Dirtyowlnumber4 Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 I have a 1976 Dastun B210 with a newer Nissan engine in it (don't know which year) It is running on 2 cylinders only, but which two cylinders it runs on varies.. When I took the engine apart I didn't pull the pushrods out right and a few of them got out of sequence.. They are all the same size so I didn't think it would matter where they went in, but everywhere I see people saying that it does.. Does it? Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 Wow, I can't remember for sure. I do remember having to replace a push rod in an "A" motor, soooo there is that. I can tell you that when I built mine I did take them out and replace in the same order. Only saying this as my opinion or it is how I did it and others can add theirs. I will also add this opinion; A12 motors seem rather indestructible, that being said, if the push rods weren't put back in the order they came out, I would think twice about it and move forward. Now someone will come by here and make me look like an 1d10t(happens all the time, I'm used to it). EDIT: ON your motor, on the passenger side, there is a # stamped...yours should start A14 XXXXX or A15 XXXXXX. If it does not, every thing I said is wrong. EDIT 2: BTW, welcome to the circus. Don't take anything personal on here. Post up some pics(imgur is the easiest), and do it soon. Keep those 2 things in mind, you will do fine here. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 If the valve lash wasn't checked and set they could have gone too tight. A valve that doesn't close properly can easily de activate that cylinder. An exhaust valve is cooled by the brief contact with the seat when closed. If not closing tightly, exhaust can squeeze past and will erode a notch in the face or seat, overheat and burn that valve or all of the above.. I'll check when I get home but probably I and E pushrods are the same on a wedge head engine. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 2, 2017 Report Share Posted September 2, 2017 I think they're all the same length, but that's easy enough to check. Do they need to go back on the same lifter? No. Are you sure you're not confusing lifters with pushrods? Lifters should go back in the same hole they came out of, but on an I series, the cam has to come out to get the lifters out anyway, so unless you pulled the cam, they shouldn't get mixed up. Quote Link to comment
Tom1200 Posted September 2, 2017 Report Share Posted September 2, 2017 You don't need to worry about push rods being in the same hole. I've pulled them out and not kept track of what position they were in. I've done it on both the A12 I was spinning to 8600 RPMs and my current A15 that sees 8200. It's a good habit to get into marking parts and putting them back in the same spot but end of the day the push rods will be fine. The lifters on the other hand are a different story; mixing them up can rapidly wear out the camshaft. If we are talking about lifters new ones are fairly cheap. Kelmo is right; A series motors will take heaps of abuse, I've spent the last 25 years proving it with various hillbilly fixes and other methodically casual approaches to assembling things. The one time I just totally missed the obvious the motor ran for 15-20 laps before the head gasket failed. Tom Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 2, 2017 Report Share Posted September 2, 2017 A13, A14 and A15 use the same part number for all push rods. A12 has a different number. May fit don't know, but different part so? Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 2, 2017 Report Share Posted September 2, 2017 A12 pushrods are shorter. Quote Link to comment
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