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$200 1979 210(b310) project car


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#1 head trauma johnny

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Posted 23 October 2017 - 05:39 PM

Just picked up this 210 this weekend. Couldn't beat the price. It needs a lot of work but it will be fun. It doesn't run due to some electrical issue. Tried to jump it and only the lights work, nothing else. So I need to go through everything to figure it out. The previous owner said it ran good before the issue. This is my first Datsun but have always loved them. Any advice on the electric issue would be awesome. Will keep everyone up to date with the progress of the project.

Will try and post some pictures once I figure out how to.

#2 datzenmike

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Posted 23 October 2017 - 05:48 PM

There are two at least, fusible links that feed power to the car. One for the headlights, one to the ignition which sends it to part of the fuses box for things like the heater, wipers, radio... stuff that needs to turn off with the key. Sometimes there is a third for interior lamp, tail lights, brake light, horn and clock but it may be included with the headlamps.

 

Try... https://imgur.com/  ... there are others, but NOT Photobucket. Any picture hosting service will do if you like their layout and the results.


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#3 head trauma johnny

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Posted 23 October 2017 - 06:46 PM

https://i.imgur.com/OTM6uBN.jpg

#4 datzenmike

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Posted 23 October 2017 - 06:53 PM

OTM6uBN.jpg

 

When you click on your image at imgur select Copy Image Location then come here and look just below the yellow happy face for the green square with the green border around it. Click on it and hit CTRL and V. Then OK

 

 

That looks pretty damn good for the price.


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#5 tr8er

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Posted 23 October 2017 - 10:18 PM

Damn good! Electrical issue is too vague for me. But I'll try to help when you post more details. I'd get a multimeter, or 12V tester then start testing from the battery on. Chassis ground can make everything fail. Starter ground can prevent the starter from bumping.

#6 head trauma johnny

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Posted 24 October 2017 - 05:40 PM

So I replaced the battery since it was 13yrs old along with new battery cables. Fixed a couple of bad wires and then tried to start it. I'm using my nissan Altima key right now since I lost the one and only key for the car when I transported it to my house. If I jiggle it just right it will turn the ignition. The engine turn over wouldn't start and saw a fuel hose leaking so I fixed that. Then tried to start again and I couldn't get the Altima key to work again. The fuse box seems very finicky. I think I would like to upgrade it to modern fuses asap has anyone done this?
By the way I ordered a new set of keys and locks,ignition, just have to wait.

#7 Sierra

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Posted 24 October 2017 - 06:27 PM

I remember seeing someone post the wiring diagram for the 210. I would try to get a pdf copy of it. Take a look and compare, do this before you start replacing parts. Its fairly easy to read. Good luck and welcome to ratsun.



#8 head trauma johnny

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Posted 24 October 2017 - 08:45 PM

Would this setup make a noticeable difference in performance for the a14? Would the 4 carbs be a pain to tune?

https://www.facebook...487980501237083

#9 JDOM310

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Posted 24 October 2017 - 09:23 PM

Sweet find!!!

#10 Sierra

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Posted 25 October 2017 - 06:36 AM

Here is a link that will take you to a site with the wiring diagrams for all B210 and210's.

http://www.nicoclub....g-diagrams.html



#11 Lockleaf

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Posted 25 October 2017 - 07:16 AM

Yes people have upgraded fuse boxes in these. You can order any one of a hundred aftermarket fuse blocks or cut one from a junkyard.

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#12 head trauma johnny

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Posted 25 October 2017 - 04:49 PM

So I put some petrol in, replaced the clogged fuel filter got it started for the first time in about a year. Had to hotwire it. New key and ignition shipped today. It would not idle no matter what i did. It reved fine but would just die if i took my foot off the pedal. Any ideas? Messed with the idle screw with no result. I did buy this set up https://www.facebook...487980501237083but would like to drive it around for a little bit to see the change in performance. What size exhaust should I run with the headers? Thanks for all the help. Great forum.

#13 Lockleaf

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Posted 25 October 2017 - 05:30 PM

Measure your stock size pipe. Add 1/4 inch, then use mandrel bent pipe. That should give you plenty of flow boost while maintaining exhaust velocity.

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#14 Cosmonaut

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Posted 26 October 2017 - 05:30 PM

That exhaust pipe looks like one for a roadster.

Maybe someone was using an A14 in a Roadster?

#15 head trauma johnny

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Posted 28 October 2017 - 02:34 PM

A series quad carbs https://imgur.com/gallery/kqbEL

Just received these today. I also got a new tire to replace the punctured one. Then I tried to get the car to run right and get it moving. hooked up all the vacuum limes and tried to get it dialed in . Every time I thought I had it and took the car for a test drive I would get a few blocks down the road and it would die and not run again. The vacuum lines seem to be finicky or the carb but it idles good then I put it in drive and it dies or runs like crap. I know it's probably a vacuum issue just need to go though every line to make sure it's good and not leaking. Was thinking of just putting the quad carbs on and not messing with the stock setup. Is the clear line in the photo vacuum line for trans,ect.? What do you guys think?

#16 JDOM310

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Posted 28 October 2017 - 07:51 PM

Does it have A14 1397cc

#17 Crashtd420

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Posted 29 October 2017 - 04:39 AM

A series quad carbs https://imgur.com/gallery/kqbEL

Just received these today. I also got a new tire to replace the punctured one. Then I tried to get the car to run right and get it moving. hooked up all the vacuum limes and tried to get it dialed in . Every time I thought I had it and took the car for a test drive I would get a few blocks down the road and it would die and not run again. The vacuum lines seem to be finicky or the carb but it idles good then I put it in drive and it dies or runs like crap. I know it's probably a vacuum issue just need to go though every line to make sure it's good and not leaking. Was thinking of just putting the quad carbs on and not messing with the stock setup. Is the clear line in the photo vacuum line for trans,ect.? What do you guys think?


The clear line on those carbs is your fuel hookup.... the black lines are overflows vent lines....

#18 head trauma johnny

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Posted 29 October 2017 - 05:35 AM

Yes it has the a14. Can I use the new carbs with my auto trans? Don't I need vacuum from the carb to control it ?

#19 Crashtd420

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Posted 29 October 2017 - 07:17 AM

Usually anything I saw working with motor cycle carbs is there was usually vacuum ports on the intake or intake boots.....

#20 Crashtd420

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Posted 29 October 2017 - 07:59 AM

Looked back at the pics and didn't see any vacuum ports....
If you need a vacuum line for your transmission you'll probably have to find a way to install ports into the intake runners....
That may also effect your dizzy and your pcv system ...
Also if it's any thing like dealing with a side draft Weber the manifold vacuum is different from ported vacuum off the carb base.... so not sure how or if that applies....