needing help with mono leafing

[frame_basher#1]

well im new to the site i have a 1982 720 long story short ive posted on other sites and got no result. i have a buddy who has a mazda b2200 mono leaf kit and i was wondering if it would fit my truck 

[datzenmike]

A mono leaf? Like fiberglass? A single leaf isn't a good idea as the leaf pack provides lateral stability when hard cornering. A single leaf will twist allowing the axle to shift sideways. If this mono leaf is thick and stiff enough I guess it's ok.

 

There's nothing wrong with the stock springs. If lowering use blocks or have the leaves de-arched at a spring shop. 720 4x4 leaves are less arched and also stiffer which is a good thing on a lowered vehicle.

 

First of all ask yourself...

 

"What advantage is there in doing this?"

"Can I do this by simply modifying my springs for a lot less?"

 

 

The 720 2wd leaf springs are 1,200mm long and 60mm wide. The spring rate (stiffness) is 310 lb/in and there's an optional 442 lb/in. Nissan 4x4 springs are 548 lb/in and flatter. Never run softer spring rates. Never remove leaves to lower a ride height. Never heat the springs to lower. Never flip the spring to lower. Firmer always handles better.

[wayno]

Search "Mono Leafing", there are not many positive responses in the search results.

[tdc]

tbh it all comes down to context. are you just trying to be low and scrape on things and look good while rolling around town? are you going to be coming in hot on some hard corners or doing long trips or hauling anything in the back? if you're about the low and slow life, you can remove springs and be fine. it'll handle like crap and you won't be able to throw as much weight in the back, but if that's not your thing, who cares? if you're going to be taking it on spirited drives down a twisty highway on the regular, i probably wouldn't go pulling springs out. 

 

a proper mono leaf will be a lot heavier than a standard leaf spring from a pack, as it's designed to replace a spring pack, so you shouldn't experience much rear end sway from them. you can definitely make mazda b springs fit, but if you're looking for a bolt on solution, you may need to keep looking. sounds like mike knows the 720 spring size, but it wouldn't hurt to double check yourself and then compare to the b springs.

[flatcat19]

http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts/lowering_leaf_springs_by_belltech/3346/belltechb265974rear,driverorpassengerside.aspx?scid=gglpla&gclid=CjwKCAjwpfzOBRA5EiwAU0ccN8v0w2yR2AoGU6euypQ1j_Fnq9vFFLDFSchuEB-BR1q8OqS3eAIIWxoCdCAQAvD_BwE

[frame_basher#1]

im just looking to static drop it for now until i can afford to bag it i dont want it extremely low just low enough to where it looks good for now.

[datzenmike]

Get 2" or 3" drop blocks. Lowers what you want but keeps the springs. It's also very easy to do.

[frame_basher#1]

another question i have is can i re'drill the leaf hangers on the 720? ive seen it done on the hardbodies but havent seen it done on the 720s. 

[flatcat19]

OP...are you on the InfamousNissans forum? They are more specific to slammed/bagged Nissan trucks.

 

Great source of info over there.

[frame_basher#1]

im on infamous same name. i dont get any response on there anymore 

[wayno]

I searched mono leaf kit and most of the results were going from mono leaf to multi leaf.

[datzenmike]

 

 

First of all ask yourself...

 

"What advantage is there in doing this?"

"Can I do this by simply modifying my springs for a lot less?"

 

 

What's the advantage here?

[G-Duax]

There is a place that makes custom composite springs, but they wanted more to do a set than the parts to go 4-link.

So that is what I did...

[bottomwatcher]

I had an astro cargo van with the stock fiberglass rear monoleaf. 347k miles no issues. Don't know the length maybe a cheap junkyard fix if you can shift the hangers. I just wish they would offer them for boat trailers that see saltwater your lucky too see two years on regular steel. springs.

[olskool720]

My 720 has been running a mono leaf for 30 years.  First with blocks to static drop it. Then, when I bagged it 15+ years ago, I kept the mono leaf set up.  I cruise slow and low.  One day one day, I say that I'll switch to a 4 link setup, but, never get around to paying someone to do it.  It's worked for me.  You can find "lowered springs" for 720s on ebay.  And yes, back in the day, there were people that redrilled/relocated their leaf hangers on 720s.  Very rare, but it was done to get that extra "drop".  But, it was mostly done on Hardbodys.  Those trucks just wouldn't lower very easy, so the hanger modification helped drop it.  Most of this was done pre-bag era.

[frame_basher#1]

theres  really no advantage on my end i just want to get it as low as i can with out having to bag it right now in the end it will be laying frame. To me getting it as low as i can is the advantage because i like to be different and in where im from there are very few guys who like lowered trucks they are all lifted trucks are the only way to go kinda people. once again thanks everyone for the info 

[datzenmike]

I'm not getting, replacing the spring, when you can simply have them re-arched. If going to bags why all this bother now?

[flatcat19]

Riding on single leafs sucks balls...even if you only want to be slammed.

 

You'll end up not even wanting to drive the thing.

 

Even if only temporary, don't half-ass it. Shit gets broken that way. And parts are getting harder and harder to find.

 

People won't sell you stuff from their stash if they know your plan is to just keep doing dumb shit with it.

[wayno]

another question i have is can i re'drill the leaf hangers on the 720? ive seen it done on the hardbodies but havent seen it done on the 720s. 

What does this mean re-drilling the leaf hangers?

 

To lower my 720 frame I installed 520/521 front leaf spring mounts replacing the 720 mounts(that got the leaf mount over an inch closer to the frame), then I removed the rear shackle mount from the frame and replaced it with Datsun Roadster rear shackle mounts(bolt on after drilling the holes), this got the leaf mount point almost 3 inches closer to the frame, I then used 720 4X4 leafs which got me a 1 1/2 inch drop, I also used 2 1/2 inch drop blocks, that equals around a 5 1/2 inch drop in the rear, I also used low profile tires so it was about a 6 inch frame drop in the rear, I had to notch the rear frame.

The front I made a set of 720 drop arms(2 1/2 inch drop), the rest was done by cutting bump stops(did not remove them), flipping the upper control arms so the ball joints don't bind and using Roadster front shocks(stud/stud), this also came to around a 6 inch drop in the front.

I still have a fully functioning suspension, there is a lot more to it like replacing the carrier cross member so it didn't hang down, I also had to put the exhaust above all the cross members, I re-located the tension rods behind the lower control arms and cut off all the metal in the front as it was hitting stuff, I rarely drag anything anymore but I avoid parking lots with them small speed bumps, and when I go over large speed bumps I have to come down the back side under 20mph or the cross member below the oil pan hits the ground, I did raise the front a little bit so I would not drag going into my driveway(less than 1/2 inch), that cross member under the oil pan is 2 1/4 inches off the ground.

A lot of this can be done fast, but notching the frame(10 hours) and making the front drop arms(5 hours) took time, the rest wasn't so bad, but a lot of it would be way easier if the cab/box were not on the frame.

[distributorguy]

Single leaf steel springs usually have an "overload" spring to help not bounce so much.

Single leaf fiberglass or composite springs are not only expensive, but they require a panhard bar and traction bars to prevent destroying them under load.  Ask how I know.  

 

If you're looking for a cheap way out, why not buy the $50 lowering block kit?   It IS the cheap way out.