2000subaru Posted September 27, 2017 Report Share Posted September 27, 2017 Great teardown. Looks ike a great start to a sweet project. In case a guy wanted a ballpark idea on a sandblast chassis price, what does something like that run? 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 27, 2017 Report Share Posted September 27, 2017 A complete chassis will run $400 to $750. At least that's what my blaster charges. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stackedfish Posted October 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 About time for another update. The past month has been filled with stripping and painting and forking out cash for new steering components and shock absorbers. Last week i managed to get the fuel tank cross member off the chassis to be copied which is hopefully only going to cost me a box of beer. Gear box is in at the mechanic for assessment and replacement of worn parts. Exhaust system is currently stuck in the chassis as someone decided to add a resonator to it somewhere along the line. New exhaust will be stainless as my brother is a qualified welder and is keen to get involved in the project. I'm thinking either 2" 1/4' or 2" 1/2' to the extractors, whichever he has a surplus of. Next month will involve welding the fuel tank crossmember back on and sending the whole thing off for blasting and undercoating then re-assembly can begin. New gasket kit for the engine is on the horizon. Can anyone recommend a good kit to look out for ? Manuals printed off Master cylinder stripped and re-painted Bit to far gone for a decent repair as far as i'm concerned Waiting patiently for some TLC Messy exhaust job Sexy before and afters 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 Are you going to replace that horse-collar or just leave it off? 1 Quote Link to comment
Stackedfish Posted October 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 Are you going to replace that horse-collar or just leave it off? I'm aiming to have a copy made however, if its to pricey to do so I will look at some alternative way to hold the gas tank on. 2 Quote Link to comment
sebpv Posted October 10, 2017 Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 its been done in the past. Tho i cant remember on which build thread. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted October 10, 2017 Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 Three sides, right? The curved piece can be cut out of flat, then two sides bent to fit, welded in place and ground smooth. I bet a good shop could build that piece in two hours. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 10, 2017 Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 Check the stock pipe size and go 1/4" larger. I'm guessing 1 7/8" or maybe 2". Going to 2 1/4" from a 2" pipe increases the flow by over 25%. Be conservative in pipe increase and use a larger less restrictive 'muffler'. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stackedfish Posted October 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 Three sides, right? The curved piece can be cut out of flat, then two sides bent to fit, welded in place and ground smooth. I bet a good shop could build that piece in two hours. yeah horse collar has three sides with an additional section running across the arc for additional strength. I'm hoping it will only take the shop a couple of hours to fabricate, cant be too difficult for the pro's. Check the stock pipe size and go 1/4" larger. I'm guessing 1 7/8" or maybe 2". Going to 2 1/4" from a 2" pipe increases the flow by over 25%. Be conservative in pipe increase and use a larger less restrictive 'muffler'. Awesome cheers for that Mike just the info i needed. Is anyone else running resonators in their exhaust setups ? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 My stock 710 has what Nissan calls a pre muffler but I think it's really a resonator. Resonators are for the most part an empty chamber with a straight through pipe full of holes. I had one off once and the pipe inside looked like a cheese grater. They tend to absorb/cancel shorter higher frequencies like snap and pop but cannot help but pass the low throbbing tones. This lowers the amount of work the muffler has to do and they can be made less restrictive than running as quiet without a resonator. A fiberglass packed straight through 'Cherry Bomb' type 'muffler' would do the same job but the fiberglass never lasts very long. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 Nissan L motors only really need a single muffler. For a slightly modified sound, run a 2" pipe and a mid to large turbo style muffler and then a full length tailpipe. It should sound great. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 13, 2017 Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 That's more or less what I have. I didn't get the turbo muffler but the one I did get is 1/4 larger than the exhaust pipe ,plus longer and larger all over so I had to modify the heat shield. Elbow down, no tail pipe. It's old man quiet but audible. The original rusted paper thin one I split open with a backfire. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted October 13, 2017 Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 I like tailpipes because they help keep the smell of fumes to a minimum. Also, if on an off road rig, the turndown blows the dust all around and makes it unpleasant for the truck that follows. Not applicable here. