Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Broken timing cover dizzy mount


  • Please log in to reply
57 replies to this topic

#1 d.p

d.p

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 978 posts
  • Location:Mid-Atlantic
  • Cars:1971 521, 2015 M3

Posted 20 October 2017 - 06:44 AM

Hits keep coming with this truck.  

 

Was taking a look today and noticed my dizzy mount on the timing cover had cracked.  Took the dizzy out and the section seems to have just sheered off.  Just recently I installed a petronix dizzy but not sure that would cause this?  I have another L16 with the timing cover still on it so I can use that one once I get it off (have to break crank bolt loose).  Or can I just jb weld this shit?  Wish I could drive this thing without constantly having to take it apart. 

 

Beyond frustrating at this point.  

 

 

23959518628_3531144fe1.jpg

 

37780859952_4407e63154.jpg

 

37554239020_5829a87d47.jpg

 

37764268136_cde542cd01.jpg



#2 banzai510(hainz)

banzai510(hainz)

    L motor God

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,982 posts

Posted 20 October 2017 - 07:19 AM

I saw JB weld it. what you got to lose.

 

never seen one crack before like that. unless you did something and not saying. Maybe its just getting old or the spindal holder inside is wrn and causing a wiggle to move it up to the distributor


Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#3 d.p

d.p

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 978 posts
  • Location:Mid-Atlantic
  • Cars:1971 521, 2015 M3

Posted 20 October 2017 - 07:35 AM

Going to try jb weld. And what could I do to cause that?

#4 datzenmike

datzenmike

    KING RAT

  • User Administrator
  • 69,420 posts
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 20 October 2017 - 07:45 AM

Thoroughly de-grease with carb cleaner or something.


Posted Image

#5 flyerdan

flyerdan

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 255 posts
  • Location:Salem, OR
  • Cars:93 Blazer that needs parting out.

Posted 20 October 2017 - 07:54 AM

Acetone and an old toothbrush with the bristles trimmed back to about 3/16" - 1/4" for good scrubbin'.


Whoever said "You can't fight city hall" had obviously never met Marvin Heemeyer.


#6 racerx

racerx

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,111 posts
  • Location:NorCal
  • Cars:71 Datsun 510 and 65 Mustang Fastback

Posted 20 October 2017 - 09:19 AM

Hits keep coming with this truck.  
 
Was taking a look today and noticed my dizzy mount on the timing cover had cracked.  Took the dizzy out and the section seems to have just sheered off.  Just recently I installed a petronix dizzy but not sure that would cause this?  I have another L16 with the timing cover still on it so I can use that one once I get it off (have to break crank bolt loose).  Or can I just jb weld this shit?  Wish I could drive this thing without constantly having to take it apart. 
 
Beyond frustrating at this point.  
 
 
23959518628_3531144fe1.jpg
 
37780859952_4407e63154.jpg
 
37554239020_5829a87d47.jpg
 
37764268136_cde542cd01.jpg

....I hear you but our vehicles are over 40 years old, things will come lose, fall apart, break apart, leak, hang in there...

#7 G-Duax

G-Duax

    prickly in San Antonio

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 776 posts
  • Location:San Antonio, The Republic of Texas
  • Cars:73 620 & 90 Toyota Cressida

Posted 20 October 2017 - 09:38 AM

Most likely cause is the new blue gasket, and everything bolted down with old black gasket material still on the machined surfaces.

#1 cause of broken intake manifolds, and other cast aluminum parts.

 

Why not do it right, and just replace the front cover.

There has to be hundreds of those things laying in garages.


  • d.p likes this

#8 Crashtd420

Crashtd420

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,517 posts
  • Location:Massachusetts
  • Cars:1972 Datsun 521

Posted 20 October 2017 - 09:45 AM

Most likely cause is the new blue gasket, and everything bolted down with old black gasket material still on the machined surfaces.
#1 cause of broken intake manifolds, and other cast aluminum parts.

Why not do it right, and just replace the front cover.
There has to be hundreds of those things laying in garages.


There's one in his garage needs to get it off the spare motor....

#9 wayno

wayno

    Datsunahaulic

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,680 posts

Posted 20 October 2017 - 09:45 AM

In the last photo it appears to already have something on it.

 

What I would do is try the JB weld but I would also make a bracket that goes from the 10mm bolt holding the dizzy to that piece of metal to one of the front cover bolts below it, the bracket needs to be tight enough to slightly pull down to keep the piece of metal in place.

 

The pain here is that changing that front cover out is not a couple hour job, that is one of the time consuming jobs on these engines, I can do a headgasket way faster and not have any oil leaks when I am done.


 

 


#10 d.p

d.p

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 978 posts
  • Location:Mid-Atlantic
  • Cars:1971 521, 2015 M3

Posted 20 October 2017 - 10:44 AM

Shitty if that’s why it broke because the shop put that gasket on there when they replaced the chain tensioner. Also I don’t want to take the tc off if I don’t have to but I have another one that I can use if jb weld doesn’t work.

That picture does make it look there is crap on there but it may just be the lighting. Will take another look when I get a minute.

