enbay1 Posted September 12, 2017 Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 Hello, I'm trying to get my truck to idle sub 1000 to get it smogged. The truck idles at 1100 when the linkage sticks, and about 850 when I push the linkage down. 850 is perfect, and I'm wondering where my linkage could be sticking up. When I goose the throttle after pushing the linkage down it makes a metallic click/ping/spring noise. Here's a video. Thank you for your time and knowledge! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 12, 2017 Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 It's more a throttle cable than a linkage. Have you loosened the adjustment nut and made sure it's not a tight cable causing this? If you disconnect the cable at the carb end you eliminate the cable as a cause. Does it still 'hang up? If yes then not the cable. Is the return spring damaged or has it been replaced with another? 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted September 12, 2017 Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 Listen to Mike!!!!! Quote Link to comment
enbay1 Posted September 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 Listen to Mike!!!!! Isn't that what we all do? Quote Link to comment
enbay1 Posted September 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 Good news! When I take off the throttle cable it does idle fantastically. It starts up, idles at 1200, then drops down to 850 or so. However, I don't know how to adjust the cable so that it does not pull the throttle linkage. Throttle adjustment nuts Pedal There is free-play in the pedal, though from the picture it doesn't appear so. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 Loosen the nut, turn cable in towards carb, tighten nut. Make sure there are no kinks, tight bends or damage to the throttle cable Listen to Mike!!!!! We have little choice? Quote Link to comment
enbay1 Posted September 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 I've got no kinks, bends, or damage, and the cable is adjusted all the way toward the carb. Where else can I look to get that tiny amount of slack I need? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 Bend that bracket towards the carb. But you shouldn't have to. Forgot to ask if the idle speed screw is turned out to lower the idle??? Quote Link to comment
enbay1 Posted September 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 Yes, the idle screw is all the way out. Long story short, the guy who abused the truck before me though drilling out the A/F idle mix screw was a good idea. So when I got it it wouldn't idle. I've spent a long time messing with the mix, a vacuum gauge, my ears, the idle screw, and finally made it start, idle, idle down, and run well. But it was still idling high, so I worked my way to the throttle. Once I pressed that down I got it to idle at 850 or so, which is perfect for the smog test. So if you've got any ideas about how to make this thing work optimally using those things I'd love to hear them. I think I've got it pretty good at this point though. Assuming I can get the throttle cable thing down... -_- Quote Link to comment
720inOlyWa Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 Is this a stock carb, or a Weber? I had a similar complaint and messed around replacing the cable, etc.. In the end, it was a very small air leak at the base of the Weber carb that was making it act like a sticky throttle. It would ‘let go‘ when the butterfly actually started to open, making it feel like a sticky cable. I do not want to throw a monkey wrench into this thread, but rechecking for air leaks around the base of the carb might not be a bad idea either... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 http://Here's a video. shows a stock carb Quote Link to comment
enbay1 Posted September 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 So, I took the throttle cable off and it seemed to fix the problem. Today I went out to put the throttle cable back on after doing my choke adjustment and found that the throttle linkage needed to be pushed down like before to achieve low idle. So now I've got the same problem, but it doesn't make a stuck noise when it frees and is also a lot easier to free after pushing it down. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 Well push that bracket that holds the throttle cable towards the valve cover. Bend it slightly. This should effectively lengthen the cable. Quote Link to comment
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