what is the best gasket material use to seal oil pan?
oil pan leak
Posted 08 October 2017 - 08:43 AM
This is what I use on oil pans these days. Works far better than the RTV of the old days.
Posted 08 October 2017 - 11:43 AM
Takes me longer than a minute to put it on.
I have had it take me a half hour to install a 521 L block oil pan, but I did it without removing any cross members except for dropping the steering assembly by un-bolting the idler arm, I didn't lift the engine either, I did it by dropping the pan as far as possible, then removing the oil pick up tube, then I could get the pan out, I had to reverse the procedure to install it, get the oil pan in there, and then without touching the gasket on the oil pan I had to re-install the oil pick up tube, then install the oil pan on the block.
I did this because I installed a L20b oil pan(620) into my 521 by accident and the steering assembly would not bolt back up into position as the oil pan was in the way.
Posted 08 October 2017 - 09:27 PM
I coat both sides of the cork gasket with Permatex #1 non hardening sealant. Works for my 50 year old original owner RL411! And for my father.
Posted 09 October 2017 - 03:11 PM
I figure if I have to bend a corner of the steel pan to get a gasket scraper in there to remove the pan, but that means the pan won't leak, ever, then that's a price I'm willing to pay.
Posted 10 October 2017 - 11:37 AM
It's also possible that the reservoir cap has a bad seal. I thought that my pan was leaking but found it was just that cap. Replaced with a copper crush washer.
Posted 10 October 2017 - 12:01 PM
I use Indian Head Gasket Shellac, it smells great too.
Posted 10 October 2017 - 12:59 PM
sometimes its the oil sender leaking making it look like a oil pan gasket.
I replaced my cork gasket cause I overtorqed it and it split.
I loosen the engine mounts and lifted the trans with a jack to get enough room to get past the oil sump(was a MOFO) but I did it w/o loosening the steering.
Posted 11 October 2017 - 07:55 AM
An old-timer once told me to start with a can of "Arid" spray-on deodorant, and spray it from top to bottom on the engine. Baby powder works too, but you have to make a bigger mess. The powder will "wet" with oil, so you can see your leaks. Clean the engine and repair leaks from the top down - you'll generally have less to repair if you follow these simple steps.
All leaks will eventually look like they start from the oil pan or rear main seal.
Posted 11 October 2017 - 08:33 AM
That's good advice.
One method I use is to pressure wash the entire engine, from top to bottom, then with a clean canvas, watch what gets wet in the next few days/weeks.
- nissan720 likes this
Posted 14 October 2017 - 06:40 PM
its my oil pan gasket.Should there be any type of sealant applied to the gasket?Or just skip gasket and use Permatex Black ultra rtv?
Posted 15 October 2017 - 08:05 AM
Skip the gasket and use the RTV in the link I posted above. Use only black or grey RTV, but the stuff I linked is by far, the strongest RTV for this application.
Posted 16 October 2017 - 01:14 PM
I'll 2nd that the Permatex "Right Stuff" is exceptional. No gasket - just a heavy bead and follow the directions on the bottle to the letter for timing. DO NOT get any on the crank!!!.
Posted 16 October 2017 - 03:53 PM
A gasket is going to fit and seal. Goo is ok if you know what you're doing, and the engine is out on a stand, but too little doesn't work and too much can squeeze out into the pan and float around. And iot's messy. Nissan didn't use it when they put your engine together. I cannot see one advantage to it unless Sunday and the store is closed..
Posted 16 October 2017 - 05:05 PM
Gaskets crush and bolts gets loose causing leaks.
Move into the 21st century and ditch the old gasket in favor of the right stuff.
- KoHeartsGPA likes this