Jump to content

Coolant Leak?!


Recommended Posts

So I realized I had coolant dripping. Did a litttle checking and found that it inly leaks when its been running a bit, no smoke or anything from the radiator, it runs fine, the oil does not look milky in any way. So I doubt it is a blown head gasket.

 

I am suspecting the water pump because I do not see any leaks in the radiator. Plus the area it is leaking makes me think the gasket on it has worn out.

It sounds really loud too and I doubt it has ever replaced

 

I have ordered this one from AZ and I will be replacing it tonight:

http://m.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/water-pump/duralast-new-water-pump/233999_381126_0

 

Anyone have any wisdom, things to check for while I am in there?

Thanks

Link to comment
  • Replies 29
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

If dripping where is it dripping??? this will tell you if the rad or the engine.

 

Look on the under side of the water pump just behind the pulley. Maybe use a mirror and a flashlight.There is a weep hole to drain water if the pump seal goes bad. Is it wet? Don't replace things if not needed. The replacement pump is much poorer quality that the one on there. Remove the belt, or loosen, and grip the fan blades and shove up and down and side to side. If the bearing is bad there will be a wobble. Spin the pulley by hand. It should turn smoothly and easily without roughness.

 

There should be a drain cock along the under side of the rad.

  • Like 3
Link to comment

Ok, found the drain cock. I am guessing I should use a pump to drain it rather than just letting it spooge all over the bottom of the bay as it drips out?

 

The leak sure looks like it is coming from under the bottom of the water pump. I tried the little mirror trick but couldnt see much, but I do see drops landing around the front under the pump and nowhere else on the engine. It also doesnt stink like I would imagine, if it was running over any of the engines hot bits.

 

What would be a better part to replace it with?

 

The belt driving the thing also got some coolant on it, probably should replace that too?

  • Like 1
Link to comment

If the pump is definitely leaking then get the one you posted. I was saying don't change it if this isn't the problem. The best pump would be the original one but those rebuilt ones will have to do. The belt will be fine if it's in good shape to begin with.

 

Get a cheap plastic container that will hold at least two gallons and is wide and flat to fit under there to catch the coolant. DO NOT let pets near the coolant it is sweet tasting and deadly to them and kids. Store it covered and out of the way. You can't pump the coolant out you can only drain it.

  • Like 2
Link to comment

If the pump is definitely leaking then get the one you posted. I was saying don't change it if this isn't the problem. The best pump would be the original one but those rebuilt ones will have to do. The belt will be fine if it's in good shape to begin with.

 

Get a cheap plastic container that will hold at least two gallons and is wide and flat to fit under there to catch the coolant. DO NOT let pets near the coolant it is sweet tasting and deadly to them and kids. Store it covered and out of the way. You can't pump the coolant out you can only drain it.

 

Will do, thanks.

Am I correct in thinking the shroud only comes out after removing the rad?

The Chiltons I have just says "remove the shroud" but it seems like it surrounds the fan and wont come out on its own.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

It does have a metal collar that goes around under the fan and clips in, but it is a solid piece of plastic that goes all the way around.

I can see how it might be thin enough to slip around the fan on the bottom, but then it has lips that fit under the rad so you can't pull it close enough to slip under.

I am just gonna pull the rad in the morning, since I am in there I might as well clean it out real good.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

I was able to remove the shroud and the radiator at the same time, had my friend lift/hold it while I massaged it around the fan. It was indeed a M/Fer.

 

Here is a pic of the shroud; As you can see there is this metal clip that goes around the back but the main thing is solid the way around

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1clQg_QvWC9OEdQOUNieUNjMzQ/view?usp=sharing

 

Here is a comparison of old and new pumps:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1clQg_QvWC9eDlfd1hrZkFTTDg/view?usp=sharing

The old pump has a little play in the gears but nothing crazy. It doesn't spin "easily" but it isn't grinding or anything.

