get a bit more swing, it doesn't take much to take the roundness out, and since you aren't reefing on this, the compromise to structural integrity is negligible.

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I concur, they are 12mm. And yes, same wrench here.  ^_^

 

101463d1334595270-diy-valve-adjustment-w

 

 

The nuts are 12mm, I have a wrench with a 75 degree bend in it for them.  I also ground down some of the open end outsides to get a bit more swing, it doesn't take much to take the roundness out, and since you aren't reefing on this, the compromise to structural integrity is negligible.

Sorry, I blame my shitty memory for thinking they were 10mm.

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You think they are hard to get off, wait till you try to get them on, I find that starting them is the hardest part, oh and make sure they spin on the studs freely, you want to be able to spin them on with the tip of your finger, you don't want to have to turn them on with a wrench.

I don't have any special wrenches to remove down draft carbs, I just find the shortest/skinniest wrench I have and make it work, and removing the valve cover is not optional, it is required, and you are going to have to use a open ended wrench.

By the way, I go to great lengths to not have down draft carbs on my vehicles, they are a pain, once I get them off I generally don't have to put them back on, I install dual SUs on everything if possible.

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Thanks wayno.  Everything you guys say is being filed away.  I sure hope the threads those nuts fit on haven't been damaged.

 

Incidentally, here is the newly removed valve cover.  Anyone dare to venture a guess as to why I was having so much trouble getting that middle screw out with my screwdriver?

 

38078537371_ce31ccd6af_z.jpg20171031_192312 by emanistan

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