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$200 for a running L16 + 4 speed


d.p

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Yeah seller said it was.  

 

Does it make sense to even build an L16?  Interested in what I can do with L16 block and maybe a different head?  Not looking for anything crazy just a mild performance upgrade.

 

Or just keep it stock as a spare? 

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Sellers say a lot. They may mean well but are biased. They remember most how well it used to run.

 

It may be a good runner and then this would be a great deal. For a stock L16 in good running state that you can slip into a vehicle and be mobile that is.

 

 

A good re-build can run up to $1,500. if you do all the work maybe up to half that for parts and machine shop charges. ... and you will have a great running.... L16. With Cam and springs, maybe larger valves and a larger carb it might run like an L20B once revved up that is. Or just re-build an L20B. Or re-build a Z22 block with L20B head on it 

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Agree! Friend back in '70 taught me that. 283 with cardboard in front of rad to get it super hot and rev her up an slowly pour a coke bottle of water in. When done, the steam has sucked all the heat out and you have to wait for it to warm up again. Several bottles later all done. Hard to believe the crap that cam out the open headers! The steam cools and cracks the hard deposits right off. I was thinking of driving with the windshield washer hose in the carb but never tried it. Better than the seafoam crap and safer... and cheaper. 

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Not sure what pouring water down the carb is going to do for this engine?  I did see Hainz mention that trick elsewhere.  

 

Figure I can just start with freshening this one up and seeing what comes of my current engine down the road.  Like I said I rarely see any LXX engines anywhere near me so I took the opportunity to buy this one.   

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Yeah seller said it was.

 

Does it make sense to even build an L16? Interested in what I can do with L16 block and maybe a different head? Not looking for anything crazy just a mild performance upgrade.

 

No one will ever say it makes sense to build an l16, it's about hp vs $$....

I can attest I probably could have done a motor swap with more hp for half the money I have invested in my l16. But that's me...

I'm pretty sure the only ones who build the l16 are fans like me of matching numbers.

 

Or just keep it stock as a spare?

Personally I'd build this back as a stock motor and learn how it's done....

Then you swap that into your truck, now you build you matching numbers motor..

Unless your thinking of a frankenmotor or something crazy...

.. if thats the case i would keep your numbers motor safe and mod the one you bought...

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Hone piston walls, slap a STD set of rings in it, new STD bearings, have head rebuilt for $300, Weber carb, Offy Intake, Matchbox dizzy, header, and you will have a nice fun revving reliable motor.  

 

STD? Got part numbers for those rings and bearings?  

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If you are not boring it, use cast iron rings. Molly rings provide a better seal and more power but they need completely round and non tapered bores or they will wear out before seating . Cast iron rings are softer and will wear into an irregular bore that has not been trued up. You may get up to 40K out of this because it's unknown just how worn the cylinders are unless checked. Usually piston to bore clearance is between one and two thousandths of an inch. The most wear is at the top of the piston ring travel and leaves a ridge. This is also the position where compression is highest and cylinder pressures are building and needs a good seal. 

 

You can and should replace the main bearings along with the rod bearings. You can replace the mains  without removing the crank by removing a cap and placing a cotter pin into the oil hole so the round part sticks out. Rotate the crank and the cotter pin will rotate the bearing shell out. Installation is the reverse.

 

Rebuilding an L16 will cost the same as an L20B but there is about 20 hp difference.

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There is a large torque difference between the L16 and the L20b, best upgrade I ever made to date was going from an L16 to an L20b.

The L20b will stomp on the L16 in every way except maybe revving, it will likely hold a higher RPM longer before blowing up, but I am not talking about high RPMs while driving it, I am talking about flooring both of them(7000/8000rpms) and seeing which one lasts the longest, as the L16 unless built will not push a 521 truck down the freeway at 75/80mph except maybe on level ground without a head wind, it might do better with a Weber carb as I didn't try that.

I did try to follow my friends up a mountain road(logging road) and could not do it as the L16 has no torque, I did make it up after going back down to the bottom(3 mile road), and then getting my rpms up and flying up that road around the cliff corners, but that was scary and I decided that was not going to happen again, the next weekend I had an L20b/5spd in the truck and it would go up hills in 2nd gear that the L16 would not go up in 1st gear, best upgrade I ever made to that truck to date and I have made a lot of upgrades to that truck(work truck).

2nd best upgrade I ever made to a Nissan engine was to put a turbocharger on my SD25 diesel engine in my 521 kingcab, it was different vehicle after that, before I was floored or almost floored a lot, now I use only the top half of the pedal.

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Well I don't have access to an L20 so L16 it is for now.  If there was an L20 for sale anywhere near me I would scoop it up.  

 

Pulled the water pump, alternator, dizzy, drained the oil and tried to pull the oil pump and pedestal but neither want to come loose.   How I break the crank bolt loose now?  Impact gun?  Chain is blocked. 

 

Also the back of the crank looks a little beat up..any idea what would cause that? Crash says pilot  bushing.  

 

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Yes that is a $3 pilot bushing. They can be damaged slamming the transmission into place.
 
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Screwdriver and hammer. Make two passes to slit the bushing lengthwise.
 

 

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Pieces fall out. Takes about 20 seconds. There are other ways but I don't have the time to waste on them.

 

The bushing is made of powdered bronze that is crushed together in a press and soaked in oil. It's soft and porous and lubricated for life. Do not grease them it will just collect clutch friction material dust and grind it away. Tap into place with a block of wood.

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No special method is required to get the crank pulley bolt off without the head installed. If you're worried about the engine turning while you're attempting to get the crank pulley bolt out, put a coule bolts in the back of the crank and hold it with a long piece of steel while you run the bolt out, but you shouldn't even have to do that. If you have enough air pressure and a good enough impact gun, that is.

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