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Plug wire order question


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#1 Rust-n-Peace

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 04:12 PM

So, I just got myself a 1985 720 with the Z24 engine. The previous owner said it was running rough, so he tried to fix it. Now it doesn't run at all. The only way I can sorta get it to run now is to wire the plug wires so that the number 1 plug is closest to the fire wall and 4 is closest to the fan. It now runs rough and barley idles. If I wire it with plug #1 towards the fan, it will not run at all. Any ideas on how to make this run properly?



#2 datzenmike

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 04:23 PM

A proper Nissan cap will have the plug wires on it.
 
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If it runs with the 1 intake against the firewall then the distributor may be in 180 out. That's fine it will work just as well but harder to properly connect the plug wires.


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#3 Rust-n-Peace

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 05:55 PM

datzenmike, if it was 180 out, wouldn't it be like 3412 not 4321?

#4 datzenmike

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 06:45 PM

No. 1342 but it just starts on the other side of the distributor cap. To be 180 out the drive spindle was put in 180 out. The distributor can only mount in the position the drive spindle puts it in.

 

If you want to check, set to TDC on the compression stroke number 1 cylinder. Use the timing notch on the crank pulley and the timing scale on the alternator side. When carefully set remove the two 10mm ? bolts holding the distributor base to the timing cover and lift the distributor up and out. Do not loosen the bolts used to set the timing. Done properly the timing setting is preserved and will remain the same when the distributor is put back in.

 

This is what you should see down inside. Note that there is a small and a large side half moon. This prevents the distributor from engaging in any other position. Normally the small side is to the front (left) If you are 180 out  the small side will be on the right.

 

caCNXMO.jpg

 

Again being 180 out is not the end of the world it's just different from everyone else and has to be kept in mind when dealing with ignition wiring..


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#5 Rust-n-Peace

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 03:45 AM

Thanks for the quick replies. Makes sense to me now, it is 180 out. Now I can rule that out as the reason it runs like crap (hardly idles & no power), I guess it's time to rebuild the carb. Also, one more thing, which coil is the intake and which is the exhaust, or does it really matter?



#6 datzenmike

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 04:50 AM

Do both coils fire? If not, this will also cause poor performance....check the first fuse on the left side of the fuse box.

 

They are the same coils and they both fire at the same time so really doesn't matter which fires which. If you have a tachometer, disconnect one of the coil's negative wires... It should still start but run not as well.... if the tach stops working this is the intake coil.


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#7 Rust-n-Peace

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 05:08 AM

Great, thanks. I will try that after work tonight.



#8 Rust-n-Peace

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 02:15 PM

Thanks @datzenmike, I took the dizzy out cleaned it up, then put it back in. I must be some sorta super mechanic, cause she's running pretty good now.