Arp head studs

[KamakSun]

Hi ratters,

 

I acquired a set of arp head studs that are for l24, l26 and l28 engines. Can these be use on an l20b?

 

Thank you,

 

Kamaksun

[datzenmike]

10 of them, you can.

9 long and 1 short one left side center beside the carb.

[Doctor510]

10 of them, you can.

 

9 long and 1 short one left side center beside the carb.

Actually, 4 long and 6 short

[datzenmike]

Wow looking right at the picture and still got it wrong.  :blush:  :lol:  The FSM uses A and B. Thank-you Dr.

 

 

S..L

S..L

S..S

S..L

S..L

RAD

[KamakSun]

And the set should have those?

[Crashtd420]

There are alot of similarity between the L4 and L6. Just 2 extra cylinders, even the heads.... you should have what you need plus a few extra studs....

[distributorguy]

You will need to install some of the nuts and washers as you set the head in place, if you mount the cam to the head prior to head installation.  Not a big deal - a little trickier than using stock bolts.  A LOT more time consuming.  

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Have I mentioned that I hate head studs.

 

You don't NEED them on an L series. Even race motors don't need them. Late model head bolts are strong enough. And a lot less hassle.

[KamakSun]

Ok, then that brings up a whole new topic. New thread time!!!!

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

It's not a new topic. Many have answered the questions you are asking.

[hang_510]

 

You don't NEED them on an L series.

Its either the studs or the nismo HG, but this combo has yet to fail.

(never used nismo HG with stock bolts)

[wayno]

I used the stock head bolts on my LZ23 and lost the Felpro head gasket within a couple months, I made another LZ head gasket and used an ARP head stud kit and have been driving it since without issues since 2011, I now have 3 engines with them as of a couple weeks ago.

If the Z24 engine had come with them stock, they would likely not be blowing head gaskets and have to have the head bolts re-torqued every year or two.

I like them myself, I just last week changed the head out in my 520 kingcab ute, I didn't have to chase the block threads, I just threaded the studs in with my fingers, dropped on the head gasket and the head, then put the washers/nuts on with torque lube, torqued them in 4 stages, put it back together and I was good to go.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Its either the studs or the nismo HG, but this combo has yet to fail.

(never used nismo HG with stock bolts)

 

 

I used the stock head bolts on my LZ23 and lost the Felpro head gasket within a couple months,

I have built many, many high HP L series street and racing engines using stock head bolts and OEM Nissan head gaskets. Yes, most of the GT motors had o-ringed blocks, but not all of them.

 

I stand by my statement that you don't need head studs. The late head bolts with the ring around the top work just fine.

[scooter]

my lz23 is 12.3:1 and has a 100 shot on it and has not failed yet, arp head studs and that ugly composite z24 head gasket. this is year 3 on the motor and a couple bottles have been run though on the 100 shot now...

 

IMO its cheaper to push a head gasket out than break a rod so i will continue to use fail-pro shitty composite head gaskets even though i havint popped one yet... L series FTW

 

the last 2 years it was on a 75 shot and has had a dozen or so bottles ran through it

[Lozer]

I went through 2 sets of head bolts on my franken ka  (11.5:1) before i pulled the trigger on the studs, has held perfect ever since.  Will always use studs in the future after doing this shit 3 times.

[datzenmike]

KAs use 'torque to yield' bolts that cannot be reused.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Hmmm.

 

Sure they can. It may be recommended that they not be re-used, but that's like a yellow light...merely a suggestion.

[datzenmike]

L and Z series head bolts are totally reusable.

 

 Let me put it this way, would you reuse torque to yield bolts that have already been stretched to their limit on one of your builds???

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

No, you're right, but back when I was building GT3 KA24 12 valve motors, we used them over and over again and I don't recall ever breaking them. To be fair, We didn't use the torque angle method to tighten them, we used a torque wrench set at 56#, just like a good L series bolt. Maybe that allowed them to be retain their strength.

 

Which brings us back to the original topic again - stock head bolts on racing engines.

[datzenmike]

What compromises the TTY bolts is that they are torqued to a certain mount then given n extra 90 degree? turn which stretches them like rubber. In theory they will return to original shape, no harm bone, but there is the real risk that they may over extend and be permanently stretched/distorted. L series are plenty strong and the Turbo zx ones even stronger. I think in over ten years here I have only heard of one L bolt breaking off in the block and can only assume it snapped off while loosening because it was seized..