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Possible KA Purchase


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#1 Acardiel11

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 10:51 AM

How's it going y'all!

I need your guys opinion on this one. My buddy has a buddy that's selling KA. It came out of a 1990 Nissan 240 and he's selling it for $300. Here's some pictures. Maybe you guys can give me some more info on it or if it needs anything else. Thanks in advance!

3D6840AF-C169-4BE1-9526-DB5F5125B91B_zps

650CEC8A-B526-468E-9FE5-99F4D7CEBEC2_zps

B406227D-CEC9-422F-B23E-C2517C74DEF7_zps

F9AB21AA-2178-4F52-979D-F77528A73413_zps


266097F5-9B5A-4259-82E5-595CEB686DDA_zps

03838D0B-1CB7-4149-8EF5-A51FDAB34D47_zps

1611473E-467F-4F7A-8836-D5017F6510F1_zps

#2 racerx

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 11:49 AM

How many miles? Did u hear it run before it was out?

#3 Moist Lightning

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 11:54 AM

Just do a compression test. Even a cold test should show any problems. 



#4 Acardiel11

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 12:22 PM

How many miles? Did u hear it run before it was out?


He's not sure on the miles. I guess he picked it up from some who did a swap. It was running before it was pulled. I didn't here it but he said it ran good. But that's what they all say. Haha

#5 Acardiel11

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 12:23 PM

Just do a compression test. Even a cold test should show any problems.


Personally have not done a compression test but will look up how to do it. Any specific numbers I'm looking for?

#6 Draker

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 01:26 PM

Will need ECU, coil, MAF.

 

Do a leak down test. That will tell you all you need to know. Plus easier to do than a compression test when mounted on an engine stand......


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#7 distributorguy

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 01:44 PM

All that Plus exhaust manifold.  Compression test above 150 is great.  Below 125 not so good.  



#8 Moist Lightning

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 03:39 PM

Personally have not done a compression test but will look up how to do it. Any specific numbers I'm looking for?

Temp and elevation effect compression numbers. don't worry if they are lower that spec. my de was 145 +/- 5 psi on all cylinders cold at 3000ft.
Look for consistency in numbers. also 2 low numbers that are the exact same and right next to each other indicate head gasket failure.

 

Compression test is cheap and easy. if comp is good and you are still worried look at a leakdown test.

 

Edit: you can "wet compression test" to look for cylinder or ring wear.



#9 datzenmike

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 03:45 PM

So no one has seen it run? Only the price is right. Car KA are heavy and front sump. Hardbody engines are lighter and rear sump and a better fit for the 620. The car electronics can be swapped and are a separate harness than the D21.

 

You need a flywheel and a transmission.


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#10 flatcat19

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 03:57 PM

Offer 2 for the single. Offer 3 for the DE that's sitting on the ground next to it.

ECU, harness, coil, trans. Does this motor come with any of those?

You can't hang if your nuts haven't dropped...it's physics


#11 KoHeartsGPA

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 04:03 PM

If you get the ECU and harness call it good, go find a d21 running KA do timing chain kit & gaskets, put it in a Datsun, go have fun.

#12 KoHeartsGPA

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 04:11 PM

Oh and you'll need Steve's bracket for the fuel pump, motor mounts, and get Jeff's Can-Am box for plug & play onto your 620, all that will save you tons of hours in Fab work and wiring!

#13 datzenmike

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 04:28 PM

Offer 2 for the single. Offer 3 for the DE that's sitting on the ground next to it.

ECU, harness, coil, trans. Does this motor come with any of those?

 

It's also a car KA so all the same bad reasons.


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#14 Lockleaf

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 04:39 PM

To use that ecu and harness will also require the intake manifold and injectors etc. 240 is mpfi d21 is tbi.


That engine will cost you another $300-500 to get everything you need just in parts for it. Not including swap brackets or wiring boxes.

Better bet is to buy a running 2wd 1990 or newer d21 beater for $800. You can know condition of the drivetrain, you have every part necessary to make it run and its the closest to fitting your truck you can get from one single vehicle.

The harness is the worst part. D21 engine harness is part of the complete vehicle harness. It can be separated though it isn't fun to do.

And it will cost the same as what you are looking at and have huge advantages over piecing together a drivetrain

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#15 flatcat19

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 05:16 PM

It's also a car KA so all the same bad reasons.


I dont get what you're saying. Bad reasons?

You can't hang if your nuts haven't dropped...it's physics


#16 datzenmike

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 05:40 PM

Car oil pans are deeper at the front and a truck steering won't work with it. The oil pan needs to be deeper to the rear where it is out of the way.  You can't just slip a truck D21 oil pan on to 'convert it' because a car KA also has a large heavy crank girdle that interferes with a modified oil pan. Anything is do-able, but a Hardbody truck engine is just easier to fit into a truck. In addition the car KA is a much heavier block.


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#17 Acardiel11

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 06:21 PM

Offer 2 for the single. Offer 3 for the DE that's sitting on the ground next to it.

ECU, harness, coil, trans. Does this motor come with any of those?


No won't come with any of those. I do already have a 5speed 280 trans in my 620.

#18 Acardiel11

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 06:28 PM

Thank you all! I think I may just pass on this unless I can talk him down.

#19 datzenmike

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 06:42 PM

Well you will need a Z series front case for that transmission if you want it to fit the KA.


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#20 FrankRizzo

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 06:58 PM

Im upping my p0st count here!  :rofl:


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