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Hello from Indiana with a 1969 521 short bed


mark13018

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Nice truck. Unlike other guys if I deem your truck worthy I'm willing to let my parts go. No reason to put perfect parts on a junk truck. I've given away or sold parts before just to see them end up at the junk yard and buy them back. Remember Ebay is your friend (unless your selling)

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If your door locks and ignition match you can just buy the locking gas door and glove box lock and take the tumblers out and rearrange them to match your key.http://community.ratsun.net/topic/6340-rekeying-a-521-glove-box-lock/?p=80275&hl=+rekeying%20+glove%20+box&fromsearch=1&do=findComment&comment=80275

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Thanks!

 

The steering wheel is cracked on the left bar near the stem. Difficult to repair area so I was hoping to find another used one...

The locks from the doors and the ignition don't match, I don't have the door keys, and I'm 99% sure the ignition switch is from something entirely different.

 

Definitely need a correct air cleaner housing. And some other smalls.

 

I'm scoping Craigslist and eBay for parts. Just playing the waiting game.

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The bolt pattern for the carb is the same between the J and L series.  A standard weber adapter will work on the J....the problem is that the air mix screw is too close to the valve cover to be able to adjust.  You need the DFV version of the 32/36.  It's a mirror image of the DGV.

 

Not sure if this link will work from photobucket....it's to the album with the pics/vids from when I converted the NL320 just before I sold it.  

http://s88.photobucket.com/user/mklotz70/library/NL320/Eng%20and%20Drivetrain/Carb%20swap?sort=2&evt=mobileappuploadnotify&loginFirst=true&postlogin=true&page=1

 

Even if I post links of the pics/vids, I can probably see them, but most people on here won't.  If anything, find my photobucket account, then the NL320 folder, then the Eng/drivetrain mods....then carb swap.

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yep....DFV is manual.....DFEV is electric....DFAV is water

 

Although....if I remember right.....Doug B....datsunaholic has put a couple of DG's on J series successfully in the past.  You just have to change up the throttle and fuel connections.

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I called pierce and they said the k657 is the correct one for my truck and I asked about motor size and he said they are very forgiving so it should still be close to bolt on ready...

 

So if the k657 is the same no matter where you get it, should I just go with the cheapest source as long as it is genuine weber and the k657 kit?

 

5XvOXae.jpg

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I called pierce and they said the k657 is the correct one for my truck and I asked about motor size and he said they are very forgiving so it should still be close to bolt on ready...

 

So if the k657 is the same no matter where you get it, should I just go with the cheapest source as long as it is genuine weber and the k657 kit?

 

5XvOXae.jpg

 

I haven't bought from them before, but you got multiple recommendations for them and they were there with the information you needed.  That should be worth any extra small amount of money you might save elsewhere. :)

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You could really save money and buy a cheap EMPI Chinese nock off and have a 1 in 10 chance of the carb actually working.

 

I have purchased Webers and Weber parts from Pierce Manifolds for over 3 decades.

 

I purchased 2 times from Redline and was not happy with thier service before and after the sale.  Hell Redline could not even tell you what fit.

 

Is Redline actually selling Webers made in Spain?

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By the way if you do buy a Weber take the linkage off your stock carb and put it on the Weber.  Do not over tighten the shaft nut and be sure to lock the nut down after checking to be sure the carb butterflies return properly after tightening the shaft nut.

 

It would be beneficial to you to study an exploded view of the Weber and get familiar with part locatins and names before you even buy one.  Knowledge of Webers is always good before you get one.

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