wayno Posted December 8, 2017 Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 The PVC will not work where you put it, you might as well delete it if that is where it is, the PCV has to be on the intake manifold, and it is best placed where the plate is that you made. Where it is now is just a dead end for the engine/block breather tube, now all the air either gets sucked in or blows out the valve cover vent, there is not enough vacuum to make the PCV work where you have it. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 Should of listened to you guys before I installed the manifold lol. Thought I could get away with the valve cover hose Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 8, 2017 Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 Should of listened to you guys before I installed the manifold lol. Thought I could get away with the valve cover hose You can, but you do not have a PCV valve anymore. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 You can, but you do not have a PCV valve anymore.Crappy catch can then? It needs vacuum right? I can probably tap the hole still down the road, I filled it with a small amount of jb weld, but now there’s the issue with debris in the intake. I might be getting it wrong since I believe there’s pressure coming from the crankcase, I know this was already gone over a couple of pages back, and I remember mike mentioning catch cans and having to empty them. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 8, 2017 Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 Crappy catch can then? It needs vacuum right? You could put it where that plug is on the number 1 and 2 intake runners if it will fit the hole, but all the fumes would go thru them cylinders only, number 3 and 4 would not get any of that air, it is best placed just under the carb where the plate is you made. Why don't you just find another intake manifold that has the PCV in another place like the one in this photo that Mike posted. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 8, 2017 Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 Just take your cover plate back off and tap it. There's maybe enough thickness or make another out of thicker aluminum to tap. The PCV is well worth the bother to keep functional. Over 60 years ago you would be considered very lucky to get 100,000 miles out of most engines. If the oil was changed every 1,000 to 2,000 miles you might, and most engines didn't even have filters. Oil and bearings have come along way but to off set this, these engines didn't make much HP either. The PCV will keep the oil cleaner and extend the change interval. My dad had a 6 year old '51 Chev. I remember our neighbor helping him change the bearings in it. Bearings were made soft like butter so that any foreign debris would embed and not scratch the journalcs No oil pump so no filter. Everything was splash lubricated. The rocker arms relied on the crankshaft 'scooping' oil and pushing it up to the top of the engine which could take several minutes to get there. The oil pan had over a half inch of sediment in the bottom. It was a light colored paste like putty that had to be scraped out. With no filter there was no need for detergent oils. You wanted dirt to settle quickly rather than be carried to the bearings. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 Well today was the day to try and start it, took a couple of videos, this one was the closest to it running. What worries me is the rattling noise, sounds like the chain. Having some car woes at the moment and feeling is screwed everything up. The carb is absolute garbage so that doesn’t help it not firing, and yes I tried using starting fluid. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 After going over some footage, I found that the noise is from the distributor. Any thoughts? I’m also leaning towards the crap carb being the culprit. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 Check valve lash. Is the dizzy installed correctly? I didn't watch your video, BTW. Just thinking out loud. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 Watched your video. That dizzy sounds like crap. Pull a wire to check for spark. Pull fuel hose to check for fuel. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 Watched your video. That dizzy sounds like crap. Pull a wire to check for spark. Pull fuel hose to check for fuel. Gonna tripple check the wires and fuel tomorrow, and yes I set the lash prior to installing the head. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 I would check the set it up again, turn it to TDC, pull the valve cover and make sure both valves on number one are somewhere around 10am-2pm/11am-3pm, if not turn the crank one turn and check the valves again as it might be 180 out, once that is right pull the distributor cap off while it is at TDC and look where the rotor is pointing, it should be pointing directly at the post and that is number one spark plug wire, if that is correct disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump, then pour around a teaspoon of gas down the carb and it should start and run for a couple seconds, if it doesn't start then something else is wrong, check the firing order, 1, 3, 4, 2 counter clock wise, don't assume it is right, check it, it is counter clock wise 1, 3, 4, 2. Don't use starting fluid, use a small amount of gas(teaspoon), it will run for a few seconds and die, then figure out if fuel is getting to the carb, personally I fill the carb bowl up with fuel using a vent tube, if you believe it is not getting fuel then have someone pump on the gas pedal while you are looking down the carb, do you see it squirt, if not you are not getting fuel. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 I would check the set it up again, turn it to TDC, pull the valve cover and make sure both valves on number one are somewhere around 10am-2pm/11am-3pm, if not turn the crank one turn and check the valves again as it might be 180 out, once that is right pull the distributor cap off while it is at TDC and look where the rotor is pointing, it should be pointing directly at the post and that is number one spark plug wire, if that is correct disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump, then pour around a teaspoon of gas down the carb and it should start and run for a couple seconds, if it doesn't start then something else is wrong, check the firing order, 1, 3, 4, 2 counter clock wise, don't assume it is right, check it, it is counter clock wise 1, 3, 4, 2. Don't use starting fluid, use a small amount of gas(teaspoon), it will run for a few seconds and die, then figure out if fuel is getting to the carb, personally I fill the carb bowl up with fuel using a vent tube, if you believe it is not getting fuel then have someone pump on the gas pedal while you are looking down the carb, do you see it squirt, if not you are not getting fuel. This might be dumb but I’m so confused. I’m getting three different things, does the firing order follow the piston order. I have my wires hooked up this way at the moment with the rotor pointing to the number 1 post at TDC Red line being the spark plug wires. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 Correct Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 lol smokes just a little bit, this thing has been a pain in the ass, really hoping it’ll clear its throat and clean out, we did spray a bunch of starter fluid into it yesterday and probably flooded it so who knows but for now it runs. Ran it for or a total of maybe 2 minutes cause I didn’t want to smoke my neighbors out. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 11, 2017 Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 To recap.... the head was rebuilt? What about rings? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 11, 2017 Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 I have put a new rebuilt head on a couple of used engines in the past, but they were not using any oil when I changed out the head, and they didn't smoke after starting them either. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 11, 2017 Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 Two minutes isn't enough time to burn off any oily fingerprints. What about the oil on the valve stems when it was assembled? Take for a drive. Check the oil level. Coolant may have dribbled into the pan when the head was removed and raised it. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 It’s slowly clearing out, smells heavy of gasoline. I’ll run it more tomorrow and check back in. Also there was quite a bit of coolant in the pan when I drained it before putting the new oil in, so there definitely was water in the pan. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 11, 2017 Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 That will boil away. Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted December 11, 2017 Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 You didn't change the oil? Does your exhaust smell like cotton candy - burnt antifreeze? That's WAY too much smoke. Its one thing for the motor to smoke while oil burns off and paint cures. Its another to blow a massive amount of smoke out the tailpipe. The only thing that comes out the tailpipe is what goes into in the combustion chamber. You have something in excess. Fuel, water, ??? Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted December 11, 2017 Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 do a compression check and check your dipstick for oil and water combo. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 No more smoke, drove it around the block, everything is wonderful, except I think my temp gauge doesn’t work. Oil is clean and full. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted December 11, 2017 Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 How long did u drive it for? Takes maybe 10 min for temp. To read when its very cold. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 How long did u drive it for? Takes maybe 10 min for temp. To read when its very cold. About 10 minutes, needle never moved. My ignition tumbler/switch came loose so have to hold it from The back to turn the key lol. Also the shifter bushing is toast and is flimsier than a plastic bag. And boy oh boy the factory steering wheel feels like your driving the truck with a coat hanger. But I sure do love it. Quote Link to comment
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