Best Place to Source Brake Parts?

[720inOlyWa]

I usually leave the brake jobs to the professionals. But this time, I‘d like to take a whack at it myself. Rotors, calipers, shoes, wheel bearings.  Any advice on where to source brake parts for the best quality?  Thanks!

 

[datzenmike]

I think you can specify what you want by cost at NAPA. More quality = more expensive.

 

Unless really messed up calipers do not need changing unless damaged or leaking. Rotors can also be turned down to true them up for new pads. However the cost of milling may be such that new are worth it. It was $18 to turn my Omni rotor and $20 for new .

[720inOlyWa]

Yeah, the calipers seem fine to me. But the rotors are pretty tired. Good to know that the typical price / quality rules the day. I have heard that ceramic pads are better, smooth rotors wear longer than grooved, drilled, or slotted ones. It just doesn‘t look like a big deal to change them out, so in we go! 

[Charlie69]

Napa is good but if I am not in a hurry I buy my brake parts from Rock Auto.

[flatcat19]

I really like CENTRIC branded parts. You can get them just about anywhere.

 

I have been installing them on customer's cars for many years. Hardly ever an issue.

[MikeRL411]

I think you can specify what you want by cost at NAPA. More quality = more expensive.

 

Unless really messed up calipers do not need changing unless damaged or leaking. Rotors can also be turned down to true them up for new pads. However the cost of milling may be such that new are worth it. It was $18 to turn my Omni rotor and $20 for new .

 

"Grizzly Grinders" can resurface discs still on the vehicle.  A big labor hours cost avoidance.  Just use a micrometer to be sure that disc thickness is still within spec!

[wayno]

I like Centric also, never had one of their products fail to work after installing(clutch/brake masters and wheel cylinders), and no core required as all their parts I have bought are new, not rebuilt.

Unfortunately they are made in Taiwan.

Every rebuilt product I have bought recently has failed(clutch/brake master) upon installation(never worked), I gave up on rebuilt parts.

It used to be I could only get Centric parts from one place in Vancouver, now even Costless has/carries the Centric brand, but not all the part numbers are the same on at least the wheel cylinders, I have bought two wheel cylinders with the same part number on the box, but they were different bore sizes, so check all the parts before leaving the store.

[mx71]

RockAuto/eBay/Amazon. When I'm impatient, I get things from Napa/Autozone, however they don't often have things in stock for my '85. Also, if they offer a lifetime warranty on pads, they're usually crap. Be prepared to change them every 8-10,000 miles.

[racerx]

When you do buy the parts, bring your parts with you and do a good job in comparing them with new ones.  Not sure if it's a China thing, but I bought rear brake parts at NAPA,  and the rear brake pads were too thick, thus, I could not get them to fit properly, even adjusting the screw all the way in, this is the one at the back of the rear brakes.  And the shims holding the ebrake, pistons together were cheaply made that when you put them back or slide them in, they bent too easily.  What should have taken like maybe an hour, it took me several days waiting for parts from another store and I think I went to Winchester.  Good luck.

[720inOlyWa]

There is a lot of helpful info here. Thanks, everybody.

I wont remove the calipers entirely for comparison at the parts store unless I have a serious caliper problem. Instead ,I will take the old pads and caliper photos with me and look for some Centric brake parts.

 

I am only concerned about the calipers because this truck sat for quite a while and those front pads seem to have a death grip on the rotors. I can‘t get the pedal to let the rotors go, even with repeated attempts to break it free. The master cylinder has already been checked and is working fine. I mention this because the clutch was also stuck until I removed and cleaned the clutch cylinder and drained and bled the system. Then, when pumping the clutch, I heard a small pop, and the clutch works fine now. That sound was from the little secondary regulator cylinder dealie there on the firewall.   So the calipers could just be dirty and seized and need to be worked loose again. That is the hopeful outlook. I dunno yet. They certainly are not leaking at all. 

 

 

I haven‘t dived into the brakes yet, but it is coming soon.

[flatcat19]

Pads are probably rusted to the rotors. Seen this many times on cars that sit outside for just a single winter.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The sliding pins on single piston calipers is often a sticking point (pun intended). So even though the calipers may not be leaking, the sliding pins may need to come apart and get some cleaning and grease.

 

Seven years is the magic number for length of time left sitting. I have revived many old vehicles and it seems like when they sit for seven years or longer, ALL the hydraulic parts need replacing. Even if it works on your first attempt at revival doesn't mean that it won't "pop" soon.

[flatcat19]

^ That!!!

 

 

When it comes to brakes, when in doubt- replace it anyways.

 

 

 

Brake parts are actually rather inexpensive for what you're getting.

 

 

Compile a list on RockAuto and see where everything stands.

 

I replaced every piece of the brakes on my 521 except the drums and the main hard lines; grand total was around $200. I flushed the main lines with new brake fluid and machined the drums myself at work.

 

EDIT: I rebuilt the adjusters myself too.