79' 210 coupe a14 "rebuild" ?

[f1ndM3aTaco]

 

So this engine and car only has ~50,000 miles on it. But it hasn't had anything really done to it over the past 40 years. Car is going through a little restoring which I'm having no problem with but I want some advice as I go through the engine.

 

I used quotes on rebuild because I have a whole bunch of replacement parts: new battery, alt, coil, wires, plugs, fuel pump, oil pump, water pump, 32/36 weber, sensors, gaskets, etc. I want to replace everything to really make sure that everything has been at least gone through and addressed before I put this car back on the road.

 

The extent of what I have planned is getting the engine out, cleaning it all up, scrubbing it down, sanding and repainting a couple pieces (cover and oil pan). Them simply replacing all the parts with the new ones I have and regasket everything.

 

Considering this is my first build I wanted to ask the forum on what they would suggest and tips to keep in mind when working on an engine. Need all the tips and info I can get. Check out my build thread for more pictures too.

 

I guess my first question so far is

 

When I get to cleaning, what should I use? Prefer to use lesser harmful chemicals if possible, but more importantly what can I use considering the metals. Being from Maine and on the coast I wanna make sure nothing causes rusting or corrosion. Where on the engine should I be careful of getting chemicals or cleaners?

 

 

 

 

[racerx]

Maine, eh...I was stationed at Loring AFB back in the days. Nice people, beautiful country and cold ad fuck.

[racerx]

I would just do a compression check. Make sure car is warmed up, open throttle all the way, disconnect coil, and use screw in type of compression checker not plug in type, more accurate. Other than that check fluids and hoses, change if necessary.

[KELMO]

The first time I rebuilt an A motor I was fortunate enough to have a Nissan Master Tech looking over my shoulder.  If you know someone like that it can be a great help.

 

Get a service manual.  I have a Haynes manual that is not too bad.

Be sure to label all parts removed and where they were removed from and when replacing put them back in the same spot they came out of (push rods, pistons, lifters, piston rods, etc.)

Take your time, check and recheck your work.  If it doesn't seem right, take it back apart and do it again.

This is one of the most important items: All but one of the head bolts will be the same. The one that allows oil to travel to the head is in one of the center holes and will have a smaller shaft than the others...make sure it goes back in the same hole.

 

All I could think of off the top of my head.  I am sure others will chime in here soon enough.

[datzenmike]

Looks like it was in a wrecking yard with all those parts stripped. Maybe why it's in such good (non rusty) shape is it's been sitting for 25 years. Got to ask why it has only 50K... and not on the road.

 

 

 

Get a carb and intake and get it fired up tuned and running. That may not even be the original engine. If an oil burner, new gaskets are a waste of your time. Use them for a re-build. You can run a compression test cold and look for a low cylinder or two. 150 would be nice across the board. 120 is more than I like but if all cylinders are close to equal it will run smoothly but use oil. Sometimes after running, the compression will jump up as valves begin to clean up and seal better... but don't hold you breath as there may be damage. Expect the worst, hope for the best. I rebuilt an A14 back in the 70s. Easy to work on.

[f1ndM3aTaco]

Got to ask why it has only 50K... and not on the road.

Does it rustle your jimmies? :rofl:

 

I was at school, transmission was acting on me, had someone "fix" it, they fucked it up, and so I decided I'd leave the car at home and redo myself another time. Gonna go move out to AZ soon and this is my means of getting out there, so I want to take everything apart, inspect and rebuild/touch up before the cold comes around again and I go on my Western adventure.

 

And this car was bone stock when I got it, engine and everything is completely original I have all the parts I've taken off this past month and am holding on to them til I have the chance to rebuild, or just sell unrestored to anyone interested in doing a 79' 210 stock engine bay build. We shall see. Bought the car from a dealership that used to sell Datsun's in the town next to mine in the 70's and 80's. The original owner, now son runs it, had a few Datsun's that he kept in storage. This is one of them. Son decided to sell it off and so I got the car back around 2012 as my first car. Now going through a complete look over/clean/replacing of anything broken for until income increases and plans develop.

 

If an oil burner, new gaskets are a waste of your time. Use them for a re-build. You can run a compression test cold and look for a low cylinder or two. 150 would be nice across the board. 120 is more than I like but if all cylinders are close to equal it will run smoothly but use oil. Sometimes after running, the compression will jump up as valves begin to clean up and seal better... but don't hold you breath as there may be damage. Expect the worst, hope for the best. I rebuilt an A14 back in the 70s. Easy to work on.

 

Last time I had a compression test done was by my neighbor around 2013-14 and everything checked out good. Something like 148? across the board. I forget. And not an oil burner, just leaking. Made the mistake of putting in synthetic a while back and she started leaking. Switched back as soon as I noticed but I think the damage has been done, so now that it's being taken apart I might as well just change them. Gaskets are cheap too so its no worries for me.

[datzenmike]

Ah well not all the info was there.

 

Synthetic won't do any harm, it's just too thin and slippery so it will pass used seals that the regular oil won't. Did the exact same thing on my 620 but after the second oil change it dried up.

 

Use a power washer to clean the block and head. Take your time and it will take anything off.No chemicals at all. If painting spray it down with brake cleaner to de-grease.

[f1ndM3aTaco]

Use a power washer to clean the block and head. Take your time and it will take anything off.No chemicals at all. If painting spray it down with brake cleaner to de-grease.

 

Good to know :thumbup: