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KA24DE conversion issues


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#41 FrankRizzo

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Posted 11 November 2017 - 08:00 AM

That suspension looks really clean, nice.

 

I ended up using a Walker "super turbo" muffler  and a 8" long Cherry Bomb glasspack as a resonator near the tailpipe. To me, it sounds great, no drone and no "farty" sounds like so many ricer cars. It's quiet under normal conditions, but sounds balls deep when I get on the gas.

 

There is a video in my build thread someplace.

.


Proper Capitalization is the difference between: I helped my Uncle jack off a horse and I helped my Uncle Jack off a horse. 


#42 datzenmike

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Posted 11 November 2017 - 10:37 AM

IZDthBM.jpg

 

I would NEVER use urethane or poly bushings on tension rods. They might as well be solid aluminum.The tension rod needs support but also needs free movement up and down at the front. Poly will restrict movement and the tension rod will be forced to flex. It's only a matter of time until metal fatigue sets in and it will snap. They were designed for tension mostly not flexing. Use rubber for this. Better sound isolation too.

 

If there is movement around those bolts they are going to wear the holes oval.


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#43 Spawn

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Posted 11 November 2017 - 08:40 PM

datzenmike, unfortunately the local auto shop that I went to find the bushings for only had polyurethane ones.  They didn't have a set of bushings in rubber that I was able to find.  It was definitely a bit of a pain to get them all installed, so perhaps rubber wouldn't be so difficult.

 

Do you happen to know where I would be able to order a full set of the rubber bushings for the tension rods?



#44 datzenmike

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Posted 11 November 2017 - 09:06 PM

Probably have to make them. The Dime Quarterly has an article for the poly bushings. It involves drilling 6 holes in them to make then more pliable.

 

fmP1NuV.jpg


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#45 Spawn

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Posted 11 November 2017 - 11:47 PM

Probably have to make them. The Dime Quarterly has an article for the poly bushings. It involves drilling 6 holes in them to make then more pliable.

 

fmP1NuV.jpg

You wouldn't happen to have a link to that article would you?  I managed to find "The Dime Quarterly" website, but when I searched for bushings and searched for poly bushings, I couldn't find the article you are referring to.



#46 FrankRizzo

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Posted 12 November 2017 - 09:26 AM

I recall the part number cross references to some sort of Chevy sway bar end link bushings. I bought some, but have not installed yet, I'll see if they are in my parts box in the garage.


Proper Capitalization is the difference between: I helped my Uncle jack off a horse and I helped my Uncle Jack off a horse. 


#47 Lockleaf

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Posted 12 November 2017 - 09:56 AM

You don't really need the article. Take bushings, drill holes to increase flexibility, install.

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#48 datzenmike

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Posted 12 November 2017 - 10:50 AM

It's Volume 2 Issue 2 for the article.  https://doc-08-9o-do...jrmanmiumsf7ln0

 

Drill 6  X  5/16" holes in an equally divided circle half way between middle and outer edge.


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#49 Spawn

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Posted 13 November 2017 - 03:24 PM

It's Volume 2 Issue 2 for the article.  https://doc-08-9o-do...jrmanmiumsf7ln0

 

Drill 6  X  5/16" holes in an equally divided circle half way between middle and outer edge.

 

Thanks datzenmike!  Apparently I don't have authorization to view the page, but I think from your instruction of 6 x 5/16" holes drilled in an equally divided circle half way between middle and outer edge should be enough to do the trick!



#50 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 14 November 2017 - 08:25 AM

I personally don't think that the suspension flexes enough to worry about said pitfalls, but if it makes you feel better...



#51 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 14 November 2017 - 09:06 AM

It is a known failure. Tension rods have been broken :)


Smokin' Joe's House of Datto's

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620 KA24 Motor Mount Swap Brackets

1977 620 KingCab Deluxe KA24DE Swap - Refresh and cleanup
1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

1967 RL411 Station Wagon

 

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#52 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 14 November 2017 - 09:25 AM

Ok, then. I retract my statement.

 

Thanks redeye.



#53 Crashtd420

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Posted 14 November 2017 - 10:24 AM

It is a known failure. Tension rods have been broken :)


So is this in all cases or just people who bump up the horsepower, spirited drivers and/or people who race?

#54 Lockleaf

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Posted 14 November 2017 - 10:46 AM

Drill holes, avoid problem. Don't worry about who it MIGHT get. Just assume you're on the list. Or be super hardcore and build your own rods using inner tie rods from some rack and pinion setup.

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#55 Crashtd420

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Posted 14 November 2017 - 11:07 AM

Drill holes, avoid problem. Don't worry about who it MIGHT get. Just assume you're on the list. Or be super hardcore and build your own rods using inner tie rods from some rack and pinion setup.


Well i guess I'll add to my list of things to do..... better safe than sorry....

#56 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 15 November 2017 - 07:26 AM

So is this in all cases or just people who bump up the horsepower, spirited drivers and/or people who race?

 

 

The way the 620 suspension is designed the tension rod travels in a large oval at the control arm end and is captured at the other end. If you don't allow the captured end to pivot (installing hard bushings) you will eventually fatigue the arm at that point leading to failure. It's not a question of how hard you drive, but how many times you cycle the suspension. 


Smokin' Joe's House of Datto's

gJv38AY.jpg
Member- *Japanese Trucking Association*

**DATSUN FAQ** ~ If ya know it, post it ~ If ya don't know it, learn it ~

ratsun.net rising sun stickers                     ratsun business cards order thread

620 KA24 Motor Mount Swap Brackets

1977 620 KingCab Deluxe KA24DE Swap - Refresh and cleanup
1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

1967 RL411 Station Wagon

 

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#57 Crashtd420

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Posted 15 November 2017 - 08:11 AM

Makes sense....
Just love how the polyurethane ones are marketed as the better choice but clearly it sounds like they are not in this application....

#58 Crashtd420

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Posted 15 November 2017 - 08:28 AM

If anyone is interested carpartsmanual gives 2 part numbers...
56127-25660, 56112-09400....
Nissanpartsdirect Says replaced by....
56112-W5000.... $4each... looks like you may have to buy 10 at a time....
Not sure if actually available or not but they list them still for sale....

#59 Spawn

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Posted 19 November 2017 - 10:21 AM

Ok, the information is decent, but there is no way in hell a 5/16” drill bit is going to work in the tension bushings. That diameter bit is essentially the full width from the center of the bushing out to the edge of it. If I were to drill once in the center spacing I would be splitting the bushing open. This size drill bit may work for the 510 tension rod bushings but definitely not the ones I have for the 620!! My bushings are only 1-1/8” in overall diameter. Take out the 3/8” for the hole in the center and that leaves 3/4” of material to work with in removing 5/8” of material (2 x 5/16”). That would only leave me with 1/8” of bushing split over four points in a straight line (4 x 1/32” of support!). Has anyone used this procedure on a 620? If so do you have dimensions of the bushings that were used?

#60 Lockleaf

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Posted 19 November 2017 - 11:38 AM

So drill 3/16 or 1/4 holes. the dime quarterly article isnt science, just something that worked and got shared. Modify as necessary to fit your needs.

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/