d.p Posted January 24, 2018 Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 Now way they have a positive offset. We went through this before and the bs on them was like 4” which by math is -13. Hell you even said you thought they were -12 in my Chevy ralley thread. Someone else said -24. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted January 24, 2018 Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 They're really close to even, but no way are they negative. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 Test fit over the stock drums? Cause it will fit, lots of dudes run 15 x 8.5 k5 blazers which are right around that offset as well. Started the Beebani hardbody retrofit a couple days ago. 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 I’m not getting many hits on concrete BS info on the K5 rallies, but I did get one number of 3.625”. That equates to an offset of -22 on a 15x8” rim. Be careful, the 5 lug rally wheels are different than the 6 lug. No way the rallies have a positive offset, look how dished they are. 2 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted January 25, 2018 Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 That dish is even deeper on the back. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 25, 2018 Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 Yeah no way they are positive offset NO WAY. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 25, 2018 Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 I’m not getting many hits on concrete BS info on the K5 rallies, but I did get one number of 3.625”. That equates to an offset of -22 on a 15x8” rim. Be careful, the 5 lug rally wheels are different than the 6 lug. No way the rallies have a positive offset, look how dished they are. I’ve been considering it as well but mixed reviews with his stuff. Mklotz/bluehands makes a lot as well albeit little more expensive. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 I almost bought Mike’s kit, but I didn’t want to cut a corner off of the stock spindle. Mike’s kit also requires the use of hardbody front hubs, and I had a hard time locating a set for cheap. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 25, 2018 Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 Well let us know how it goes. You converting to a metric master and hard lines? Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 Well let us know how it goes. You converting to a metric master and hard lines? Yeah, pain in my ass. I kept the stock "T" fitting to be used for the front lines and plugged the 4th hole. The rear brake line is brand new (installed by the PO), so I'm going to run a coupler and a short piece of tubing to the rear residual valve. I have a really nice Ridgid double flaring tool that I use. And I run Nickel-Copper lines because it's so easy to bend and flare (and doesn't rust). 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 25, 2018 Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 Mikes kit uses 720 hubs, I even had to use late 620/early 720 disc brake hubs because I use stock wheels and the later hubs will not except the use of stock wheels, the hole in the center of the rim is too small. You want the aftermarket residual valves as close to the brake master as possible, all Nissan brake masters have them in the master, I use 1979 Datsun 620 masters when I can. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 You want the aftermarket residual valves as close to the brake master as possible, all Nissan brake masters have them in the master, I use 1979 Datsun 620 masters when I can. That's the same master that I bought. No aftermarket residual valves. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 The residual valves are in it where the "R" and "F" are, 10lb for the rear, 2lb for the front, I don't believe they make them without residual valves but you can take them out. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 ? I want them there. All I said was that I was running an inverted flare coupler from the existing rear brake line to the rear residual valve on the master. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 Sorry, I guess I misunderstood what you said. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 Sunday evening I finished the brake lines. Filled the master and waited a while for it to self prime. Bled the master for a bit, then cracked the bleeders on the calipers and let gravity take over. Checked for leaks and fixed them. Will do final bleed once everything is mounted. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 Then today I got a call that my wheel arrived. Got that mounted and balanced on my way home from work. I replaced the hub bearings and threw one back on, slapped the disc on, and mounted the test wheel. Stock studs are definitely too short, and the new ones haven’t arrived yet. Initial fitment is pretty good. Slight poke, but not bad. Someone is jealous 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 stock wheels!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 stock wheels!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Won’t fit disc brakes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 Lol. Not even with spacers they won’t clear? 15” at least? Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 Won’t fit disc brakes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I don't know what's happening with your brakes, but my 320 wheels fit my 720 balljoint conversion just fine. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 I think it depends on the kit... Beebani's say minimum of 15" rims.... I think mike klotz kit will work with the stock 14s... 3 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 -Beebani 4WD hardbody conversion requires 15" or bigger. This is the path that I took. -Mike's conversion requires cutting the stock spindle flange and upgrading to later model 620 or hardbody hubs, a route that I didn't want to take. It will fit the stock 14's, since the caliper is moved closer to spindle centerline, but I believe the rotor is also smaller in diameter. 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 Got the longer studs tonight and put it back on the ground. I may have problems if I hit large bumps/potholes. I'll likely baseball bat the lips on the front fenders. 2 Quote Link to comment
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