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New Member and First Time Datsun Owner


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You don't even have to pull the clip, it's on the little arm near the adjuster bolt. Just take the adjuster bolt out, the whole tortion bar will slide to the back with that little arm attached... the front will pull right put of the control arm... hopefully

The splines get rusty....

Get the truck up on Jack stands and let the tire hang so there is no tension on the bar.....

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don't have to pull it? how do I loosen the C clip then? pretty sure I located it. just don't wanna damage it.

 

rust is a real possibility, I have it soaking for that reason. oh and the whole front end is on stands. although I did place a bottle jack to brace the wheel so it didn't drop while I'm under the car. I should just let it do so and free hang?

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The front should be splined, #6 is the main control arm bolt, #57 bolts to the control arm over the bolt, (has the female of the spine) then torsion bar slides in.... but it does look like the clip comes out first to remove the bar... hopefully someone else with the same setup will chime in for you....

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This is for the 521 but basically the same as the 620/720. Re indexing just re positions the torsion bar so you have more room for adjustment.

 

NOTE!

 

ANY height adjusting will alter the toe in setting of your alignment, so be aware that you need to take care of this before driving.

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620 and 521 torsion systems are different. tried using that video before as a reference and it doesn't work. Crash managed to cover it pretty well, just having a hard time getting the C clip off and  I'm using some really small screwdrivers that's normally enough to wedge it upwards to pop off. don't have any of those tools  you see used for snap rings and the like. wondering how to improvise.

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So, I got the c-clip removed from the inside of the rear of the torsion bar. I now have the c clips width in movement. that's it. Do I just beat the piss out of it with a hammer? take a torch to the front end? I've already been liquid wrenching it and using WD40 for about the past 48 hours. I got a pry bar but wouldn't get much of an angle under the truck, even jacked up. I can go up a few pegs on my stands but that's about it as far as the pry bar.

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Never hammer on stuff. The anchor bolts must be fully relaxed. The torsion bar can store a huge amount of energy so it has to be totally at rest. Once the C clip is off I just clamped vice-grips on the shaft and lightly hammered toward the rear and out it came from the front.

 

Be sure you mark the spline position on the front so you know where it was when you started.

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if by relaxed you mean the tire is hanging then yes they are. I have the whole front end lifted, torsion adjuster removed. I'll go jar the front end to see if I can disconnect enough of the rust formed inside the head. I should by all means be able to just pop it out. the rear is connected still so if I pry the handle to the adjuster from the back shouldn't it pull the torsion bar loose?

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there is no moving the bar out unless I take out my whole front axle. the muffler blocks the arm pipe section that can be seen exposed that houses the C clip when fully pushed in. i cleaned it thoroughly so I can freely move it back and forth. the torsion bar still wont budge. knocked on the front bolt that sits against the head of the torsion bar. tried dismounting the holding bracket that keeps the torsion bar in place up front. cant get that out either. from how things are looking space wise and me not being able to slide the torsion bar back with the extra space from the rear arm tells me I have to completely remove it for this to work. impossible unless I cut out my exhaust pipe... so it seems I'm just kinda fucked for now. debating selling my other car to be able to afford to fix this. been a real frustrating past few days stuck at the house tinkering away. and of course none of the previous threads about this help in the slightest thanks to the chode jugglers at photo bucket.

 

in short, I'm officially stumped. gonna adjust pressure on my front tires. tighten everything back up and pray to Hiromu Naruse that this bitch drives.

 

*p.s. bolt #9 is not removable as the center of my front axle overlaps it so there's no room to slip a tool around the nut.

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that it does, but the bad part is before the muffler so wouldn't that just make it loud as all hell? never done anything like this so it raises a few questions. how hard is it to weld a new pipe back on? does this mean I should just cut out the muffler for the next pipe? how do you bend pipe? I have heard its possible with a press I have a 20 ton H frame. 

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