#11 datzenmike

datzenmike

    KING RAT

  • User Administrator
  • 69,420 posts
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 20 October 2017 - 12:44 PM

Assemble with the distributor holding it in place like a splint, till it's cured.


Posted Image

#12 Stoffregen Motorsports

Stoffregen Motorsports

    Datsun Mechanic

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,758 posts
  • Location:Cool, CA
  • Cars:http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/features/rover/0611_4wd_1957_range_rover/viewall.html

Posted 21 October 2017 - 07:33 AM

I would think the tiny 6mm bolt would strip or break before it built enough force to break off that much of the aluminum cover.

 

Seems like something else happened to cause this failure.

 

Would I JB weld it? Hell no. I'd remove it and replace it or TIG weld it. But to get you back on the road in the meantime? Ok, as long as it's not permanent.



#13 d.p

d.p

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 978 posts
  • Location:Mid-Atlantic
  • Cars:1971 521, 2015 M3

Posted 21 October 2017 - 11:56 AM

Yeah I don't know what would cause it?  That spindle/dizzy just spins?  No up/down. 

 

Anyways I jb welded it, let it sit overnight, cleaned the mounting surfaces, replaced the o-ring, replaced the gasket and put it all back together.  Will see how long it holds.  



#14 d.p

d.p

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 978 posts
  • Location:Mid-Atlantic
  • Cars:1971 521, 2015 M3

Posted 21 October 2017 - 02:54 PM

Got a questions.

I have a spare l16 which I took the head off and now want to take the timing cover off. What is the easiest way to remove the crank bolt with the head off (chain is wedged)?

#15 datzenmike

datzenmike

    KING RAT

  • User Administrator
  • 69,420 posts
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 21 October 2017 - 03:16 PM

Well unlikely you will do so without upsetting the wedge. As you are taking the timing cover off any way, and can reset it once it's off, just take it out now.

 

I've done the following several times in a wrecking yard with an engine laying on the ground. Fit the 28mm? socket over the bolt with a piece of pipe over the end to increase the mechanical advantage with it to the starter side. Wear a work boot or something stout. Take careful aim (put down your purse) and stomp down HARD on the bar. The inertia of the crank, rods  and pistons are more than enough to allow the bolt to snap loose.

 

If the engine is in the vehicle, put the socket and ratchet (maybe with pipe extension) on the crank bolt and swing the ratchet arm up against the frame near the lower rad return hose. Be sure everything is out of the way and your battery is fully charged and hit the start with the key. The engine will turn clockwise while the nut unscrews counter clockwise. Use only enough to snap the nut loose. Just a tap.


Posted Image

#16 wayno

wayno

    Datsunahaulic

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,680 posts

Posted 21 October 2017 - 03:36 PM

Impact, if you do not have one of them then take the clutch cover off the flywheel and drill two holes in a beefy piece of metal bar and bolt it to the flywheel using clutch cover bolts towards the passenger side, then put whatever is needed to hold that bar still if the bar is not touching the ground(concrete block?) and then do what Mike mentioned above, hit it hard with your foot or a sledge, spitting maul, anything heavy.

As he mentioned since your taking the front cover off it really doesn't matter if it moves but it would be nice if it didn't move and somehow bind against the cover and break it, that seems to be how stuff goes for me, but I have an impact and took one off a Z24 just the other day, it didn't move even without the wedge.


 

 


#17 d.p

d.p

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 978 posts
  • Location:Mid-Atlantic
  • Cars:1971 521, 2015 M3

Posted 21 October 2017 - 04:23 PM

Engine is out of the truck sitting on a little dolly.  I don't have an impact and I don't have the flywheel but the 5 bolts in the back of the crank shaft are there.   

 

Pull the wedge, put a huge breaker bar on it and kick down?  I don't need to wedge the crank or anything?  I figure if I try to break it loose now it will just turn the motor.   Yeah would suck if I broke the TC doing this cause thats the whole reason I am doing this is to have a spare if my jb weld shits the bed.   



#18 wayno

wayno

    Datsunahaulic

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,680 posts

Posted 21 October 2017 - 04:29 PM

You need to have something hold the crank still/in position, I would leave the wedge in.


 

 


#19 Roadster-ka

Roadster-ka

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 95 posts
  • Location:Vallejo
  • Cars:71 510 wagon

Posted 21 October 2017 - 09:05 PM

Pull oil pan, block crank with board, long breaker bar. Got to take some pan bolts out to remove timing cover, why not pull the pan.

#20 DanielC

DanielC

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,539 posts
  • Location:West Linn,Or

Posted 22 October 2017 - 05:08 AM

Get a piece of angle steel, 1x1 or 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 on each side, about two feet long.  Drill two 5/16 holes, in the angle steel, the distance of the bolts that are 144 degrees apart on the flywheel.  Put the holes just far enough away from the inside angle that you can have the head of the bolt inside the angle.  

Bolt the angle steel to the flywheel, and you have a two foot lever to hold the engine from rotating.  you can also use this to remove the flywheel bolts, when you need to do that.