f1ndM3aTaco Posted November 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2017 proud to say I finally got the last few plugs for this guy today. 1 Quote Link to comment
f1ndM3aTaco Posted November 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2017 cleaned out the interior part of the tranny housing a little and installed the new throwout bearing. I'm waiting on a day where I can get some buddy over to help me get the engine and tranny over to the car and mate the two together. I also am waiting on a new prop valve before installing the new brake lines. 1 Quote Link to comment
f1ndM3aTaco Posted November 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2017 did get the clutch line bent, flared and ready to go in though. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted November 15, 2017 Report Share Posted November 15, 2017 Sweet sticker on the air filter 1 Quote Link to comment
f1ndM3aTaco Posted November 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2017 I do have question on the vacuum lines now that I've desmogged a changed to a weber. Do I still need that 3-way vacuum switch? I know it used to route somehow to the brake booster inlet that's there on the intake manifold but do I still need that? Quote Link to comment
f1ndM3aTaco Posted November 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2017 I guess what I really wonder at this point is if I need any vacuum line running at all from the dizzy? right? unless theres something on the carb that I'm missing and haven't run a line to? Just cap off the small end of the brake inlet/outlet thing? Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted November 16, 2017 Report Share Posted November 16, 2017 Vacuum line to dizzy is vacuum advance. You want that. Basically the only vacuum line you need to keep unless you have a brake booster, then you want that line too. Your Weber should have a small port for it. Google "Weber 32/36 ported vacuum" to find the port. The brake booster has a big line from it over to the intake manifold. Yes you can remove that 3way valve it's called a thermo switching valve and switches vacuum based on water temperature. Its threaded into a water passage so removing it will lose coolant. Plug it with a pipe thread plug. 1 Quote Link to comment
f1ndM3aTaco Posted November 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2017 That's what I thought but you put it much more eloquently. Wasn't sure if there was something on the carb that I forgot about. Thanks Quote Link to comment
f1ndM3aTaco Posted November 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2017 My other question is on the fuel lines. So from what I can figure the smaller red and black lines are part of the vapor line that went to the carbon canister which I no longer am using. Can I cap it at the end before going to the hard lines or should I remove the soft lines and cap the lines straight from where they come out of the tank (which means removing the check valve fastened to the panel behind the plastic)? Quote Link to comment
f1ndM3aTaco Posted June 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2018 It's probably about time that I post something isn't it? So... after all this She made it to AZ! Quote Link to comment
f1ndM3aTaco Posted June 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2018 ...which means its time to do this all over again Quote Link to comment
f1ndM3aTaco Posted June 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2018 check this goody I picked up for ten bucks at a goodwill Holy shit man! 4 x 15 watts! That's hi-power! Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted June 30, 2018 Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 Big props doing all of that shit in the side yard. Glad to see you got it back together and out to Arizona. If you want to see (semi)custom bumpers, check out my thread. I only have the rear done right now, but the front will be done the same way. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.