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stackedfish Posted February 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 Back into her after a decent break over Christmas. I trust you all had a good holiday. Finally managed to slap together a new fuel tank cross member "horse collar" and get it welded onto the chassis. This week i have been fortunate to have my brother take over on the grinder and welder to begin the patch work on the very few rust gardens in the cab. Should have it all cut out, patched, welds smoothed and ready for some filler next week. Major rust spots were located beneath the battery tray (acid leakage), in the front bumper, in the rear of the cab where the floor meets the walls and at the base of the widescreen. Hardly anything in the grand scheme of things. Had a quote sent through for the cab to be acid dipped and primed but blow me it was just tipping over $2,000. Possibly going to run the gauntlet with a media blaster who has many year experience with classic car restorations but we'll see. Anyways here are a few picks of where we're up to. 3 Quote Link to comment
sebpv Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 fuck me thats ALOT of patching! You doing great! Im amazed by your battery tray area. 1 Quote Link to comment
sebpv Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 Also can you tell me what welder you're using and your setup. I blow through frequently despite following the suggested specs 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 If I had that much room to work I would get lost! LOL Great job on the patch work. I use .023 wire and the 25/75 argon mix in my Miller 185 for cleaner welds on the sheet metal welding on my Datsuns. The .023 wire is a little more expemsive but I find I have fewer blow throughs with it. The spot welds also seam to lay out flatter so less time grinding smooth. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stackedfish Posted February 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 Yeah the acid spillage caused some damage, but we're enjoying ourselves so not to fussed about it. My brother cracked open the sills today to check if the previous repair work was done right and it's looking good so far. Gas tank was stripped today revealing two minor rust holes which will get cut out and Tig welded. Will throw up another photo bomb soon. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stackedfish Posted February 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 Welder is a BOC 170p industrial using argon shield. Really really nice wire feed mechanism in it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 10, 2018 Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 Nice work. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stackedfish Posted February 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 Turns out the sills were in good nick. First photograph shows the worst of it. Sills were rust treated, painted and welded back up. The paint will have burnt proximal to the welds but we're ok with that. Gas tank has been stripped and patched up where small pin holes were found. Primed and ready for chassis paint. 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 17, 2018 Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 looking good 1 Quote Link to comment
Stackedfish Posted April 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Finally got the chassis back from the media blaster. He did a pretty good job and finished it with a industrial acid resistant undercoat. Have been re-assembling the chassis with new steering linkage and shock absorbers. Gas and brake lines have been run too. Do i need to run the fuel evaporation line up the left side of the chassis if I'm planning to to an ERG delete on the engine? Im still 50/50 about the delete, its just the previous owner cut a whole lot of pipes and blocked them with spark plugs, nails and screws and im trying to get it back on the road asap. I have begun the engine disassembly which proved to take alot longer than I anticipated thanks to two little bolts in a very very hard to reach place. Those two little bastards that secure the intake manifold and extractors. I had to walk away from the workshop a couple of times to cool off. Turns out if you hold your tongue right you can get a flex-head socket wrench onto them. What do you guys use to get them on/off ? Boxed wrench ? Just the oil pump to remove now then i can pull the head and check the coolant galleries for cracks. Motor is at TDC so i shouldn't have to time the engine if I follow Hainz's videos (awesome resource BTW. The guy knows his L series). If the galleries are sweet i'll order a full fel-pro gasket kit and possibly new sprocket and chain. My partner and i will be in Las Altos CAL in August for a mates wedding to get a taste of the USA. Is anyone in that area that could recommend a few places that a could of kiwis could visit. 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 12, 2018 Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 1980 standard cab and standard bed 720 gas tank is the same as the 78/79 620 standard cab standard bed tanks. Quote Link to comment
Stackedfish Posted May 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2018 Motor stripped, tested and re-painted. Pistons are in and I'm currently trying to work out the timing using Hainz's videos. 1 Quote Link to comment
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