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#21 Velict

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Posted 09 September 2017 - 03:05 AM

It sounds like you're in a hurry. Slow down and take your time to measure and confirm things like the cylinder head. Go ahead and cc the chambers to get an accurate number then do the engine math to figure out the target cc for the piston (whether it be positive or negative cc).

 

Tom mentioned JE as a source. There's also WIseco. Those are my two top picks.

I'll slow it down. It's mostly just excitement. 

I have enough information as of right now. I'll start with disassembly and then a12gx head source. 



#22 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 09 September 2017 - 08:33 AM

Info I found says that the later A12 is still an A12 and is not to be confused with an A12A.

 

https://en.wikipedia...Nissan_A_engine



#23 Velict

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Posted 09 September 2017 - 11:03 PM

Yes I understand. I know that I have an A12... not the larger bore A12A. 

A12 block with A14 crank is the route i'm going. 



#24 JDOM310

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Posted 15 September 2017 - 06:12 PM

I'm currently working on my A14
Trying to just make it a dependable daily of sorts
With a little kick
Not crazy about horsepower or anything like That just learning ins and outs of A serieS
Anyone know if there is a book on just Aseries engine s?

#25 Tom1200

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 01:10 PM

Check this link;

http://www.datsunche...Rennteile75.pdf

It's a prep manual for the FWD F10 Datsun Cherry so ignore the non engine stuff but it gives all the info you need to prep an A series engine regardless of whether you are building a race motor or just rebuilding a stock motor.

I'm not 100% on CA smog rules if your car is smog exempt; go with moderate cam something around 270 advertised duration and .400-420 lift, a weber DGEV, header 2" exhaust and clean up the ports on the head. You can use SI valves, they are standard size but have a narrowed stem for increased flow. Use a .8 thick GX head gasket. All that should net another 20-25hp give or take. The car will,feel,like a rocket..........till you race a Camry up an on-ramp.

If you do have to smog it; then clean up the head, add the aforementioned valves, use GX spec cam, 2 inch exhaust and a .6 head gasket. I'd expect around 10-12hp increase. While that sounds a bit pathetic it's likely to decrease the 0-60 time by a full second and increase the top speed 5mph.

#26 gBaeza

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Posted 15 November 2017 - 03:58 PM

hello guys , can we apply all the replays from this post to a J series engine?



#27 afracer

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Posted 19 November 2017 - 10:04 PM

You want 150 horsepower and driveability in an A series then turbo it. If you have a rhd Sunny I've got a turbo kit for it I'll sell you as it doesn't fit my LHD B310. Its the only way to get those two things together from an A series!

#28 datzenmike

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Posted 20 November 2017 - 12:41 PM

gBaeza.... the J series only has three main bearings. The A series have FIVE and could support a battleship on them. I would be reluctant to build too much power into it. .


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#29 suhmon_sun

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Posted 27 December 2017 - 10:56 AM

what kinda spark plugs would you guys recommend?

I am thinking about these ones.

 https://www.amazon.c...uct_top?ie=UTF8

not sure though cause they are $10 each



#30 Tom1200

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Posted 27 December 2017 - 04:22 PM

I've been using the NGK Iridium plugs for a while, I find a difference between those and the standard NGK plugs but I couldn't say how they are on the street.

Tom

#31 scooter

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Posted 27 December 2017 - 08:45 PM

Where's Roger from Kelowna... he has a datsun1200 that's insane.. I bet it's making close to 150 hp.

It depends what you wanna deal with. I think my car is perfectly streetable despite its racy setup. Sure my car won't run on pump gas, but I decided that was an acceptable sacrifice.

If it's your daily and you have no alternate wheels, heed the warning of the guys here. If this cars more for kicks... then go for the 10000rpm fire breathing monster..

It's your car. Build it how you want it. Fuck the haters.

As for plugs, I've been running ngk v power race plugs as they are cheap as hell. The downside is the 11 heat range plugs foul fast if your just putting around town and not blasting away on a 100 shot.

Of course they make hotter ones though.

#32 Tom1200

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Posted 30 December 2017 - 02:32 PM

@scooter I fail to see the logic here; If it's my car I can build it however I wish but only if I have intercourse with at least 2 haters (haters is plural implying a minimum of 2) or do I have to have sex with all the haters (haters also implies a complete sub set of people)??
The latter seems like an awful lot of work and I've only got one tube of wheel bearing grease left.

For the record I'm using BPR7's (stock is 5) in the A15 as the motor fairly mild as race motors go.

#33 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 31 December 2017 - 09:45 AM

He said intercourse...

 

Some conditions don't agree with projected tip spark plugs. In the L street motors, a projected tip plug caused them to detonate (ping). I always used B6ES plugs in my long rod 2200 in my 510, and in just about every other 510 I ever owned. - "Quite often, a factory type, wide-gap projected plug will produce a misfire condition. The misfire is not due to the heat range. The misfire occurs because the ground strap of the spark plug becomes a glowing ember because it is too long to dissipate the extra heat."

 

Resistor plugs may not be the right choice either. - https://www.ngkspark...stor-spark-plug

 

How can you tell which is which? P = projected tip, R = resistor.