L16 hesitating, quits and hard to restart

[d.p]

Word. Double jumper?? This?

https://mobileimages.lowes.com/product/converted/032076/032076929442.jpg

My coil got two terminals on both pos. and neg. so can't I just connect the red wire to pos ballast resistor side and black wire to the second neg terminal on the coil and be done? Wouldnt need to cut anything then?? Red wire is yellow (spliced) in my picture.  

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

that yellow wire goes to the ballast resistor where the wht/blk wire is, this is the full 12volts.  On photo its the left side of the white side of ceramic block(blk/wht wire)

hooking to the + side coil is only 6 volts as the current gets cut in half since its going to the ballast resistor

 

I guess you can unscrew the lug(look like a 8mm)  put the yellow wire round lug on there and be done

 

 

dont ever use those Blue connectors on a nice truck like that.  I consider those hack wireing.

[d.p]

Cool. I installed the dizzy but the rotor isn't pointing directly at a wire. Do I then need to reclock the oil pump one tooth to line it up?

[datzenmike]

Yes. Pull the distributor. There is a geared spindle driven off the crankshaft that turns the oil pump and the distributor. Drop the oil pump (messy so expect oil drips and have a rag handy) and the spindle usually falls out with it. Put the spindle into the pump and seat it and turn it. (at this point I will say randomly, because I have tried to do this methodically and... forget it) Install the pump with one bolt and check distributor fit and rotor direction. When it's under a plug wire on the cap finish, bolting in the oil pump. The oil pump gasket is paper thin and as long as not torn can be re-used. I made mine from a cereal box.

 

Where ever the rotor is pointing.... THIS becomes the new #1 plug. The others are  3 4 2 in a counter clockwise direction, just re-arrange the plug wires.

 

This is also a good time to position the distributor so the vacuum advance is not going to hit the thermostat housing when turning it to set the timing or move the matchbox module away from the exhaust side..

[d.p]

Thanks...I get where the rotor points that becomes #1 and so forth.

 

But when I pull the oil pump and the spindle does that change the position of the tang at the bottom of the dizzy pedestal?  That is what is on the other end of the shaft no?  And that is what controls where the rotor points?  Right now the other end of the rotor points to my #1 wire, can I just turn/clock the spindle 180? 

[racerx]

Mike, its been awhile, but if I recall, theirs a punch mark and a triangle mark that lines up the oil pump spinal?

[d.p]

Mike, its been awhile, but if I recall, theirs a punch mark and a triangle mark that lines up the oil pump spinal?

 

It does...but does it matter because that will move once I clock this fucker right?

 

 

And I have spare pump/shaft/dizzy to mess around with.  

 

[racerx]

Is the tang at 11.25 o'clock position? The other fatter half should be facing towards the car. Awhile back I asked you to watch banzai510, hainz video, it should make sense.

[d.p]

racerx I appreciate your help I really do BUT I am past that right now.

 

With the tang (in my truck) at 11:25 (TDC #1) and this dizzy the rotor doesn't point to a wire and I don't have enough adjustment to get it lined up.  Therefore I need to re clock the shaft to get the rotor pointing in the right direction.   I was simply answering you question about the alignment marks on the shaft/pump and now I just need confirmation that re-clocking it and not having the tang at 11:25 w/smaller side facing front will not matter.     

[racerx]

When you did tdc, you sure you are at compression stroke, if you take off valve cover, first 2 cam lobes should be at 10 and 2 o'clock position and if u insert a pencil to number #1 spark plug hole you should feel the piston.

[d.p]

Said fuck it and re-clocked the shaft...

 

Rotor is now pointing to the old #4 wire w/fair amount of timing adjustments left.  Will move the firing order and see how it runs.  

 

[racerx]

You sure rotor is pointing at #4 spark plug wire? If so, I think you are 180 degrees off.  Maybe TDC was at exhaust stroke not compression stroke.  If TDC was at compression stroke then rotor should be pointing towards #1 spark plug, front 2 cam lobes should at 10 am and 2 pm position and if you put your finger on #1 cylinder you should have felt air coming out when coming up for compression stroke.  If 180 degrees out, it can be done but you will have to re-route your wires, you may not have enough play for distributor to do timing.  It's always good to do it right so that you are not fudging it.

[Crashtd420]

It's only pointing to #4 now because he reset the firing order once already....

When he pulled the original dizzy he was in the correct tdc location rotor pointing to number 1....

[d.p]

It's only pointing to #4 now because he reset the firing order once already....

When he pulled the original dizzy he was in the correct tdc location rotor pointing to number 1....

 

Correct.

[racerx]

Said fuck it and re-clocked the shaft...

 

Rotor is now pointing to the old #4 wire w/fair amount of timing adjustments left. Will move the firing order and see how it runs.

 

...

 

But he said he reclocked the shaft?

[d.p]

Yeah i did because the rotor didn't line up with any plug when I pulled mine and put this one in. I just want to be sure I am doing this right.

Here is where it is now..is that close enough to a plug to work? Rotor is pointing back towards the firewall and I can't adjust the dizzy enough where it is to get it lined up dead on a plug.

From my understanding it doesn't matter where the rotor points as long as it points to a plug? That plug then becomes #1?? Or does the rotor need to point in a specific direction?

 

 

[datzenmike]

The two holes that line up will give you the 11:28 position.

[banzai510(hainz)]

if motor is at TDC

 

then put dizzy in and where it locks down is going to be #1 position.

 

set the timming plates so its in the middle . then 1 3 4 2 CCW fire order and then slower adjust the dist so it starts. Mostly uyour adv it abit.

 

simple

 

the 180 is some people put the mount in 180 off and that what happens why one move the plug wires 180degs

[d.p]

Pertronix is installed and timing at 12 BTDC....truck started right up once I put it all back together.   Seems to be running well, will follow up if problems persist. 

 

Thanks everyone for your help.

[banzai510(hainz)]

GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

wonder why it came off the slots in the dizzy.   Just take note

[d.p]

Dunno, I had taken the pertronix out when I was looking to install it into my dizzy before I realized I had dual points..but I don't think I removed the top plate.  that holds it it in those slots.  Who knows though.  

 

Should I re-gap my plugs with the pertronix in there now?

[racerx]

What's your gap now? With pertronix, like other elec. Dizzy, you can go more.

[d.p]

.032

[racerx]

Try .037...drive it around for a few and check the color....btw dp, say no to crack.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I dont gap my plugs I just stick them in