Atikin9000 Posted December 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2017 Truck smokes on cold starts, soon as the choke kicks off the smoke stops and the smoke smells heavy of gasoline. Is it getting flooded? The electric choke has a screw on it and I haven’t read anything about adjusting those. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted December 12, 2017 Report Share Posted December 12, 2017 Maybe too rich. Check your spark plugs. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 12, 2017 Report Share Posted December 12, 2017 Steamy exhaust on cold start up in the cold is normal. The choke adjustment is only for setting when cold. All electric chokes should warm and turn off in 5-8 minutes. Take the top of the air filter off and look when it's warmed up and see if open. The temp sender is on the front of the thermostat housing and has a Yellow/White wire... that may have fallen off. If the wire is on, take it off and on a couple of times to clean and make better contact. If still no good, ground the wire does the gauge read FULL HOT. YES.... the sender is bad No...... If still not working, does the gas gauge work? NO..... Both gauges do not work... the volt regulator for gas and temp is not working YES... Gas gauge works... there is a break in the wire between the gauge and the sender. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2017 I’ll do some checks tomorrow but for now I have a little video of first start this morning and it shows the smoke, very stinky and kinda smokes bombs my parking lot until it warms up. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2017 Oh and the temp gauge works, stayed in a middle after warm up and a short drive. I also fixed the ignition switch. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2017 Kind of a random post too, I was the the local junk yard this morning and cam across very old electricians equipment and this old Kemper Radio. Also saw the largest rear axle in my life today Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 So I was wondering about re torqueing, I have maybe 5 or 6 miles on it and a total of an hour of running time between idling and me taking a couple of short drives. I was thinking of checking it tomorrow but I’m just wondering if it’s better to wait or just check multiple times. I know a guy that blew up his 521 cause he didn’t retorque. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 So I was wondering about re torqueing, I have maybe 5 or 6 miles on it and a total of an hour of running time between idling and me taking a couple of short drives. I was thinking of checking it tomorrow but I’m just wondering if it’s better to wait or just check multiple times. I know a guy that blew up his 521 cause he didn’t retorque. That is a Z24 thing as far as I know, maybe Z blocks in general, I never heard about this re-torque thing involving L blocks. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 That is a Z24 thing as far as I know, maybe Z blocks in general, I never heard about this re-torque thing involving L blocks. I know mike mentioned it in this thread before. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 Z24 only. No harm in re-torquing other engines but not really needed. Only do on a dead cold engine. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 I re-torque all Datsun motors. Things move around during the first couple heat cycles. Quote Link to comment
abbylind Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 Kemper radio.... http://www.antiqueradios.org/gazette/kemper.htm Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 I specifically was talking about the headbolts, I’d prefer not ding up my painted valve cover but I’ll do it if it means save the engine. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 You can but not necessary. I don't think they were from the factory. Most gaskets say no re-torque on them. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 Well it ran fine yesterday with a high idle around 1200-1300 and it occasionally would stall out, went to start it today and it sounds like this, choke is off and it continued sounding this way and stalling past 1000rpm even after it warmed up pretty good, any thoughts? I took a short sound clip in the dark if you’re curious to hear how it sounds. And here’s a clip from yesterday. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 After stewing on it for an hour, it sounds like a slight miss, might have fouled plugs, I’ve also been messing with this carb for the last 3 days with no luck. I did re use the old carb gasket along with a new thinner one stacked, and now I can see some gas around the sandwich plate between the carb and intake, maybe nice vac leak. I’ll do some checks tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 Looks like you're blowing excess fuel through the motor. That moisture at the tailpipe... is the motor up to temp? Holding your hand over the tailpipe should not result in a wet spray on your hand. That's excess fuel. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 If over rich, pull and look at the plugs. They would be black, dry and sooty. Moisture could be a coolant leak or just condensate in the exhaust from cold weather. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 That richness is one thing, I just think it’s missing now and running on 3 cylinders it sounds like, I haven’t checked anything yet so we will see. Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 That's exactly what a rich mixture will do. You'll start dropping cylinders. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 That's exactly what a rich mixture will do. You'll start dropping cylinders. Had a slight vac leak on the fuel rail, also the spark plugs were absolutely fouled. I’m gonna have some one look over the carb that’s a professional lol and I’ll check the plugs again see how she’s running. Runs smooth but stalls out as the rpms drop with the choke wide open, with the choke closed runs like garbage. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 When its running too rich your plugs will get sooty and grimy and electricity will not get there Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 Lean out your idle mixture. Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 Check your float height, and condition of your needle & seat. Did you by chance throw an electric fuel pump on it, and maybe have too much fuel pressure? Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted December 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 Mechanical fuel pump, and I believe I might have narrowed it down, cold start ups are over overly rich, and I think I’m leaning out once it’s warmed up, high idle and I have to keep it from stalling past 1000 rpm. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.