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Just bought a 521


mainer311

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I’m not getting many hits on concrete BS info on the K5 rallies, but I did get one number of 3.625”. That equates to an offset of -22 on a 15x8” rim. Be careful, the 5 lug rally wheels are different than the 6 lug.

 

No way the rallies have a positive offset, look how dished they are.

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I’m not getting many hits on concrete BS info on the K5 rallies, but I did get one number of 3.625”. That equates to an offset of -22 on a 15x8” rim. Be careful, the 5 lug rally wheels are different than the 6 lug.

 

No way the rallies have a positive offset, look how dished they are.

I’ve been considering it as well but mixed reviews with his stuff. Mklotz/bluehands makes a lot as well albeit little more expensive.

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Well let us know how it goes.  You converting to a metric master and hard lines?  

 

Yeah, pain in my ass. I kept the stock "T" fitting to be used for the front lines and plugged the 4th hole. The rear brake line is brand new (installed by the PO), so I'm going to run a coupler and a short piece of tubing to the rear residual valve. 

 

I have a really nice Ridgid double flaring tool that I use. And I run Nickel-Copper lines because it's so easy to bend and flare (and doesn't rust). 

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Mikes kit uses 720 hubs, I even had to use late 620/early 720 disc brake hubs because I use stock wheels and the later hubs will not except the use of stock wheels, the hole in the center of the rim is too small.

You want the aftermarket residual valves as close to the brake master as possible, all Nissan brake masters have them in the master, I use 1979 Datsun 620 masters when I can.

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You want the aftermarket residual valves as close to the brake master as possible, all Nissan brake masters have them in the master, I use 1979 Datsun 620 masters when I can.

 

That's the same master that I bought. No aftermarket residual valves. 

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Sunday evening I finished the brake lines. Filled the master and waited a while for it to self prime. Bled the master for a bit, then cracked the bleeders on the calipers and let gravity take over. Checked for leaks and fixed them. Will do final bleed once everything is mounted.

 

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Then today I got a call that my wheel arrived. Got that mounted and balanced on my way home from work. I replaced the hub bearings and threw one back on, slapped the disc on, and mounted the test wheel. Stock studs are definitely too short, and the new ones haven’t arrived yet. Initial fitment is pretty good. Slight poke, but not bad.

 

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Someone is jealous

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-Beebani 4WD hardbody conversion requires 15" or bigger. This is the path that I took. 

-Mike's conversion requires cutting the stock spindle flange and upgrading to later model 620 or hardbody hubs, a route that I didn't want to take. It will fit the stock 14's, since the caliper is moved closer to spindle centerline, but I believe the rotor is also smaller in diameter.

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