Also I see what you mean, the new pump is generally crappier.

 

The cavity where the old pump was, rusty!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1clQg_QvWC9YkZpX0N6WENqUkU/view?usp=sharing

 

The way it dripped out when I removed the pump was really similar to how it looked when it was leaking, so I really think it was the gasket/pump.

It was also still wet directly underneath the pump before I removed it.

 

Can anyone tell me what this little black tank is for?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1clQg_QvWC9RVU0em9EX0s2Nm8/view?usp=sharing

Link to comment

If you don't know for certain the age of your radiator and heater hoses, this is an excellent time to put new ones on. It might save you an overheated engine, possible blown head gasket, and maybe a wrecker bill. New hoses are cheap insurance.

 

Ratsun wisdom says a water pump with a cast iron impeller (like your old pump) does a better job of moving coolant through the system than a pump with a stamped metal impeller (like your new one). But I've always wondered if that might be a Ratsun urban legend. Since you already have the new pump with stamped impeller, go ahead and put it on. I suspect many cars are driving around with these and doing fine. Since you live where I imagine it gets pretty warm now and then, you can be a stamped impeller guinea pig. :lol: I spent a lot of time looking for a pump with a cast iron impeller and it cost me over $100. I still wonder if I wasted time and money by not just buying the kind of pump you got. But let us know how it works for you the rest of the summer.

 

If you have rust in the cooling system it would be good to use a garden hose stuck in the radiator and heater hose openings and flush out as much of the old coolant and rust as you can before hooking up the hoses again. Then replace the coolant with new. Open the heater valve with the control on the dash and flush the heater core also.

 

Len

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Rad and heater hoses 'rot' from the inside out so they are not always noticeable to the eye. Feel them for softness and replace them if they are. The lower rad return hose, if soft, can collapse from high speed pump suction and cause over heating.   

 

The stamped impeller with all the sharp edges will cavitate at a lower RPM that the smoother cast one. Nissan would have gone with the stamped ones if they were better. Cavitation bubbles will erode the impeller and maybe even the back of the timing cover letting water into the oil pan. Not saying this will happen, only that it could happen. The cast impellers are best.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Power steering fluid reservoir.

Thanks!

 

If you don't know for certain the age of your radiator and heater hoses, this is an excellent time to put new ones on. It might save you an overheated engine, possible blown head gasket, and maybe a wrecker bill. New hoses are cheap insurance.

 

Ratsun wisdom says a water pump with a cast iron impeller (like your old pump) does a better job of moving coolant through the system than a pump with a stamped metal impeller (like your new one). But I've always wondered if that might be a Ratsun urban legend. Since you already have the new pump with stamped impeller, go ahead and put it on. I suspect many cars are driving around with these and doing fine. Since you live where I imagine it gets pretty warm now and then, you can be a stamped impeller guinea pig. :lol: I spent a lot of time looking for a pump with a cast iron impeller and it cost me over $100. I still wonder if I wasted time and money by not just buying the kind of pump you got. But let us know how it works for you the rest of the summer.

 

If you have rust in the cooling system it would be good to use a garden hose stuck in the radiator and heater hose openings and flush out as much of the old coolant and rust as you can before hooking up the hoses again. Then replace the coolant with new. Open the heater valve with the control on the dash and flush the heater core also.

 

Len

Thanks also, off to buy new hoses!

Link to comment

I recently faced my rad up and filled a jug with CLR and topped with water. Sat for three days. Cleaned the accumulated scale out and rad works just fine. My garden hose water only travels about 8 miles from a mountain lake to me so it's quite soft. If you live elsewhere use distilled water and anti freeze. Always top up with distilled water.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Welp, got it bolted back up.

Drove it to the autozone to get a better clamp and a bit peed out in the parking lot there but, nothing when I got home so I suspect it was just a little excess working its way out. Sounds a bit better, temp gauge works fine, no steam or anything still.

Ill report back after a few days of driving.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.