Re-core or replace RAD?

[racerx]

Take it to rad shop and see what they say. Ask them about the washer? Always good to save money, whenever you can. Good luck and keep us posted.

[Draker]

You can see there is a groove cut in in the threads of the outlet. That's likely to seat an o-ring.

[Crashtd420]

Agreed. Also no washer, looks like there was one at one time but not anymore. Besides not sure that was my problem because there was coolant under the core on the lip above the bottom tank and I don't think coolant would get up there while the truck was parked.

Fluids are son of a bitch ... when driving it can flow in different ways.... then just settle once parked.... I would hate to see you spend 250, for a 50 cent rubber washer.....

[d.p]

Yeah mine doesn't look like crashs, his o-ring seats on top of the threads flush with the RAD.  Mine would just sit on top of those threads flush against the pet cock.  

 

I guess this what it supposed to look like?

 

[racerx]

That o ring or washer will seat before the threaded part of the radiator and if you did not have that, it will leak.

[Draker]

Yeah mine doesn't look like crashs, his o-ring seats on top of the threads flush with the RAD.  Mine would just sit on top of those threads flush against the pet cock.  

 

I guess this what it supposed to look like?

 

 

Yep, just put a rubber washer there and call it a day. Or an O-ring, whatever you can find.

[hang_510]

Eat a dick is not an option.

its just the o ring on the pet cock

  

I'm not sure how to vote on this one...

[hang_510]

 

I wanted to maintain a stockish look so I went with a 3-core and haven't had any issues.

Always use a $0.50 rubber.

 

Next, I will go aluminum.

[banzai510(hainz)]

if the top and bottom is good do a 3 row recore. If possible

 

KOYO you need spacers to make fit right.

 

I have a stock 3row recore in my 510 (also fits 521)and just fits better. doesnt slam up against the core suppoert and smash the wires

 

I have a chinese alum 3 row and it needs spacers and it leaked new. I stuck soem rad seal in there and seams fine now

[DanielC]

Like a lot of Nissan electrical stuff, I believe the OEM radiator is higher quality then a  lot of after market stuff.   I have had good luck with a radiator shop, local to me, Superior Radiator in Oregon City, repairing radiators for 521 trucks, and and old tractor I have.  They also recommended a replacement for the radiator in my Aerostar when it split a seam between the plastic tank, and the aluminium core.  The shop tried two different aftermarket radiators in it, both developed leaks too soon.  The third time, I got a radiator out of a Aerostar at a local Pick-n-Pull junkyard, and that radiator has been working without problems for me.

 

The stock radiator will keep a L-16, or a L-18 cool in 90 degree heat, using a 521 to tow a two horse trailer with two horses, not ponies, up a 6 % grade.  That is about 35 MPH, in second gear, about 5.000 RPM.  Stock copper and brass radiators are much easier to repair, than aluminium.

 

Get the flat rubber washer for the petcock.  A radiator shop should have one that will fit.  Not only did my radiator shop have the washers, they also had a box full of used petcocks from various makes and models of cars and trucks.

 

Find a good radiator shop, and repair the original one.

[datzenmike]

Get a washer on that first and you may have no problem whatever. $0.02 fix.

[d.p]

Dropped it off today to have it looked at.  Old school radiator repair shop and probably 1 of 1 anywhere close to me.  

 

[racerx]

Those shops are getting rarer where I live.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Like a lot of Nissan electrical stuff, I believe the OEM radiator is higher quality then a  lot of after market stuff.  

Yes, I forgot to mention that in my first response. Nothing beats the quality of a copper/brass OEM radiator. They last a long time and when they do fail, they are usually repairable. That same thing cannot be said about aluminum radiators.

[racerx]

Dropped it off today to have it looked at. Old school radiator repair shop and probably 1 of 1 anywhere close to me.

 

You did not try to replace the o ring?

[d.p]

You did not try to replace the o ring?

 

Nope..wasn't going to go through having to put it back in, have it leak again and have to pull it out again.  

 

Decided while it was out to have it checked ($20) and go from there.  

[d.p]

2 leaks in the corner, they can repair it for $80 and throw in a washer.  

 

Should be done tomorrow. 

[Crashtd420]

Can't beat that....

[Crashtd420]

Before you put it back in, i would say it would be a Good time to put some paint on it..

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Have the rad shop dip it and paint it with the special radiator paint. And if you don't want the welded on tag that all rad shops put on their repair jobs, tell them now.

[d.p]

Yeah there was one on there already..concord radiator from when the truck was in CA.  They are going to paint it for me.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

That's funny. I used to bring my stuff to Concord Radiator. Small world.

[Ranman72]

i had a 3 core stock style copper radiator with a healthy built L20b and couldnt keep it under 195

I replaced with an aluminum koyo and duel electric fans  WISH I DID IT YEARS AGO 

now it stays just under 180 on the freeway and fans never turn on till in traffic and it might get to 185 on a hot day 

i wanted the stock look but it wasn't enough radiator just my 2 cents 

[d.p]

i had a 3 core stock style copper radiator with a healthy built L20b and couldnt keep it under 195

I replaced with an aluminum koyo and duel electric fans  WISH I DID IT YEARS AGO 

now it stays just under 180 on the freeway and fans never turn on till in traffic and it might get to 185 on a hot day 

i wanted the stock look but it wasn't enough radiator just my 2 cents 

 

Cool that helps.

 

But all I got is the stock temperature gauge so no idea what temperature mine gets to.  I do know that on a warm day it usually settles to the right of the break in the temp gauge.  

 

I can always buy a koyo down the road if need be to.  But for now I just wanted to stop the leak. 

[datzenmike]

I had an L20B swapped 521. Never even thought about the stock L16 rad. Worked fine.