Humboldt Posted August 21, 2017 Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 Here's the hint from Hell, Louise: Those stubborn clutch line fittings to slave and master cylinder. Somebody recommended heat. I tried my mini propane tank nozzle firuing it up but it flamed out either when it fired up the saturation of liquid wrench or because, as the canister said " use upright". So I still needed to heat it. Here's the hack: I took a six way electric strip and plugged in two soldering irons and held them on the joint for what seemed a long enough time. Voila! 45 years of seized junction cracked open like Madonna on a Saturday night! I'm a genius! 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 21, 2017 Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 Wow! Never had that problem before. I usually just burn through the penetrating oil with the blue part of the flame. 2 Quote Link to comment
Humboldt Posted August 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 The wind kept blowing out my flame and when I could get it going it kept making a scary ignition of something--inverted canister? Whatever-- the soldering irons did the trick. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 21, 2017 Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 I'd hate to catch anything on fire. Oh wait, been there... Actually, my method is to try the heat first, before I spray it with any lubricant, and I always use WD40 (which is flammable) if the heat doesn't work. I focus the heat on the "nut" portion because as it heats, it will grow, loosening its grip on the tube fitting. If that doesn't work, that's when I hit it with the WD40. As it cools, it pulls the WD40 into the threads. I've used this method for years. 2 Quote Link to comment
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